The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project

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Diary 1
Travel to Egypt, 1904-1905

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The account of the short voyage of the dahabeah "Aboo=Simbel"
from Elephantine island - [Assouan] to Luxor. Winter 1904-5
and the time spent there, on the West bank of the river.
The "Aboo=Simbel" left the sand bank, where she had laid two weeks
or more on Saturday afternoon. December 17th a little after two o'clock
and left "Mr. Joe" and the owners of the boat and the black bunch of
wives and mothers of the crew - standing there on the bank.
Wind strongly blowing up the river.
The ships company and crew are as follows.
Father and Mother Smith, Mrs. Joe - "Rebecca" - "Tiny" and
Jeannet, Yacirrty - and "Mr. Joe" [to join later.]
The crew.. Dragoman Dowe (e accent) Mahomet.
Captain Ali Sadi Steward Abdalla Mahomet.
1st mate Alobi Cook Abdu Rahman
2nd mate Esia Captain's Cook
Sailors Margan Seeam
Osmayn took Yasenes place (all four words underlined)
Shaihi Pater on joined at Luxor
Mahomet in the "Rebecca and Frances" by Yaaseen

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At about sunset, the "Aboo=Simbel" had successfuly (sic) crossed
the river, and lay on a sandbank close to the "St. James Hotel"
about a three minutes walk from her starting place at Elephantine
and there she was visited by Mr. Joe - who came to say goodnight
and wish them a pleasant journey. On a great pile of
boulders, which jut out into the stream, at this point, he sat,
and saw his home and household, float away out of sight
and into the dimness of early night. Little voices from the small
enclosed deck at the stern, shouting out goodnights.
When the deserted one, clambered back to the bank, from his
last sight of the floating home, he was surprised to see
the small boat, landing one of the crew, with all his belongings
in a roll - a sick uncle had inconsiderately arrived from Cairo,
and this boy, who was a very nice willing fellow, was obliged to
give up his place, in the dahabeah (a underlined).
The family were surprised, at the choice made, to fill this place
in our crew. - "Gummy" came aboard, roaring drunk -
our old friend Ousmaine, of Ameer el Wuz days.
His advent closes the day, as the opposite bank, was reached
and tied to, and Assouan's lights twinkling hardly two miles
Spent the night, below, the Tomb of Gnanneld.

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We found out later on that
Ousmaine drinks the ------- (connected line pointing to wine on following page)
methylated spirits.

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Left our moorings at five oclock and made slow progress, for
an hour, and then a long wait was made, which was inexplicable
for a time. At length the small boat appeared, with Mahommed
and Ousmaine - we had been waiting for their return from
Assouan, where the Carter had gone, with Reis Ali's permission
to leave money [paid him in advance by the Reis] with his family
Little Mohammed had been told to go with Ousamaine, and not loose (sic)
sight of him, but had misunderstood directions, or had been eluded
by Gummies slyness. - for the wine that is red, had been looked at
and freely partaken of, and the poor old sot, came alongside, once
more in splendid spirits.
Mahommed was pounded for his failure to guard Ousmaine better,
while he was scolded and his turban pulled off - disclosing the
remains of the thirty five piasters, which he had started off with.
Gummy certainly was not making a good impression.
After throwing away a bottle, secreted in the small boat, the dhabeah
was once more *put (inserted above the line) in motion. Gummies voice turned to a high key, in
the singing.
A bad head wind made progress impossible, and about two oclock we landed
and made fast at a small island - named Kooban - here we spent the afternoon
and night. I walked upon its sands by moonlight, and enjoyed the
ill wind which drove us to that haven.

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Made an early start, and at noon reached Kom Ombo twenty six miles
from Assouan. Landed and saw the temple and an hour later resumed our
voyage - and met and saluted a dhahabeah and an Anglo=American Steamer.
Ousmaine perfectly sober.
In the afternoon about sundown came to Fars, and there tied up for the
night, and walked by *a (strikethrough)(insert) splendid moonlight after dinner.

Started about five this morning, and went all day, stopping at seven in the
morning at Gebel Silsileh, where we saw the temples or chapels, and
afterwards resumed our way.
A strong head wind blew all the afternoon.
At Sunset we had reached Silwa - where we spent the night.

Started earlier than ever before, from Silwa - this morning, and reached Edfou
about two, *having tracked for some hours (inserted above line of text) passing magnificent scenery on the way.
The two Grandparents went off on a wild goose chase, in the small feluka,
over to the other bank, to the Railway station, hunting for "Mr. Joe" who it
was thought might possibly be there waiting. *A sheep was promised the crew. (inserted below line)

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When they returned empty handed, son less, the temple was visited before
darkness came down, and four police with lanterns appeared as we were
leaving who wondered at our visiting the temple in darkness, and tried to
illuminate its grand proportions by magnesium lights, but failed entirely in their
endeavor - Had a Fantasia tonight - Gummy to the fore -
They advized (sic) Dowe (accent on e) that we needed two watchmen for our boat, because Edfou was
such a bad place - we don't know how many watched over us, from the bank
that night, a shilling was all the vigil cost us however.
Telegram from Joe, saying to expect him Friday.
Sheep not bought. Dowe (accent on e) pronouncing it too dear. - the feast postponed.
Next morning after an early breakfast, we again visited the temple, 242 steps
up the great Pylon and about nine oclock went aboard, and left Edfou.
but an hour afterwards our old enemy the North wind proved too much for us,
and Edfou, remained in sight all the rest of the day, until about six oclock
we started again, and went all night. or (strikethrough)

About nine oclock reached El Kab, and went at once across the desert to see the
tombs, after lunch - sent to meet Joe - men returned in the felouka about four
without him. The only afternoon train from Assouan having failed to bring him
to the station of Mahomed -
Most of the afternoon after their return, spent in spirited conversation, as to what we

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had better do.
Decided to wait at El Kab - until the next day.
Ate up the grand feast prepared for the home coming son and husband, and about
ten thirty the Grandparents having just gotten into bed, a feeble yell for
"Dowe" (accent e) startled the stillness of the night, and Mr. Joe slid off his donkey and
boarded the "Abou Simbel" followed by two night watchmen with guns *and a donkey boy (last four words written above line) - bearing
also two beds - a rocking chair, a bag, camp chair, three canvasses and an
This is Joe's story.
The station master at Assouan sold me a ticket to Edfou, saying that El Kab, was
nearer that station than Mahomed, so I left the train there and beds, rocking chair,
and the other impedimenta followed, and I watched the train go off, and then
asked a donkey boy, if there was a dhabeyah at El Kab - and how far off was
El Kab, - The station master told me I should have remained on the train
as Mahomed was nearer. My only piece of good fortune was, that there happened
to be an extra freight train, which was expected in about two hours, and this
I waited for, waited 5 hours for it, and found myself at a deserted,
desolate, hamlet, at eight oclock - and after a long wait while donkeys and
men were found and waked up, by the station master, I again started on my
quest of my family.
An hour's ride, in the splendid moonlight, during which time a large owl
so startled the donkey with the beds on him that he sat down outright, brought
me at length to a dhabeah - but not mine - but Mr. Summers (sic) Clarke.

