The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project

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Log of the "Stella"

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Ya Mahomet Ya Habeebe
Ya Mohamet
rowing ahead
(Horizontal line across)
Ul lar ho yallah
Hully yallah
(rowing backward)

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Diary 2

Travel to Egypt, 1906-1907

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Voyage of the "Stella". (graphic)
1906-1907. (graphic)

Grandfather, Grandmother, Joe and Corinna, Rebecca and Frances, and Jeanette
arrived in Egypt from Veince (sic) November 4 1906. Some of us stayed in
Cairo. The rest at Helouan, while Grandfather and Joe hunted for Dahabeyah's
up and down the banks of the nile - plenty of Dahabeyah's - but all too dear
for us - at last when Joe had planned to go to Assouan to take the old
"Abou Simbel", we heard through Michael Casira a Greek Antiquity
merchant in Cairo, that a countryman of his one, Georges Spiliotti had
a good boat the price of which came some where near our figures - and
while Joe and Corinna were at Sakkara, spending Sunday with the Quibell's
Grandfather went to see the boat, and telegraphed to Joe, that it was a
lucky find.
The "Stella" is much bigger than any boat we have ever had before
and there is plenty of room in her for us all, with a possible guest -
Rebecca is to have a room to herself opposite Grandfathers, while Frances and
Jeanette have the large room in the stern.
The Greek Spiliottis - is a sharp, hard, miser, and a Greek to boot, a
combination hard to beat, and we didn't beat him - after many interviews
in his shop [opposite Shepheard's] we at last came to an understanding and

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Dowie came Nov. 9
Achmat (strikethrough last letter) (insert) n and Abdalla came Nov 21
Took boat Nov 17 went aboard Nov. 17
Left Cairo 28th

Sofay Dowie 6 L (pound)
Abdul Achman 2 " (all three lines connected with horizontal line like *and food 11 PT per diem for all
Paid 1 month in full to Dec. 21 (third line)
Mahomet 1 "

Abdallah 1 1/2 L (pound) including food

(Line across page horizontally cutting through text "at End")
Mch 21 due men Aharee (?) 6 -
Achmim (?) 2 Dowie 19.5 per diem Selfr (? cut off page)
Mahomet 1 " 11- " food
Adallah 1 1/2 Achmem 6.5 "
Food 330 Mahomet 3.5 "
(horizontal line) Adallah 5. "
10 1/2 + 330 (horizontal line)
3 37 45.5 PT
(Horizontal Line) paid workers 25 to March 21
13 1/2 L (pound) + 37 P.T

Dahabieyh at rate of 430 (strikethrough)(insert above) 60 P.T per diem from Mch 25 to Apl 10 15 da (page cut off - days?)

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the price agreed upon L (pound symbol) 160 for four months *from Nov 17 (inserted above text line) - and Joe and Grandpa
drew up the contract, which was more formal than heretofore, having
various lawyerlike clauses, and items such as "In consideration of" etc etc
suggested by Mr. Blanchard, the kind and very obliging American Antiquity
Merchant, near neighbor of the Greek.
Then the contract was signed and sealed, in the presence of
Blanchard and Mr. Kitikas.. another Antiquity man, in the catters
[illegible] op - impressive spectacle, and then some tiresome days waiting about
[illegible] on the boat, while the Ramadan festival ended and Byuram began, and
[illegible] dawdling ways of the Orient prevailed, and our words of hustle were
[illegible] ied and of no avail - the pump didn't work, three windows, only
[illegible] easted of sashes - two wouldn't open - one wouldn't shut, likewise
[illegible] doors would fly open - or couldn't be made to - the bathtub was a disgrace
[illegible] usual and the pantry fearful - the collection of plates and dishes
[illegible] forks and knives etc was a surprise - fairly complete - and sheets and
[illegible] ter linen more or less abundant, [probably less, as I who write there
[illegible] es, am a man]
[illegible] dining-sitting room was presently fixed up, and made extremely
[illegible] elty and homelike, and very spacious it looks, after those of our other
[illegible] ar little ships - Abou Simbel - Ameer el Wuz, etc.
[illegible] Dowe (accent) Mahommed, the same sweet faced Dowe (accent) came to Cairo on the
[illegible] 9th Nov

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and was present at bargain and finished trade - and with Grandpa
bought the bulk of our stores, while Grandma and Corinna looked afer
the "Fleurent" items, which came to about $160.
Abdulla and Abdulrachman arrived on the 21st and with them came *The dead woman (inserted horizontally in two lines on left margin/page in two lines)
the "old folk's spring beds, and the babies bath tub - we were then
ready to start up the river - but delays prevented, and yet, more
delays [we never got off so quickly though]
At last on Friday *23 (inserted above line of text) we left the bank and waited an hour near *1st day 13 miles (inserted horizontally in margin two lines of text)
Giserah for two of the crew, and about 3.30 reached Helouan, from
whence the voyage was really to commence.
The little people, with Corinna and Jeanette, came on board next morning,
and our departure was delayed, by the non appearance, of the small felluka
with the head, which was to have followed us, from Cairo, with the
second Reis and two more crew. Frances was recovering from a
slight illness, and we were just as well pleased to stay one night, more
within a Doctors reach.
On Sunday, November, 25 we began the Voyage
with the following crew. Hassam X *1st (strikethrough)(insert)3rd (inserted in left margin diagonally in three lines)
Reis Mahommed Inowe (accent on w) Hassam
II Reis Ausmann Saide X
Nefadi Mahomet (Line drawn to connect these words } in a list vertically and says) *left at
Yuseff Ibrahim x Darr-Muass
cook Abdelal Mahomet Kher Dec 16