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This was a blow indeed, as the day had already been full enough of disappointments
and fatigue - but there was nothing to do but retrace our steps, which we did
and at 10:35 I arrived, as already noted above.

Started off early and drifted delightfully all through a perfect day. Through
fine scenery, with far away distant mountains - the mountains of Thebes, and Luxor.
About seven oclock we reached Esneh, and the two mothers filled a pair of
stockings with Christmas presents for the little people tomorrow morning.

Santa Claus comes to dahabeah's, as well as to homes with chimneys, and we
all enjoyed the opening of the stockings stores. Grandma's offerings were in
perfect taste and wisdom of years experience, was shown, by pairs (underlined) of things, so
that envy could hardly appear to man that day - eyes in one little head however
looked with even greater interest on sisters share, than her own - while the baby
would not let go one gift to search for and open another, as she feared it was
the old trick of parents, to substitute one thing for another.
Jeanette gave the babies charming little amber necklaces, from Constantinople
which they will appreciate some day.
The entire family went ashore, and, followed by many citizens of Esneh, visited

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its famous temple and attractive baazars.
A sheep was bought, and at length the promised feast is in sight.
"Gummy" came aboard this morning, with a surprising gait on - which he
attributed to a wounded foot - he was put out of light, but subsequently
made his escape and made a second addition to his spirited condition.
We sailed soon after luncheon - and waited in mid stream, while Gummie was
sought for in the town, and at length brought to us in the small boat, in
a very glum frame of mind, refusing to take an oar - as soon as he got aboard
He was rudely thrust below the deck, and called bad names.
A wonderful sunset ended Christmas day on the Nile, and a full moon soon
continued the beauty of travel in this fashion, and our crew kept the boat
in mid stream through the night, and only stopped when Luxor was all but
in sight.

Drifted down to Luxor in two hours this morning, and tied up to the shallow
bank on the Thebes side of the river, and made arrangements for a long stay
- pitched the tent on the sand - put out a permanent gang plank, etc etc. and
went to Luxor for mail.
Three Hoopers were found, and we took tea with Ellen at the Luxor Hotel
and met Mrs. Dr. Saunders, to whom we had a card of introduction from Dr. Sandwirth
The Ameer el Wuz, he's near Cooks landing on the Luxor side and on our side
a big dahabeah named the "Dongola" is moored near us, on the sand bank.

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*The cook made two amusing ibis
decorations out of napkins - for the table.
see - photograph.

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Ellen Hooper and her two sisters came to luncheon to=day.
Great preparations were made by Dowe (accent on e) and the cook, and everything went off very
smoothly, and our guests who had never been before on a dahabeah - seemed to greatly
enjoy themselves - The sailors gave a great fantasia afterwards, and then
took the ladies over to Luxor, in the small boat.

Joe spent the morning at Karnak and picked out subjects enough to keep
him busy for weeks.
Mother and Dowe (accent on e) interviewed the dealer in Antiquities whose wife milks cows,
but the result seemed rather vague, and indefinite, and we don't know much
more about the great milk question than we did before, and I daresay the
great "bear brand." is the one bright star in our milky way.
Work has been begun by the painter, at Luxor temple, a charming head of
a priest of Mut.
Mother sat and watched, and gave valuable advice, and made some
measurements with her sunshine. Afterwards she and the painter roamed around
in the temple and were surprised by two little bints in red coats, with a
mother, and Abdalla and Shay in attendance.
Their study of Egypts antiquities is most profound.
Mrs. Olgilivie called this afternoon at the boat and found Corinna and Grandpa.

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THURSDAY DEC 28 (strikethrough)(insert) 29
A cold, fine morning.
The painter went donkeying to the Ramesseum and Medinet Habu this morning
and found more subjects to paint.
Corinna and Ellen Hooper also came over on the same excursion two hours later
and called on Mrs. Quibell, who had just returned from calling on us at the
boat. Ellen Hooper stayed to luncheon, with us.
The painter worked at the Luxor temple and at 4.30 joined Grandma and
Corinna at tea with the Saunders at the hotel.
The children had made a formal and well behaved call, earlier in the afternoon
and with Dowe (accent e) and the cook in their best clothes, attracted considerable
Grandpa and Dowe (accent e) brought over from Luxor this morning, quite a lumber supply,
which is to be used, in making a contrivance, for the ease and comfort of the
painter, and the safety of the oil pictures which are to be painted at Karnak.

The painter went this morning to Karnak and presented Maspero's letter of
introduction to M. Legrand, the director there, who was very pleasant and desirous of
being of any service he could.
Joe asked to have a staging put up, so he could get a good position to do some
of the reliefs on the exterior of the sanctuary, and M. Legrand instantly called

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Rebecca said this morning
"I have just said good morning
to Mrs. (underlined) Reis Ali" which is her
first remark concerning the dress
of the Egyptians

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an Arab and gave the directions, he promised to show us over the recently
excavated portions, soon - where he found so many fine things last Winter.
A quiet morning at the dahabeah, children playing with Grandpa in the sand
At twelve thirty we all met at the Luxor Hotel to lunch with the Hooper girls
a very festive occasion, with charming flowers on the table, and a very good
lunch indeed.
Mr. Ogilvie leaves Luxor to-day for Cairo, and is good enough to go to Spiros to
order me some more canvas for the Karnak work.
After luncheon - the painter went to Luxor temple to paint on his Priest of Mut,
and Grandma and Grandpa and Corinna were invited to go to Karnak with
the Hoopers - Grandma in a chair with porters.
The babies and Jeanette came over to the hotel to meet them on their return
but sunset time approached and they crossed over with Papa to the dahabeah
and welcomed them uproariously from the windows of the sitting room.
Apple fritters to-night, a great success.
Dowe (accent e) comes in every night directly after dinner is over and Abdalla has
cleared off the table, - and gives an account of the day's expenses to Corinna
who is keeping sum of all the expenditures of the trip
Rebecca sits up on the sofa before dinner and eats her supper at the little
shelf, Grandpa put up for the lamp and the goolahs, and just before we sit
down to the table, Tiny comes in to kiss us all good night chuckling
and gurgling with pleasure. Both babies go to sleep at once, and sleep
splendidly well.
The big dahabeah, Dongola - left this morning for up stream.