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We came to anchor at sundown, near Es=Saf, and the next day
Monday 26th, a strong South wind kept us all day lying there in *4th day 19 miles (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines of text)
a poor position - which we bettered towards sunset, by crossing the
river - a fierce rain squall was an unpleasant feature of the

Tuesday 27th. South wind. Joe and Corinna, Rebecca and Grandma, *5th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)
and Dowe (accent), took a long walk, and we spent a lazy day at
Kafr=Amar Remar [illegible]
(switches author) (author =) Dowie found at Cairo a small boy named
Mahomet Abdul Rasull from Shellal whose
uncle had left him alone in Cairo and gone
to Alexandria The boy wanted to go home and
we consented to take him - Later we found
that he could read and write Arabic and was
very smart and quick to learn -
Abdallah put in an appearance one day only
and then took to his bed where he stayed in
the dark until tonight when it was decided to
send him home as far as Luxor with Joe who
went on the night train.

Wednesday 28 Another day with a south wind *6th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)

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Thursday 29th Another day of South wind *7th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)
We are getting rather tired of this place
Only small villages near, and poor place for
supplies - Market day today & (diff symbol) Dowie is up trying to
get some milk etc - The Reis has finished his
awning & (diff symbol) so much is done & (diff symbol) well - In hopes
of a good day tomorrow the day closes ---(one line)

Friday 30th And another day at Kafr-Amar *8th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)
Strong wind storm from the south.
The crew are getting uneasy at the delay as
they are hired for a month only (as we suppose)
and as they mostly live up the river they wish
the extra time after arriving at Luxor, to be with
their homes. Yesterday the writer amused himself
making a box for Joes canvasses (sic) and today
he made Giney's house - of cardboard - but no
sooner was it done than she wanted - front door
chimney - glass windows - steps - bath tub for dolls
etc - truly one want makes another.
Dowie made a trip to Wastor for bread. Rained again
last night.

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Saturday Dec. 1st This day opens with a *9th Day 1 mile (inserted in two lines in left margin)
beautiful sunrise and a light wind from
the South which however soon died out
and the men took to tracking at 7.30 a.m.
12 o'clk The South wind overtook us and at
this hour we find ourself looking out of
a window at the mud bank at which we
are moored only about a mile from our
starting place. *West bank (inserted at end of line in smaller text)
And the day ends under the lea of the
same mud bank -

Sunday Dec. 2nd *8 (strikethrough)(insert) 10th day 1 mile (inserted in left margin in two lines)
Today we made about another
mile - and such is the way of living on the Nile.

Monday Dec 3rd *9 (strikethrough)(insert) 11th day 1 mile (inserted in two lines in left margin)
This day commenced fair with
no wind at all until about 3 P.M. when
a light breeze from the north set in but soon
died out after our start and this night we
are moored - on an island across the river about
half a mile from the start. *West bank (inserted at end of line smaller text)

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Tuesday Dec. 4th And another south wind *10 (strikethrough)(insert over the zero a two) 12th day (inserted in left margin horizontally one line of text)
Its getting monotonous. Dowie walked up
to Rikka (across the river) to send a tel. to Joe
but it was refused as orders were that that
office was "closed to European Correspondance" (sic)
Must try tomorrow at Wasta if we get there.
Mother and the Kids playing cards at my table don't
improve my handwriting.

Wednesday Dec. 5 Day opens with the *11 (strikethrough)(insert the three over the one) 13th day 2 miles (inserted in left margin)
usual South wind - About 9 a.m. it died
out and the men took to tracking and -
we made another mile. *or so (inserted in line) - Rain -
We sent Dowie and Yuseff to Wasta to
try to get a telegram to Joe and find
more bread etc. Expect him back by midnight.
The Reis says that this weather
was expected at Cairo and that Prof
Syce and others were waiting for it
to blow out - We are ahead of them
and saving hotel bills in Cairo, if that is
any consolation.

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Thursday Dec. 6. Day opens with *12 (strikethrough)(insert four over the two) 14th day (inserted in left margin horizontally)
a strong wind from the South - dust
storm and so passes the day.
Dowie returned about 4 P.M. - over a day
waiting to hear from Joe - no answer to
our telegram - don't understand it.
We must wait until we get to Feshen
Hassan was possessed with the "spirit" of
the devil and the others made him go to
sleep in the little fellucca - G'Ma was some
what alarmed but we heard nothing more.

Friday Dec 7 Day opens still and fair with *15th day 15 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally in two lines of text)
light air from the west and ran out anchor several
times along the river and finally put out the sails and
now 11 a.m. making headway up the river.
Mr. Davis's boat is being towed past us
going up - too far off to recognize anyone but
a handkerchief was waved from a window.
We hope the hoo-doo is broken.
We made about 10 (strikethrough)(insert five over zero) 5 miles today and banked a few miles
above Wasta - East bank.

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Saturday Dec. 8. The day opens fair *16th day 46 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally two lines of text)
with a good wind from the North which
kept increasing until it was almost a
gale and which bowled us along finely
and we reached Fechen by 6 o'clk P.M.
We found postal card at P.O. from Joe
mailed some letters and telegraphed to Joe
to answer at Mahagalh

Sunday Dec. 9 Day opens fair but no wind *17th day 19 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally two lines)
Some trouble getting an early start.
10.45 we made a start with a fair wind and
reached Mahaglia at 3.15 where we found a post
card and a telegram from Joe giving us two weeks
later news from him - from thence with a gailing (sic) wind
we fetched up at Sharona about 6 miles farther on -
after dark. Being tired of doing nothing the old
folks went to bed early and so ends this day.

Monday Dec 10 The day opened quiet at Sunrise *18th day 1 mile (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)
A heavy mist set in with air from the South.

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Dec 10. Mother picked up a Coptic friend in a *18th continued (inserted in left margin horizontally one line of text)
white nightgown who escorted her through the
village and visited two of the churches & (diff symbol) a
private house. I and Dowie in the mean
time was interviewing two of the Sheiks.
About 12.30 the men took to tracking
and at present writing are making fair time.
I think the crew have a sheep somewhere about.
1 P.M. stopped tracking and tied up.
The sheep above mentioned turns out to be a fish a
yard long, which one of the sailors caught.
Progress about half a mile.
And here we rest for the night unless a good
wind comes & (diff symbol) if so the reis will put out.

Dec 11th Tuesday No wind all day * 19th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)
Charcoal getting short, not able to find any.
Corinna and Jeanette went to Am. Church
(Presbyterian) this evening, by invitation.
Four watchmen kept guard all night unbeknown
to us and kept G'Ma awake by crackling of their fire.

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Monday Dec 12 Day opened still but at 9 o'clk *20th day 34 miles (inserted left margin horizontally two lines)
with increasing north *west (inserted above line) wind we start.
After working hard poleing and light winds help
about 9 o'clk we made just a few miles
below Minea.

Thursday Dec 13 Fair and still until *21st day 20 miles 172 miles from Cairo (inserted in left margin in four lines horizontally)
10.30 when a good wind came up and
we made a start. 12.30 arrived at Mineah
and as we are out of charcoal, are obliged
to stop and mourn to see the good wind go
bye - and for us wasted - Malish -
Stones are bought by both Crew & (diff symbol) passengers
and at 2 P.M. we are again off for Luxor.
At 7.30 we moored about a mile above
Beni Hassan & (diff symbol) on the west bank

Friday Dec 14. Day opens fair. H.A.U.Co. Str *22nd day 25 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally in two lines)
Nubia went up early this a.m. towing a native boat.
8.45 am. we start tracking - to get around a curve.
Fair wind all day but very crooked river. Made landing about
two miles above Tel el Amarna. At 8 o'clk all a-bed except Jeanette.

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*at village called Miecis Gisis (?)(strikethrough M.G.)(insert) Deir Mues or Daer Muass (written in two lines above striked out text)
Saturday Dec. 15th Mostly a still day *23rd day no crew that would work -still- no wind (inserted in left margin horizontally in six lines)
what wind there was was Southerly
The men refused to track and nothing
was to be done but to wait wait, wait.

Sunday Dec. 16th. Day opens quiet - no wind *24th day no crew that would work Dier Mues no wind still (inserted horizontally in left margin in seven lines)
We ask the Captain to have the boat moved
a short distance up stream to a better place
as this bank we are at is high *and dusty (inserted above line) and hard
to climb. Three of the men absoluely refuse
to work - claiming a money dispute and when
the Capt threatens to discharge them at once
most (strikethrough)(insert) 4 others of (strikethrough) the (strikethrough) others (strikethrough) say they would be afraid to
go on without them and they would leave.
So of our crew of 12 we have the two Reis's
two sailors - cook and our own men *& (diff symbol) 4 doubtful (inserted at end of line)
And here we are, the Reis has gone to a
village some way off to see the Moudir
and see what can be done.
Hope we will leave no trouble but am ready
for it if it must come. Inshallah

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Sunday Continued
Dec. 16 Instead of paying the men 1 1/2 L (British pound) the Moudir *24th day Continued (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)
ordered that they be paid 100 (100 written over 100 to clarify number) P.T. and discharged
which leaves us here short of men to get to
Assiout and for which we blame the Moudir in as
much as the mens time of one month had not
expired. If we get a good wind we will try to
get to Assiout where with the help of a sheep
and a new crew which the Capt. will get we
hope to continue our voyage.

Monday 17 This day opens quiet with light S. to E. *25th day no crew Deir Mues - still little wind - (inserted horizontally left margin four lines of text)
winds and so continues through the day.
This makes 8 days sailing
1 " at Helwan
16 " idle or tracking a mile or so say in all 6 miles
(horizontal line)
25 Idle 11 ds. in succession
I think the days we lie here - no men or they refusing to
work should be deducted from our time at the end if
we so desire.