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The artist of the family, went to Karnak this morning as usual, on donkey 47,
and the box father made, was taken on the heads of two boys, at the same time
Corinna was called for by the Hoopers about 10-30 and went over to the Quibells
where she and Ellen lunched, and afterwards went into some recently opened tombs,
of the Queens - with Mrs. Quibell a most delightful experience.
They afterwards took tea there and arrived back at the boat at sunset.
Joe worked again in Luxor temple in the afternoon having mother for company, and father
part of the time.
The children's bath tub came this morning, so that they will no longer have to take
their bath in the pan, for washing dishes.
Just before dinner, while Abdalla was setting the table, the crew began the darahbouka
and singing, and Rebecca, in her nightdress came running out, and danced charmingly,
in perfect time, on the deck, to the great enjoyment of the sailors, as well as the family
It is one of the prettiest sights to see the sweet little fairy dancing there in the semi-
darkness - surrounded by the dark skinned crew. She and Shaihi danced together
Reis Ali and father between them fixed up a swing - made out of a
milk can box, two oars and some roap (sic), and the Reis spent a good part of the
morning swinging both children
The big Cook, dahabeyah Ammon Ra, came up the river this afternoon, and
anchored quite near us, on the sand bank.
Beautiful sunset tonight, with cloudy sky.

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A still, windless day, partly cloudy, and warm.
Joe painted at Karnak in the morning, walked there, and back, for variety in less
than half an hour each way.
After a very big mid day meal - [in honor of the day], went over to Luxor again, and
at 5, had finished the picture of the priest of Mut, in the temple - and went with
Grandpa to an antiquity shop, to see a piece of hieroglyphic, which we saw the
other day, and had been bargaining for - our repeated offer - of one pound (L British pound sign),
was accepted, and we came away with the prize under Joe's arm - a present from
Corinna - [the asking price was two pounds].
The steam dahabeyah - of the Monds arrived to-day.
Corinna took both babies over to Luxor hotel, this morning to say good bye to the
Hoopers, who left for Assouan, at 2.30 by Post boat.
Grandpa made a sleigh to=day, for the babies, out of a soap box, barrel staves
and brains - and Joe and Shaihi dragged them about in the sand at sunset time,
great fun for everyone.
In the dusk, we saw a big dahabeyah stealing up, through the mist, which
has come at sundown, the last few nights. Dowe (accent e) says she belongs to Prof Sayce.
The other big boat the Ammon Ra, left this afternoon for Assouan.

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Clouds, sunshine and very hot to-day
Work went on at Karnak this morning, and a small head in sunlight, in the interior
walls of the marble sanctuary was finished
A water color was begun, in the afternoon, in Luxor temple, a figure of Rameses.
Corinna and Joe went and (strikethrough)(insert) to make a call on the Mond's this afternoon, and found them
both aboard their boat.
Dowe (accent) received a telegram today from Amam, [his brother at Philoe (oe combined letter)] saying the little
boat, we sent for, had been sent, and we shall begin to look for her, on some big
felouka, tomorrow or the day after.

The painter went as usual to Karnak, and worked all the morning.
Shaihi decorated the Theban side of the river, with the wash - which made a gay sight
flying, from our wash lines.
Mr. Mond called this morning with his little girl Frieda, who made friends with our
kids at once
In the afternoon Grandmother Corinna and Rebecca went on donkeys over to call on
the Quibells, and found them both at home - it was the little girls first real donkey
ride, and she did very well, and enjoyed herself greatly.
Work went on at Luxor temple as usual, after luncheon
Grandpa subscribed to the library, at Luxor Hotel this afternoon and took out two
books. - ordered a new galibeah for Shaifi this morning.

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K (graphic) means Karnak, and L (graphic) means Luxor temple, and these two letters will
hereafter, be used in this journal, when the painter has worked in those temples.
The canvas, ordered by Mr. Ogilvie in Cairo, came this afternoon, at any rate we
got it to-day, so tomorrow the painter can begin his large picture, of the procession of
priests, on the sanctuary of Philip at Karnak.
Corinna and Joe, took tea with Prof Sayce on his dahabeyh this
afternoon, and returned to our boat later to find an Arab caller - a teacher from the
American Mission School - come to make arrangements about giving Mrs. Quibell and
Corinna lessons in Arabic.
The little Mond girl came this morning with her French maid to play with our babies.
Grandma none the worse for her long donkey back excursion of yesterday, went over to
Luxor temple and had it all to herself this morning while Dowe (accent) went to market.
Grandpa goes with Dowe (e accent) on these occasions and is rapidly learning the business
of dragoman.
The tent was taken down to-day and washed, and tomorrow we shall present a
more godly appearance.

K (graphic) and L (graphic). Corinna went with Joe this morning and studied Arabic, under the
scaffolding, while the painter worked above, on it. We met M. Legrand, who was very
pleasant and entertaining, telling us some amusing stories about the thieving which goes
on - at Karnak, and how people have to be watched - people who know better.

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Jeannette, Totty, Tinie, Shaihi and Abdalla came into the temple, to stop Papa from
working any more - at five oclock, and back across the river we all came to the
dahabeyah - to find Mr. and Mrs. Quibell calling, and soon after Prof. Sayce came
over from his boat, and made a call too.
Mr. Quibell spoke very enthusiastically about the piece of stone, we bought the other day.
and said it was a fine piece, XXVI Dynasty.
Today we are made acquainted with the fact that the little boat, coming to us from,
Amam, at Shelall, is being rowed down, to Luxor, by a single Arab, - so that days
may pass before he turns up.
Grandpa and Dowe (accent) look up the river every morning, with hope.
Bedoui Fadill - our old landlord of the Ameer el. Wuz, seems to be our guest, at least,
a guest of our Captain and Crew - he spent last night on the boat, asked for an
eye wash - said good bye to all - departed for Assouan, and to-night is sitting comfortably
beside the dish of live coals on our deck again.
To day we heard that Port Arthur had fallen

BANZAI (graphic)

Wrote to Baron Kaneko, congratulating him on the
great victory of his countrymen.
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Friday Jan 6th
K. (graphic) and L (graphic) to-day.
A very hot summer like day, with South Wind until late in the afternoon when it
came again from the North West.
Egyptian callers came this afternoon, and Father entertained them.
Mohammed left us to-day for Assouan, in company with Bedoui Fadill.
Grandpa put up the tent to-day, and we know (underlined) it is cleaner than it was, but it
hardly looks very different.
Last night a Christmas pudding all afire, came in, and we started in with a will
to eat it all up, but it weighed too much - and when Abdalla left the room, we
all deliberated as to how it could be disposed of, without eating it, and without hurting
the feelings of the cook, who had spent much time on its construction.
It came again to table to-night, and Grandpa volunteered to dispose of a large
quantity, in the morning, when he makes his early promenade across the sands,
before breakfast.
Grandpa accepts the popular verdict, that his white linen hat is not fit to be seen
in, and threw it away, and Esia rescues it from the Nile, where it was thrown
and Dowe (accent) appears in it, to-night after dinner, masquerading as a beggar.
Corinna Jeanette, and both babies, went donkeying to Der el Bahri this afternoon,
and had a delightful time arriving home again at sundown.
The painter brought home his picture finished from Luxor temple to-night
Saw Mr. Lapsley this afternoon in the temple.
No chickens can be found in Luxor - and we look with gourmandic eyes

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on the choice little poultry yard of Prof Sayce's, which we pass and repass, so
many times a day on our way too (sic) and from Luxor. -
Grandpa worked with devotion this morning on a "settee" for Tinie.
The "Mayflower" up from Cairo, and the "Puritan" down from Assouan, to-day.
The town full of "Anglo Americans" and many donkey laden felluka's pass our
windows at an early hour, and receive Totty's morning salutations from the windows
of Mama's room.
We still are eating Charles MacVeagh, whose steamer "goodies" have so wonderfully
Intimations of trouble between Reis and crew, details vague, and, untrustworthy at
present, but some fire likely, where smoke is seen, we know nothing until the
storm breaks - it may never come to a head.

K (graphic) all day. Taking his lunch with him, which included a large hunk of the pudding
which has held out so well - Grandpa took off his large share before breakfast this morning
and buried it in the sand, far away from the boat, and possible exhumation by any of our
crew, we now pray, he will never do so again [the cook]
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell took their first Arabic lesson this morning, and she afterwards
staid (sic) to luncheon.
Mother and Corinna walked up to Karnak in the afternoon and came home with the Painter.
Many letters from home to-day, including one from Mrs. Gardner - and one from Denman
with newspaper cuttings about the Velasquez.

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Corinna had [from Ethel] Henry Jame's new book "The Golden Bowl" which she is
now devouring with delight.
No small boat yet. Dowe (accent) says "to-morrow" - the Spaniards also have that word.
Grandpa bought a new hat to-day, and to the families (sic) astonishment, it is like the
old one. He narrowly escaped being punished and put to bed, without his "ruks"
Rebecca and Frances took Jeannette, Dowe (accent) and Shaihi [in his new galibeah] to see
Luxor temple again late this afternoon. They feel that the hieroglyphic cows, ducks,
and owls are better in that temple than in any other of their vast experience.
All the hard and soft drinks, bought in Cairo are gone, we feel very penitent, and very
ashamed of the appetite, but are ordering more, and also more biscuits and crackers etc.
Grandma threw prunes promiscuously about. Tonight in one of the rooms, less
illuminated by "Lady Brassey's" rays, she went to bed directly after wards.

Papa and Grandpa stayed at home all the morning, and played with the two babies in
the sand, in the tent, in the swing and sled, and had a beautiful time. Papa took
over a dozen photographs of the scenes of the morning.
Grandma - Corinna and Jeannette went over to Luxor to church - and heard Prof Sayce give
a very interesting sermon, quite stirring in part, they said.
After a very good luncheon, Grandpa - Corinna and Joe, went on donkeys to the new tombs
discovered last year by Mr. Mond, and also went to the tombs of the Queens, and afterwards
went to the Quibells and had tea - the Host and Hostess being absent, but we were
expected. Ends a charming day.

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Despite rumors, before mentioned in these pages,
our men, seem happy and contented, and no
more is heard of their leaving, because the captain
won't pay them etc. ct.
At present, we have on board, the following men.
Reis Ali - Alobe - Esia - Shaihi - Seeam,
and Dowe (accent) - Abdalla - Abdu Rahman, and now Yaaseen.

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Work began again at Karnak this morning, and a new picture started at Luxor temple
Prof. Sayce sailed away this morning - up the river, and we are now the sole dahabeyah
on this side of the river - he took away all his hens with him, and this will end the
great, daily joke with Alobe, about stealing them for our consumption.

Warm and Summerlike - perfect weather. Dr. Saunders says the season is exceptionally
fine, and a wonderful contrast to last Winter which was cold and windy - we get
reports from Cairo, telling of wet cold very unpleasant weather there.
K. (graphic) and L (graphic)
Mr. Quibell called this afternoon, and when he left he took Rebecca with him for a
donkey ride - and she came back afoot with Abdalla.
Mrs. Saunders also called to-day, and asked some of us to go to the races, on
Thursday afternoon.
Corinna and Grandma, Jeanette and Tinie came over to bring "Papa"
home, - and on our way across the river, Grandpa and Rebecca, appeared in the
little felouka, rowed by Shaihi - the sight was most amusing, as the little
tub looks as tho (sic) she was upside down or wrong side out, queer in every aspect,
- she arrived, about four oclock, with Yaaseen as Reis and Crew, cook and
passenger, all in one.
We are to paint her bright red, and her name is to *be (inserted above text) Rebecca and Frances.