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Tuesday Dec. 18 One month of boat gone and we are *26th day no crew 5 miles Dier Mues & (diff symbol) Sierout after we had left wind came from north (inserted horizontally in left margin 9 lines)
still at Deir Mues. Dowie and the gov. decide to go
to Assuit and try to get word to Joe - train goes at 11.45
but is 1 1/2 hours late. We arrived at Luxor (strikethrough)(insert) Assuit with a
sailor whom the Capt. sent to get more crew - I doubt his
finding them. We got about 40 letters and several of
Sais's clippings - no word from Joe later than Dec. 5.
Dowie & (diff symbol) I come back arriving at Deir Moes at about
9 P.M. - no Yusseff & Capt. who agreed to meet us there - we
got a boy & (diff symbol) a gaffir who led us a weary journey over
hedges & (diff symbol) ditches & (diff symbol) durra fields & (diff symbol) at last we arrived where
we had left the boat and it was gone - "What shall we do"
We go to the little mud village & (diff symbol) try in vain to wake
up the head man - at last a gaffir unlocks the
Police Station - furnishes us with a light and 3 -
blankets & (diff symbol) sleeping outside the door we go to bed.
I awake at 3 am. Dowie at 5.
5.30 the gaffir gets his daughter to put our large bag
of bread etc on her head - he takes the small packages of canvass (sic)
& (diff symbol) we trot to the station an hour too early.
3 eggs some oranges & (diff symbol) native bread has been our food.

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Dec 18 We go up to Deirout to chance finding the *26 continued (inserted left margin horizontally one line of text)
boat and succeed finally
What the ladies have to say I hear but think
they have written somewhere - Certainly they must have
been worried - I knew nothings about moving the
boat untill after we were in the train for Assuit
except that Dowie said that if "there was a good
wind the Capt would move the boat father up to
a better place & (diff symbol) nearer the Station and that he
would leave word at the telegraph office
Wednesday Dec 19 - Deirout (strikethrough) - Umm El Ousal *27 no crew 15 (strikethrough 5)(insert 8 over the 5)18 miles Umm el Ousel wind fair (inserted in left margin horizontally five lines)
It seems that the wind being good the Reis
took the liberty without cousaltation (sic) to start
the boat with practically no crew - left no word
at the station - but was in hopes to reach Deirout
in time to telegraph us at Assiut of the change -
but unfortunately he got on a sand bar just
before reacing (sic) the shore - which when reached we
rushed up to the RR Station in hopes to get us
out of the Cars there - but he was too late -
a miscalculation and misadventure. 11.15 am we start from *here (inserted under the line)
and make about 18 miles

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Thursday Dec. 20 We left Umm El Ousel *17 miles (strikethrough)(insert above) 28th day bad part of day for crew 2, Reis 1 man & (diff symbol) boy rest of day 2 Reis 4 men & (diff symbol) boy wind fairly good but had to track (inserted in left margin horizontally seven lines)
at 6.30 fair but light wind - we found very
bad sailing - the course was nearly a double (underlined) letter
S. at about 11 a.m. just at the last of bad
tracking place we found Eufordi with two sailors
that he had got at Assuit.
Yesterday while Dowie and the Gov. was away & (diff symbol) the
vessel was sailing it got aground just before
reaching Deirout - all the women on board
helped work - they hauled up the anchor
themselves, tearing & (diff symbol) wetting their clothes but succeeded
To day the Capt & (diff symbol) Yuseff with Dowie & (diff symbol) Abdulachman
towed the boat a long way while the Gov & (diff symbol) Mahomet
& (diff symbol) the cook pulled when needed - we all have worked
our passage so far -
We landed about 1/2 mile below the dam at Assuit
at dusk - The Dahabieyah Dongola belonging to
an Austrian prince came up behind us
After dinner the Gov. changed his shirt & (diff symbol) costume
and with Dowie & (diff symbol) a visiting card made him a call
and was nicely received - He was 12 days from Cairo
He offered any help he had & (diff symbol) even offered to loan me money.

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Friday Dec 21 Early this a.m. all hands *29th day 2 Reis 2 men 2 " went day just below Assuit light fair wind (inserted in left margin horizontally five lines)
took hold and we made a start with the
small sail only finally we reached the
draw of the bridge the big sail being let loose as
the wind was failing - we went through all
night and there on the bank was Joe who
had been chasing us down the river for two
days - we were all very (underlined) glad to see him -
We moored at the bank some way above
the bridge. The two sailors then left us - the
money question being the matter - as is usual.
P.M. Mother & (diff symbol) I went to find the am. consul
to have him witness the deed Aunty sent
us - He had just gone to Cairo for two
weeks - He is called the richest man in
these parts and lives in a fine house
beautifully furnished & (diff symbol) laid out gardens
His brother & (diff symbol) wife who both spoke excellent
English entertained us with coffee cigarettes
& (diff symbol) flowers & (diff symbol) wanted to take their carriage to
give us a drive about the town which we