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K (graphic) and L (graphic) Bright sunny day - with a cold West wind -
Corinna went with Joe this morning to Karnak - poor donkey, native saddle - poor reins
poor bridle - no bits - bad stirrups, and yet she stayed on, and seemed to enjoy the journey
as she certainly did, the mornings quite (sic) study, and a pleasant conversation with
Mr. Legrand.
Mother and Jeanette attended church this afternoon, and were the only worshipers there
The little boat was painted this morning by Dowe (accent) and Shaihi - bright red, with blue
and white trimmings, and quite improved and transformed

One of the most perfect days, neither hot nor cold.
K (graphic) and L. (graphic) The painter went to Karnak this morning by boat, *the Rebecca & Frances (inserted above line), a new
and very pleasant way, taking a little under half an hour, from the boat, to my
work - came home at mid day in a perfect calm, so our sail was useless, and it
took 45 minutes. Dowe (accent) and Shaihi came down the shore a little distance and
"tracked" us along.
Georgie Lee and her husband arrived in Luxor this morning by train and left at 2,
for Assouan by Cook Post boat, leaving a letter for us, saying they would return
to Luxor next Wednesday to stop a week.
"Popper's" work was brought to an end this afternoon by the arrival of the dear little
procession and their faithful attendants, Jeannette Dowe (accent), Shaihi, and with Grandma
who had been most of the afternoon in the temple - all took a walk together out past

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the shops near Cooks landing stages, and Rebecca did some bargaining for some beads
and other trinkets, all laid out in most tempting array by the roadside.
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell took their Arabic lesson, this afternoon, and later had tea
and Mr. Mond, fresh from tomb digging joined us all, and made a very interesting
call. The Marquis Rudini came to Karnak this morning.
Most of our men gone to an Arab theater this evening and no sounds on deck of
the dominoes being shuffled about.
It transpires that Reis Ali - is brother to the Shelall owner of the dahabeyah which is
of course a great surprise - Dowe (accent) says he told us this fact, the day we sailed
but in the excitement of departure from Elephantine - his information made no impression
on us.
A cable this morning from Amy Lowell - telling the subjects she wants painted
A steam dahabeyah went down river this afternoon and saluted - she had an American
flag at the bow - and has been four days or more here at Luxor - there are two
others flying the flag, still here, one of them we believe hired by Mr. Archer Livinstone
of New York, friends of Corinna's. Dowe (accent) is to find out to-night.

Joe and Rebecca and Jeanette went to Karnak this morning with Dowe (accent), Alobe, and
Yaaseen, - and Rebecca was stopped at the entrance of the temple by a stupid or
over zealous guardian who demanded her temple ticket, we had quite a long parley,
to bring him to reason, and the letter from Maspero had to be shown him [which he,
confessed he was unable to read], meanwhile the little scamp had run in, by herself.

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and was seeing all she could before being put out.
She was immensely interested in the little boys who carry the baskets in the
excavations, and they also in her - and work was almost brought to a standstill, so
that we had to retire.
Jeannette took her home, after we had all walked around a while, and the "Amy Lowell
picture" was painted on.
Corinna came about 12, by donkey, and cooked a nice luncheon - hot soup and
scrambled eggs - and then we put in a long afternoon of work - she Arabic and
French - and the painter on his picture.
Mrs. Dexter and Mrs. Beals appeared this morning in Ibrahim's tow - [Anglo-Ameri-
-can Line SS. (underlined SS.) Victoria, arrived last night].
A good West wind brought us home in the small boat in 35 minutes where a
warm welcome awaited us from *the (inserted above line of text) small kids
Received photograph of fine cufic inscriptions for sale in Granada - $1000 -
Dowe (accent) brought in his pink galabeah, which came from Mecca - and put it on the
painter this evening, and with a tarbush on, he made a salute to the crew who called
him Effendi.
Everybody went to mosque to-day except Reis Ali.
Books came to-day from Harry and Belle Greene and an Arabic grammar.
Beautiful day, with fine mottled, cloudy sky. Finished Amy Lowell's picture.

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Yaaseen and Alobe sailed the painter down to Karnak this morning, in a mild
South West wind, - a good mornings work was put in, and M. Legrand was very
interesting, showing photograph of his work - and a new piece of digging he has
just begun - where he hopes for great results.
Joe walked home at mid day, and found Grandma in the felouka waiting - she
has rescued a poor little bird, which had been maltreated by a beast, - a man.
Work in Luxor temple went on as usual in the afternoon.
Mrs. Quibell came for her Arabic lesson with Corinna this morning.
At 4, the entire Smith family with Jeanette and Dowe (accent) [in his tarbush] and Shaihi
and Alobe - went to call and take tea on the "Victoria" with Mrs. Dexter and
Mrs. Beals - the babies lived up to the situation behaving perfectly.
We were presented with a number of New York papers - with all the news about the
fall of Port Arthur.
Grandma and Dowe (accent) went to market this morning, and bought some cloth for some
galibiah's which are to be made for her, and Lois Auna and Totty and Tinie, and a
tailor engaged to come to the dahabeyah to do the work.

A wonderful day.
Corinna and Joe went on donkeys to the tombs of the Kings and there met Mrs. Quibell
who went with them into four tombs - Rameris III and IX, Menefta and Amenophis II,
and then we all walked over the mountain above Dehr el Bahri to the Quibell's house

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where we had lunch.
Back to the dahabeyah early in the afternoon.
This morning Mr. Davis, big boat, the "Bedouin" came up and two other dahabeyahs - one
of them occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Longfellow, and Miss Hale, and Mrs. Perkins.

K (graphic) and L (graphic)
Mother and Joe, Alobe and Yaaseen, went to Karnak in the "Rebecca and Frances"
It is the most charming way to go, and takes me there in about the same time as
tho (sic) I went from Luxor by donkey.
Corinna and Mother and both babies called on Mr. and Mrs. Longfellow and Mrs.
Perkins and Miss Hale in the afternoon.
Mrs. Quibell took luncheon with us to-day.
Our second food supply came to-day from Fleurents, Cairo.
Another big dahabeyah came up just after sunset. The second one to-day. There
is also - a new steam dahabeyah - flying our flag. The shores both sides of the Nile
are lined with boats, presenting a very gay appearance.

Work went on at Karnak in the morning and Luxor temple in the afternoon.
Mrs. Mond made a long call on Mother and Corinna this morning
Joe called on Mrs. Andrews on Mr. Davis boat the "Bedouin" and Corinna and
he, dined out, with the Longfellows. Corinna went with Mrs. Saunders to

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The daily expenditures of the household, are kept in
Arabic and Corinna and Dowe (accent) and Yaaseen or
Alobe, have quite a time together getting it all
settled up, and then Corinna puts it down in her
account book.

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the Quibell's to tea.
Dowe (accent) has a bad cold, and seems quite miserable.

Another most beautiful day. Grandpa and Corinna went with Joe to Karnak this
morning, where we met Prof. and Mrs. Fergerson, and Miss Vaughn of Cambridge.
In the afternoon Georgie Lee and her husband made their appearance in Luxor temple
[having arrived to day at one oclock from Assouan, by steamer].
Mother and Joe took tea with them at the Luxor hotel late in the afternoon
in the garden -
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell had their battle with Arabic handwriting
Miss Vaughn and her party came over to-night and made a call on us.
Fine moonlight.
Dowe still under the weather, but better than he was last night.
The Mond's boat has been moved from the position near the German Villa - and is now
opposite us - just below the Grand Hotel.

Perfect day, and a wonderful sunset.
Work went on as usual at Karnak, and the painter was brought back to Luxor by the Lee's
who afterwards came to the boat, to luncheon.
Mr. Theodore Davis called this morning.
Corinna and Mrs. Lee went with Mrs. Saunders went to the gymkana meeting and
afterwards took tea at Luxor hotel. Dowe (accent) much better.

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K (graphic) and L. (graphic)
Big Anglo American crowd at Karnak this morning, a poor helpless aimless seeming
herd of people - all looking here - now there - now the other way at command
Same crowd, somewhat thinned out, came to Luxor temple in the afternoon, after their
tea on the boat.
-Corinna and Joe lunched at the Grand Hotel with the Fergersons and Miss Vaughn, and
in the evening Grandpa, Grandma and Joe, went to dine with the Lees at the
Luxor Hotel.
A Heavenly moonlight night.
The Fergersons - Miss Vaughn - Mrs. Andrews and her niece called this afternoon and
took tea.

The Artist took a day off, and went with Jim Lee, to the tombs of the Kings
Mrs. Quibell came this morning and took her Arabic lesson with Corinna, and told us
some very good news about Mr. Q. about his future work in Egypt.
Went to see a dahabeyah this afternoon, - the difficulty of getting definite word from
the owners of the "Abou Simbell" about a price of two more months on her, one enormous
plots are on foot to scare them into some expression of feeling, by, suggesting other plans

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K (graphic) and L (graphic)
North wind in the early morning when Joe went down to Karnak in the "Rebecca and Frances"
and West in the afternoon, and quite cold. Finished my picture in the Luxor temple
of "His better half"
Had a talk with the Reis of the "Bijou" and have made an offer to the owner, through
sum of (pound symbol L) 25 a month, which he seemed to think might be accepted, but we think otherwise
and shall be greatly surprised if we get the boat at that very low figure.
Took tea [Joe, Corinna and Grandma] with the Lees and said good bye to them, also to
Mrs. Quibell who went down to Cairo to-night to be gone a few days.
After dinner Corinna and Joe went over to the Anglo American "Puritan" and called on the
Fergersons and Miss Vaughn.

Work at Karnak in the morning, and began a new study in the afternoon at Luxor temple
Mother and Corinna went over the little hospital with Dr. and Mrs. Saunders, and called on
Mrs. Mond. They acquired a fine dragoman on the way, who would have surprised the Monds
by his appearance, if they had been in to see him.
Mr. Foulk of Washington came to-day, by train, and his family by Rameses III
which arrived late this afternoon.
Mr. Quibell came to dinner to-night
Wind strong from the West and cold and blustering all the afternoon
Little Miss Tinie getting a couple of teeth, and had rather yellious times last night.

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Sailed down to Karnak with Yaaseen and Alobe this morning. Wind south-West, and
by afternoon it blew a gale, and one of the wildest days we have had. Considerable dust
at Karnak this morning.
The crew openly found fault with the Captain, before us to-day, for their wages which
they declare have never yet been paid them. - *Alobe refused to eat his lunch to-day, saying his family had nothing to eat and he should not have food when they had none. (inserted after the line in three rows)
We sent a telegramm (sic) to Hadji Meki, saying there was trouble here and he had better
put in an appearance, and to answer - it remains to be seen what answer we get,
if any.
Work went on in Luxor temple in the afternoon, very cold wind searching, and finding
out ankles and shoulders, and the painter was glad to knock off at four, and go and
make a call on Mr. Ffoulke, at the Grand Hotel.
Corinna and Grandma, took tea at the Davis's boat.
Grandma retired early to-night as the motion of the boat, is a little too much like
ocean travel - quite a tossing about, we are having - and little Miss Tinie was terrified
with it, and refused to be comforted into sleep for some time - the "wet rag" punishment
was suggested and she went off, at once.
Esia, and Shaihi rowed the ladies up to the "Beduin (sic)" and looked like rag pickers
Esia's costume on a cold day, is not what you would call swell, - extremes meet,
and our old chap was a grand contrast and foil to the well costumed sailors on
the Davis boat.
Joe paid a visit to the market this noon, and was run into and knocked down by a
loaded donkey, and sprawled all over a number of uncomplaining natives and their wares.

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Rebecca started the day early this morning, crawling into her parents bed with Polly Flinders
who was so ice cold that touching her, most effectually drove away sleep.
Jeannette's engine gives the first intimation of approaching day, - then Rebecca - then
the sun flickers through the blinds, then Grandpa [who has been up for hours]
announces breakfast, and a scrabble ensues.
Shaihi and Yaaseen took the bread winner to Karnak in the little feluka [she looks
like the walnut felukas Grandma makes for Rebecca].
A large study of the big hall was begun.
Grandma and Joe spent the afternoon in Luxor
temple and a new study was commenced there too, - yesterdays study being tacky
and unfit to work on.
Hadji Meki's father appeared this afternoon from Assouan - and spends the night with
us, he will talk matters over with me tomorrow morning.
Went on board the "Bijou" and thought her a fine boat, far too fine, for a poor
painter man to aspire to. Promised Dowe (accent) a new galibeah - if we got her for the
price we mentioned to the owner.
Corinna's teacher [chary of compliments] gave her one this afternoon, which is hereby recorded

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In the small felouka to Karnak as usual this morning, and put in a hard morning's work.
M. Legrand is getting the water out of his diggings by means of a shadouf, quite a novel
sight - he promises some finds within a day or so now.
Corinna spent the afternoon at Luxor temple with Joe - and later Jeannette and the babies
made their appearance, and we toddled around into the Luxor hotel gardens, to see the
war telegrams, and then we made a call on the Ffoulkes on the Rames (sic) III.
Mr. Quibell came in at dinner time - refused to eat, but sat with us until we had,
finished. Corinna and Jeanette and the babies went to Rameres. to-day on donkeys.
With much talk and discussion a settlement was brought about, and Shaihi - Esia and
Alobe, have been paid what was due them, and happiness has settled down upon us all.
No business instincts seem lodged in the brains of our boats owners.
Letter from Mrs. Gardner to-day, asking why she don't get her tapestry - good reason
because I haven't yet bought it for her - by same mail, came an offer from Paris
from the owner - offering it for $8000, delivered at Fenway Court, which I shall
telegraph to her to-morrow.