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29th (strikethrough 9)(insert 1 written over 9) 21st were obliged to decline - we may *29th day continued Assuit (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)
see them in Luxor later as they expect to go there - very nice about helping us to get men
I did not trust the man here to put
spring in my watch - so bought a clock as
Xma present for boats accommodation
and Doe gets his gold watch as promised.
Telegraphed owner of boat this reply
if Capt must get men - Capt Cook left.
[empty line]
Dec (graphic - star) 22 *Saturday (insert above) No men - telegraphed *early (inserted above line) to *30th day 2 Reis boy (strikethrough) & (diff symbol) two men At Assuit fair wind P.M. light a.m. (inserted horizontally in left margin five lines)
owner that matter was serious and for
him to come up at once - We await his
reply - Its too bad that our Consul is
absent just at this time. We have given
owner time to get here at about noon. It seems that
by assistance of Reis of Am. Consul he had obtained
six men but as he did not tell of we supposed it was
at last night when he said he had no (underlined) men - so we telegraphed
great disturbance in the boat - *Capts. (insert) Cook left -
Owner telegraphed - "Why we wanted him - hope it has
been arranged - The Capt. ought (underlined) to have told us

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Dec. 22 Saturday Capt sent to owner for money *Dec 22 contd still to fair wind (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)
by telegraph but owner said it would come by post
new crew will not come aboard untill the money
comes - bread making over the river
Capts. cook was down with his mother who wanted
him to go with us - he refuses & (diff symbol) goes off - "impetuious".

Sunday Dec. 23 Day opens clear with brisk *Assuit 31st day good wind 2 Reis & (diff symbol) 2 men 2 " & (diff symbol) 8 " (inserted in left margin horizontally five lines)
north wind which held through the night
with our good moon and this wind we
could & (diff symbol) probably would have put in a
good run if the Capt - could have had
his way about the money from Cairo.
10.30 *New (inserted at start of line) Crew of 6 men came aboard with
bread - Capts. cook refused to go.
And off we go, the Austrian Baron "Dongola" in
hot pursuit but I venture the statement that we are
to be neighbors to night. But with only one
sail up - they could not go slow enough and soon
passed us bowing & (diff symbol) saluting. Make about 4 miles
an hour by a bee line. 6 o'clk off Geou - 7 o'clk aground

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Dec. 23rd At about 9. P.M. after heavy and laborious *31st day. Cont. 29 miles from Assuit (inserted horizontally in left margin four lines)
pulling & (diff symbol) poleing we got into deeper water when
our line broke and we thought our anchor gone
but by skillful management it was secured - one
of the men stripped and went under for it.
At 11, I retired - the boat under sail - at 2
was awakened by the mens cries, while poleing
2.30 off again - have just passed what I
suppose is the Dongola tied up at the bank.

Monday Dec. 24 6 a.m. finds us quite near *32nd day 6 am 17 miles by night (inserted horizontally in left margin four lines)
Maragha - stuck but not bad, this makes the
fourth time last night.
12.15 The Dongola passed us just above
Sohag amidst great excitement - a native
boat getting in both of our ways.
We kept on until 2 a.m. with a failing
wind a (sic) reached within four miles of Nag Hamadi
*(x across remainder of page)

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Tuesday Dec. 25 Christmas day opens with no *33rd day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)
wind to speak of - we got some milk and
begin to pole *8 a.m. (inserted slightly above line) The children had their stockings
hung and when dressed in their white clothes they
came out in great excitement to see what Santa
Claus had left. They said "where are the other presents
that he had" but on the whole they were very well
satisfied and enjoyed passing to the crew candy
cigarettes etc to the crew who passed the usual thanks
With calm and puffs of wind we kept
in motion most of the day, we had
an exciting time colliding with a
native boat which tried to cross our
bow. The native shouts required wind
enough to have filed our sails if properly
We reached the R.R. bridge at
Nagh Hamandi early in the night
*(x across remainder of page)

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Wednesday Dec 26th Day opens with light *34th day Nagh Hamadi (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)
south wind (our same old friend who
hates to leave us) We have through the
bridge at 8 a.m. & (diff symbol) moor just below the
Dongola. The Baron & (diff symbol) his Sect make us
a call before we are hardly moored & (diff symbol) invite
us to a walk & (diff symbol) to go aboard his boat.
She is a fine one and very comfortable
but would not be large enough for us.

Thursday Dec. 27 Day opens quiet. *35th day Nagh Hamadi (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)
The Baron took a tug this am at 6 - & (diff symbol) left.
We priced a tug to Luxor 15 L (pound) and 10 L (pound) to Kennea and
we told them to go to - --(combined - but longer length making one line) The wind at night fall
was Westerly and we had hopes but it did not
fill the bill so Joe takes the train at 8.52 for
Luxor and we remain to wait for wind.

Friday Dec 28 Day opens light wind S.E. - at 8 o'clk *36th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)
men took rope & (diff symbol) tracked until about 10.30 - Our old
friend Alobi passed us in a tug. He is Captain now and

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is employed at Esna at the building of the new R.R *36th day Contd (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)
bridge there. At 1. oclk a gentle breeze
struck in from the North and "we sailed"
We reached and went around the bad
water. A more serious quarrel occurred
between the two Reis's - I pity our Reis he
is not having a very good time and so far
until this time has kept his temper very well.
We plugged along with a light wind and about
dark Yusseff was sent ashore to buy milk as the
Reis said that if we had a good wind he did not
wish to delay in the morning. We drifted some
way beyond the small village and began to
think that something had happened to him -
the sailors said so and that it was a bad town.
But we sent the boat ashore and after a time
he appeared. Not long after in trying to get
beyond a point of land with light wind the
current carried us off a back and we collided
with a native freight boat which was very close
under our stern - we both met - turned around

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with our sails aback - parted and met again *36 contd near Fan (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)
and the stern outrigger of the ghagger went clear
though our "cook shop" scaring its boss so much as
all hands. We then tied up for repairs at writing 8. P.M.
There seems to be a large village across the
river with perhaps 100 dogs and 5 children to each one
all barking and shrieking - having a fantasiea
perfect bealance (sic). On the whole an exciting day.