Joe Called on Mrs. Phoebe Hearst this morning on the Amaris, and then went to Karnak by
donkey, afterwards seeing her again there. Corinna and Grandma came later by the
little felouka and Corinna introduced M. Legrand to Mrs. Hearst
We all came back in the little boat, being towed by Alobe and Yaaseen.
Work went on as usual in Luxor temple after luncheon - and, the babies came over and

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brought "Papa" home just before sunset
Many dahabeyah's (sic) come and go now and we cannot longer keep run of them.

SATURDAY 28th Jan.
Worked at Karnak, and expected a visit from the Duke of Conaught, that is Legrain
did, and fresh sand has been spread about on all the paths, and the shadoufs were decorated with
palm branches and all for nothing - as the special train was two hours late, and the
Duke and his party only had time to see the Luxor temple, being guided by Quibell
and Legrain, both in tarbuch's - [Corinna didn't know the catler when she met him
in the road, after the boat had taken the Royaltys (sic) away up to Assouan and Halfa.
Took a Kodak of a statute I want to buy for Mrs. Gardner - went up onto the
antiquity man's roof, and scared his hareem out of their skins, by my sudden
appearance there.
Corinna and Joe walked over to Mr. Quibell's in the later afternoon, meeting all the
men and little boys trooping home, from work at the tombs of the Kings and Dehr el Bahri.
We dined with Mr. Q. and spent the night, having a charming evening there with
him, and eating up a splendid turkey at dinner.
Reis Ali went to Assouan to-day.
After the heartiest of breakfasts, we took donkeys to Luxor - to our boat. Q. coming
along too, as he was going to Esneh to meet Maspero, to talk over the new appointment
he has just had - to Sakurah
Joe made a sketch of the pink mountains - and we lunched on deck and saw the

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Bradley Martin's steam dahabeyah arrive.
In the afternoon worked at Luxor temple and Corinna came over, and together we called
on the boat - having previously met Mrs. Martin and her sister Miss Phipps in the
temple, and walking around with them and their dragoman.
Dined on the "Bedouin" with Mr. Theodore Davis, and had a most enjoyable time
and a good dinner - homemade candy being a great treat.
Met Mr. and Mrs. Newton Stokes, who came up by train this morning and go back tomorrow *night. (inserted below last word of line)
MONDAY January 30th
Alobe and Yaaseen - [captain and crew of the Rebecca and Frances] took the painter down
to Karnak this fine misty morning, and waited there for him, while he
finished his big picture of the sacred boat.
Worked also on the new study of the Hypostyle Hall - and at 11.15 left the temple
crossed the river and at 12.10 was sitting in the "lunch tomb" in the valley of the
Kings, eating an extraordinarily good cold lunch, with the Bradley Martins, Lord and
Lady Craven - Miss Phipps, Captain Guest, and Corinna, who had come over with
Came over the hill and visited the temple, and got back to the dahabeyah at 4,
to find her moored in a new place - the water in the old one being too shallow, and
the boat being very nearly stuck fast.
Miss Phipps and the Captain came aboard and made a call, and when they left, Mr. and Mrs.
Stokes came and had tea and saw the babies, when they left, Quibell came also and
had some, and the "Rameses the great" came up the river, with Emory Gardner aboard,
and Stoke's younger brother aboard (strikethrough) and other friends Jeannette was ill to-day and

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Grandma and Grandpa took entire charge of the babies, and made a grand
success, so tiring out the little things, by a succession of amusements that they
dropped off to sleep, as soon as their tired little heads touched the pillows, to-night.
Grandpa and Grandma also, seem to have felt the days exertions.
Rebecca took a ride with an unknown admirer - on this donkey this afternoon.
A perfect day.
The painter worked this morning on his new picture at Karnak, and met Mr. Stokes
and Mrs. Portlethwaite of Washington there. Alobe and Yaaseen took him down
in the small felouka - as usual.
In the afternoon worked at Luxor temple on the little head of Rameses wife, behind
his Majesties (sic) left leg, on the statue recently discovered.
Jeannette getting better, but Corinna had to be on hand all day with the kids.
Emory Gardner called and had tea this afternoon.
Seven American flags are flying at Luxor now - six in dahabeyah's and one on
a camping outfit, near us on this side.
No word yet from the owner of the "Bijou"
One month of the new year gone.

Brought home from Karnak to-day the big picture of the sacred boat, from the
marble (strikethrough) (insert) granite sanctuary, and in the afternoon worked again on Mrs. Rameses and
finished her - Corinna and the babies went to tea on the "Bedouin" with - Mr. Andrews

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Had a long talk to-day with Legrain, who is a most interesting man - concerning the
the newly appointed Englishman to take Mr. Quibell's place - he spoke feelingly -
The shadoufs are at work now - passing the water from the excavations, where any time
now, we may expect to see something - the water runs into the sacred lake.
The Martin's dahabeyah went off up the river this morning.
THURSDAY. Feb 2 *Freeda Mond came and played all morning with (inserted marked with a { connecting to inserted line below)
The painter went this *Totsey, and left an invitation for Joe and Corinna (inserted marked with a { connecting to inserted line above)
morning to Karnak with Yaseen and Alobe, in the small felouka - and put in a
long morning's work - on the picture of the Hypostyle Hall, and a new one.
- Letter from owner of the "Bijou" to-day - not very satisfactory, but the
affair is not off, by any means - and the chance of the Fergersons taking the boat for
a couple or three days (strikethrough) (insert) months, may help us very materialy
Maspero, came down the river this morning.
Began a new picture at Luxor temple this afternoon.
Heard from Charlie Fitz to-day that the Moorish capitals I bought in Seville
for Mr. Gardner, have arrived all safe and sound.
Read in the paper to-day that the Emperess Eugenie, sailed yesterday on a dahabeyah
for Luxor and Assouan - hope we shall see the famous old lady, on her way up.
Corinna and Dowe (accent) are going through the day's accounts, and the day, which has
been one of perfect beauty - is done.
Dowe (accent) gave us a great scare to-night by suddenly introducing into the cabin the
wild untamed cat, to keep down the mice which are a little too numerous, and are
beginning to be somewhat destructive Corinna balanced up accounts to-day and

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finds that we are living as we did last month, for just $2.00 a head, which is
cheaper living that we can do in Boston, and as reasonable as Italy.