Saturday Dec. 29 This day opens fine with a *37th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)
light Westerly wind and as far as it goes is good
for us - By poleing tracking & (diff symbol) the wind we make
a mile or so and at 10 o'clk we are again fast
to the mud on the opposite bank and by good
luck avoided running into any boats but the banks
suffered some. At 9 P.M. we are sailing along
finely and approaching Kenna and hope to make a
good run tonight. So far only 3 Dahabieyahs have passed
us up 2 with steam and 2 down one with steam.
Where is Prof Syce? - We sailed all night with
a light wind and at 6.30 anchored opposite Ballas
and Yuseff went ashore for milk.

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Sunday Dec. 30 Day opens fine but with a light *38th day at Ballas in A.M. Koos P.M. (inserted horizontally in left margin four lines)
wind which we hope will strengthen as the day goes on.
8.30 we start slowly - and by sailing - poleing and
tracking with a failing wind at 3.30 we reach
Koos where we expect to spend the night unless
a good wind comes up, in which case we will
start. Corinna Doe I and 3 men took a long
walk to the station and wired Joe of our position.

Monday Dec. 31st This day opens still with *39th day Koos Till 6.15 P.M. (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)
no wind only a little air from the East at dawn.
9 o'clk we take to the rope & (diff symbol) pull for an hour or so and then
stop at another mud bank just around a corner.
6.15 a huffey West wind put in and we started off
with great delight in hopes of reaching Luxor this year.
Dowie has festooned the upper deck with Suset branches
& (diff symbol) palm leaves so it looks like a German beer garden
Wind failing we came to achor (sic) at 8.30 - in hopes. -

Tuesday Jan 1. 1907 Light Easterly wind 8 am started - sailed *40th day between Koos & (diff symbol) Kigam (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)
& (diff symbol) poled & (diff symbol) tracked 10.30 got into a "hook" of course

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Tues. Jan 1, 1907 Contd and had to put back *40th day Contd (inserted horizontally left margin two lines)
Backing and filling all day and trying to get
over all the hooks in the river, with occasional
puffs of wind from the west at 6 o'clk we are tied
up temporally (sic) at the shore in sight of Luxor and
by guess .4 miles distant - no milk, whiskey, chicken
or any thing else provided for dinner and we
are all pretty huffey and generally disgreantled (sic).
Our upper deck is all festooned for the day and it
will be a past member when we get up.
After the moon arose we had an East wind and
tried it again but the wind soon died out and
we only crossed the river and came to anchor
We have done our d-st but can't fetch it

Wednesday Jan 2 Day opens, little air Southerly *41st day 2 Miles North Koraa Luxor (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)
we commence to track about 8 a.m - all hands
except Eufordy who has gone to Luxor for bread for
crew & (diff symbol) I guess tobacco for Reis.
About 11 a.m. Joe & (diff symbol) Eufordi came aboard and
soon after we moored at Luxor & (diff symbol) the voyage up is *finished (inserted below end of line).
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I wrote Mr. Sherhoht Jan 7
Joe Do Feb 3 (strikethrough)(insert) Feb 16th
Notified Reis Feb 1 that we leave 26th for Cairo
Jan 3 commenced taking milk at Luxor
" crew left Pumpelling came
" Jeanette left for Alexandria
" Donkeys of Hassan
" /1 Abdalla came
Feb. 2 2 men left only Reis left (last four words strikethrough)(insert) stopped work & (diff symbol) away (finished insert) on board
3 " Yusef & (diff symbol) Nefardi left boat for good
4 " only Capt.
5 Capt & (diff symbol) 1 man
6 do do
Thursday 7 do do
8 2 men came PM

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Section: The Return

Tuesday Feb. 26 At 2.00 (strikethrough)(insert 3 over 0)2.30 we cast off and *1st day to Keass 25 miles (inserted horizontally left margin 3 lines of text)
with a light South wind we started, leaving
Joe - some visitors and the rabbitts disconsolate
behind us. A gaffir called *and (insert above line) for watching
the boat asked for backsheef (sic) but as it was the
first time I had seen him I did not respond to
his desires - Jeanette left us this A.M. early thanks be (underlined).
As the Reis wishes to stay a day at Nag Hamadi
to make bread he rowed till about 11 P.M. making
about 25 miles and put up opposite Kuss

Wednesday Feb. 27 Day opens still and warm *2nd day to Dishner (inserted horizontally left margin 2 lines of text)
As we overtook him last night he passed us
just as we started *about (inserted above line) 8 o'clk no milk to be had.
After rowing an hour or so a good South wind came
up and we sailed to Kauna (12 o'clk) when wind left us.
6 P.M. we passed Dishner - Sailors sent for milk.
7-30 we tied up at bank a mile or so below.

Thursday Feb. 28 Left the shore at 6 1/4 - no wind. *3rd day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
11 o'clk at Naghamadi.

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Friday Feb 29 (strikethrough)(insert) March 1 Left. Nag Hamadi at 6.15 am. *4th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
Crew brought the bread aboard and with a
gentle South wind we wind our way.
No answer to tel. to Mr. Weigall.
12.30 a few (inserted 3 and then strikethrough) miles South of Balliana a Strong
North wind took us to the bank where we
now are and remain over night

Saturday Feb 30 (strikethrough) (insert) March 2 Opens fair light North wind *5th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
Cast off at 6.45 & (diff symbol) proceeded across the
river where a strong gust of wind put us ashore
after much noise we got off and not being able to go
on we came to anchor at 8 o'clk, where we are
2.53 Dowie & (diff symbol) I walked over to Abou Coucha?
and took train to Balliana - telegraphed to
Joe etc got answer and returned to above
place where by orders left, if they could the
boat was to find us, it was well as we gained
a few miles and saved my old bones a long
and bad walk - thanks be -

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Sunday March 3 Day opens quiet and we *6th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
take the oars at 6 a.m. in two hours we reach
Balliana and proceed. 9 o'clk a strong North
wind comes up and to avoid going ashore on the
wrong side of the river - as usual - we come to anchor
in mid-stream a mile or two below Baliana (sic).
Quite a sea came up and the Reis upsail and
made for the other side of the river - 1st the main sheet
broke - then the felucca went adrift then the shore
line parted all which seemed natural -
I know of one (underlined) good rope on this craft

Monday March 4 Day opens quiet - at 5 am *7th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
We started and by good luck reached
Girga just before the strong North wind
came up at 10 o'clk. We then all went
to the Station and met Joe and Mrs.
McDonald who is to be our guest to
Cairo. After Lunch Corinna Mrs. McDonald
Dowie 4 sailors & (diff symbol) myself went across the river
and up the hill to see some old tombs.
*Well I am glad I went (inserted below last line of text)

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Tuesday March 5 - Fair day with light North *8th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
wind - We started about 5 a.m. and after
a good but uneventful day we made 27 *27 (inserted above numerals in text) miles
and moored at Sohag just above Mr. Davis!
The men worked so well that we gave them the
money to buy a sheep - hoping that they will be
strengthened for more exertions.

Wednesday March 6 The (underlined) Sheep arrived. *9th day Je(circumflex accent)ma (inserted horizontally left margin 2 lines of text)
This day opens quiet - we started about 6
by 9 o'clk a South wind helped us along
The Bedouin started before us and keeps
just ahead perhaps a mile.
This PM the wind failed us but by hard rowing
at moored on the West bank about 33 miles
from Sohag. One of our sailors took a bad cold
at Girga and has been ill ever since. We
must send him home at Assiut if he gets no
better. Asked for brandy which is unusual

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Thursday March 7 Day opens quiet - we *10th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
start about 6 a.m. Mr. Davis earlier and
having reached a place last night where the
water was swifter he has gained upon us.
The German Baron de Force(underlined)(?) Dahabeiyah Dongola
passed us down towed by A.A. Barge Str Arab.
We stopped a while (by wind) at a small Arab town
Baru Karus and then ridged (sic) out & (diff symbol) drifted for a mile and
then put up at noon for good. Strong North wind.
Our sailor man seems to be better.

Friday March 8 Day opens light wind from North *11th Day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
We start rowing about 5.30 - blown ashore - get off
bang along - about 10 Dowie goes ashore to walk
to Abou Tig for bread - then we get a bad
Stuck (underlined) - pull - have - haley haley - ropes and
blocks break - finally get off and drift towards
A.T. (graphic) then on until 8 30 we passed Mr. Davis's boat
and moored on the opposite side of river and about
7 miles from Assuit -

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Saturday March 9 Day opens fair - we start *12th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
just after Mr. Davis at 6 30 four and arrive at
Assuit about 10 - pay visit to Am. Conesul (sic) - execute
papers and take carriages to the bazarr (sic) where we
bought several things and more on coming back
to the boat. The Reis concludes to go home to
Cairo as his eyes are in very bad shape and he
needs immediate treatment *He does not go (inserted above the line) - We go through the
barrage at 4 oclk proceed a few miles

Sunday March 10 Start about 6 - no wind - *13th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
about 8 (next numeral written over)(insert) 9 - wind from South which freshens to
Strong which bowled us along to 3 or 4 miles
below Moufalut where a sharp turn in the
river makes the wind a side wind and we
moor *10:30 (inserted above line). We (underlined) think it poor judgment as by the
rope and pushing off from the shore we ought
to fairly easy get around the point of perhaps
a mile then find a good wind to Deirout.
11.45 we work across the river - the rope breaks before we get
away from bank - old boat sound on bottom I think but leaky
on top - ropes & (diff symbol) blocks old and rotten. 1 30 start rowing the *wind having abated (inserted below line).

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Sunday Mch 10 *Contd (inserted above line) we get round point & (diff symbol) wind *13th Contd (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
hauling to West we are forced to anchor in Mid Stream
4 o'clk we row to & (diff symbol) make fast to Bank in a gale.

Monday Mch 11 Start at 7 drift a mile wind strong (stop 9 erased at end of line - or written over pencil with pen as appears in multiple places throughout this paragraph) *14th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
Stop at 9 and wait till 1 15 row till 6 not a long
trip in distance.

Tuesday Mch 12 Start at 6 quiet - rowed down *15th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
past Deir Moies and at 12 o'clk stuck when quite
near the landing at Lil Amarna, soon after get
off - eat open lunch and all but mother take donkeys
minus stirrups & (diff symbol) bridles and hardly any saddles and visit
the North tombs on returning visit the Palace which
being near the boat Mother and Dowie visited - had a
call from the Head Man who wanted the usual
Medicine -

Wednesday March 13 Start at 6 - drifting Joe & (diff symbol) Dowie *16th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
*left at Malari for train (inserted between lines)
arrived at Rhoda 2 PM went to station & (diff symbol) saw Joe & (diff symbol) Mrs. W
Go-By started on at 4 - men got a sheep arrive at
Beni Hassan at 7 25 at upper landing

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Thursday March 14 Start at 6 get early *17th day Beni Hassan Samalut (inserted horizontally left margin 3 lines of text)
breakfast. Mother kindly stays with kids the rest
take donkeys minus bridles & (diff symbol) stirrups & (diff symbol) with the old Sheik
for guard - visit the N. tombs & (diff symbol) Rock Temple return to
boat & (diff symbol) start at 10 30 with gentle air from the South
Arrive at Minea about 2 15 and found Joe
& (diff symbol) Mrs. W. left Miss McDonald - lost 2 hours of
good wind & (diff symbol) proceeded to Samalut for the night

Friday Mch 15 Start at 6 - rowing - about * 18th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
9 run aground - get off and the wind blows
us ashore where we remain all day watching
native boats - tugs & (diff symbol) dahabieyh, get stuck & (diff symbol) off.
We are near the Convent of Gebel el-Ter (accent e)
[empty line]
Saturday Mch 16 Day opens fair - start early *19th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
Soon after a gentle breeze from the South
11 30 blown ashore near (18th day up) Coptic church place
of & (diff symbol) on again - 4 30 another start Joe buys 2 water jars

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Sunday March 17 Day opens still - we *20th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
make an early start rowing soon a fine
South wind but just below Farchen we get
aground with a lot of natives - ropes break - we
pull & (diff symbol) hawl (sic) for about 3 hours finally at 1 we get
off & (diff symbol) with a fair wind seek for other shoals etc at 2
Abd (strikethrough)(insert) We stop at Bibba for rest and to enquire (sic) the way
At 4 we start again & (diff symbol) pass many "stuck boats" and haul
up at 7 a few miles above Beni Souif

Monday Mch 18 Day opens fair - rowing *21st day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
At opp Beni Souiff ran aground - looked
serious for a while but we got off and a
fair wind coming up we made good progress
until 11 15 the wind forced us ashore on E. bank
where we remained till 5 15 the wind seemed fair
but the Reis was afraid (?) to go on before

Tuesday Mch 19 Day opens quiet - start 6 - *22rd (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
Meet Str with Mrs. Gayley & (diff symbol) family with letter introduce
them from Mr. McVey - mutual calls. At 3 30 we moored at place
we left on 15th day up

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Wednesday Mch 20 Started early - went *23rd day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
out to middle of the river and then put
back - strong North gale all day.

Thursday Mch 21 Started about 4 15 a.m. *24 night - at at (sic) Ayatt (inserted left margin 3 lines of text)
being out of bread the crew are trying to get
to some town where it can be procured.
9 o'clk went ashore after making 3 or 4 miles waited hour or so
put out into the stream & (diff symbol) then went back - gained 10 ft. or so.
Two men went to next town in hopes of getting bread after
getting 50 P.T. out of us. At 4 PM we start & (diff symbol) go till 7.30

Friday Mch 22 Day opens still - start at 6 *25th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)
by 7 Light wind from South 11 30 put Joe ashore at
Bedrasheen - at 3 30 we anchor in front of the
draw of the new bridge at Cairo which they say does
not open until 10 tomorrow. 111 minutes after this
writing the draw opened - we went through
and moored a mile s. of our old place but
are promised a better place tomorrow and
the Voyage (graphic) ends at 4.20 --------(single line)

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Section: New Crew Cook
Hasseen *(Sopadan Stay-went)(inserted at end of line) Ali Tufik
Seliman Fara (strikethrough)
Hassan Faragala (s)
Halleel Mahomet stay went
Abdu Fadil stay
Aburiah? (each letter individually underlined) (this name and name above marked together with {})
Abdu en Niem Sad ed deen

1st Reis Mahomet Enoye
2nd Reis Hassen Ayne
[empty line]
(Horizontal line across page)
Section: Old Crew
1st Reis Mahomet Enoye
2nd " Ausman
Abrahim Hassan - Yellow Turban
Saide Hassan - One Eye Red T.
Yuseff Mahomet - tall
Eufardi Mahomet - dark
Abdelard Toofeek cook
(Horizontal line across page)


Joseph Lindon Smith


American Archives of Art







Joseph Lindon Smith, “1906-1907 Travel to Egypt,” The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project, accessed May 20, 2024,