FRIDAY FEB 3th (sic)
Work went on at Karnak in the morning, and at Luxor temple in the afternoon
Legrain has found an interesting ancient drain - between the sacred lake and the new
excavations which he thinks is a very important affair - running to the Nile, and
used perhaps to drain the lake. The Longfellows arrived to-day from Assouan.
The Ferguersons came down the river to-day - sent a telegramm (sic) to the owner of the "Bijou"
An eventful day. Karnak in the morning. Luxor in the afternoon.
Had word from Cairo about the boat, and by two oclock *we (inserted above text line) had made a contract with the Reis
- for himself and sailors - one with the owner, for the rent of the boat, for two months or more,
and made arrangements with the Fergusons, so that they took the boat in the afternoon, and
we find ourselves with two dahabeyah's, four felouka's and twenty one men in our employ.
The Fergusons take the boat for two weeks from date - and may go up the river to El Kab.
In the afternoon Mr. Brown's [Genoa] sister Mrs. Weyermann and her daughter
and a Miss Bayley, came and had tea, followed later by the Longfellows, and Joe's
pictures were shown to them.
Corinna and Joe went to dinner at the Mond's - met M. Naville and his assistant there.
Had a cable from Mrs. Gardner to-day, saying to buy the Paris tapestry.

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Work at Karnak in the morning, with a pleasant half hour with the gay and cheerful
Director, who is as pleased with his canal, as a child with a new toy. Went down
into a damp cold shaft, and observed a sluice like slot, and peculiar joints of the
well laid masonry. Corinna took a lesson to-day in Arabic writing.
In the afternoon Joe went to the tombs which Mond discovered and picked out subjects
for painting - enough to keep him busy for weeks.
The Quibells returned to-day from Cairo, *& (different symbol inserted above text line) stopped at the dahabeyah for a call, and
Corinna and Rebecca walked part way across the sand bank with them when they
started for home.
Joe called on them later in the afternoon, and had tea, and met the young man who is to
take Quibell's place - and Mr. Davis - and returned with the latter to the riverside at
Carter incident most absorbing at present, the young man is in a most unfortunate position
and the outcome very uncertain, Maspero went down to Cairo by train to try to straighten
out the affair.
Our second dahabeyah - crossed the river to-day, and is now anchored near us on this side.

MONDAY Feb 6th
The painter went this morning over to Mr. Mond's tombs and walked in the beautiful carved
one, and with *his (inserted above text line) Reis, went over all his present diggings which are quite extensive this season.
Saw Mrs. Quibell, and borrowed a drawing board, which she said belonged to Mr. Carter.
Corinna and Grandma went aboard the "Bijou" and made an inventory of linen and table

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things, and gave orders to the Reis to have the boat thoroughly cleaned, during the day.
The "Safa" came to Luxor to-day behind a steam tug, and we must go and call on
the Mancriefs to-morrow.
- Work went on at Luxor temple in the afternoon, and Totly and Tinie in their little
new blue galabeah's came over with Grandma and Grandpa, later in the afternoon and
received flattering attention from all the donkey boat (strikethrough)(insert) boys
The Artist had his hair cut this afternoon, and becomes a human being in appearance
again, he took tea at Luxor Hotel, with the Fergurons, and came home with Grandma
-meeting her at the Chemists.
Mice and Rats, are now becoming troublesome on board the good ship "Abou Simbel" and
the cat is not earning her salt.
Crowned heads will soon be here, and the poor Quibell's will be busy taking them around,
in the bowels of the earth
Alobe and Grandpa have great fun, when the latter comes aboard the boat after a walk.
Alobe rushes to get the feather duster, to dust off his dusty shoes, and Grandpa has
the smallest coin of the Kingdom to hand him as backshees - the joke consists, in Grandpa's
endeavors to elude the dusting, or to receive it from other hands than Alobe's.

Joe went to Karnak this morning in the little felouka with Alobe and Yaaseen, and at
12 oclock got back to the dahabeyah and took donkeys with Corinna and went over to
the Quibells to lunch.
Grandpa Grandma and Abdalla - left soon after breakfast and walked to Medinet Habou

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and the tombs of the Queens, and in one of the latter tombs, Mrs. Quibell was discovered
painting, and she made them come home with her to luncheon - and there they were
discovered by Joe and Corinna.
A very merry luncheon, Mr. Q was very entertaining and we teased him about
the great people he must look after, next week.
Joe worked in one of Mond's tombs and Reis Mousa took him later to see four
mummy cases, which were found this afternoon: - Navielle found some statutes to-day
also - and Davis thinks he may have come upon Thotmosis II's tomb - over in the
valley of the Kings - lots doing over this side these days.
Corinna and Joe called on the Moncriefs late in the afternoon and after dinner
went over and called on the Davis boat
The Ferguson's came in and called to-night on (strikethrough)(insert) Mother and Grandpa.
Joe went to the tombs, and painted all the morning, and he had the pleasure of
seeing a mummy case excavated - where Mr. Mond is now digging - it was quite
an experience, and there is more to come, the Reis says - four have been found
in two days, and Mr. Mond has been sent for [he went, with his family to Assouan
three days ago].
A cold West wind sprang up, soon after midday and the afternoon was uncomfortable
- The painter worked in Luxor temple.
Mr. and Mrs. Quibell came in just before dinner, and took over water and hot water
and whiskey, before riding home across the wind swept plain.
The "Bijou" sailed up the river to-day just before noonday.

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Contract (signed) came from the owner of the "Bijou" to-day - all O.K. and Grandpa
sent him a registered letter with L (British pound sign) 25, payment for one month.
Rebecca had a letter to-day - the first the little girl has ever had in Egypt - from
Mr. Quibell - enclosing two passes to the temples and tombs of Upper Egypt- for herself
and Tinie.
Grandpa is beginning "to take notice" in Arabic - and already has quite a little
A year ago to-day the war began between the Japanese and their great opponent.
Corinna Grandma and Joe went to Karnak this morning in the little felouka,
and walked home at noonday.
The picture of the hall - in Luxor temple was finished this afternoon, and the three
ladies of the Abou Simbel came over to Luxor *later in the afternoon (inserted above text line) - Corinna and Grandma to call on Maspero
and Jeannette, to go to the Gymkana, with a friend of hers.
We did not find the great man or Mrs. Maspero, and consoled ourselves with tea in the
gardens of Luxor Hotel.
A letter came to-day from Volpi, giving the news of the Piero della Francesca,
and telling of three other superbe pictures, Prince Barbarini of Rome has decided to dispose
of - and which have so far escaped being put in the Governments (sic) list.
Quibell stopped in a moment at lunch time, and we ran him about his nervousness
concerning the approaching visit of the Dukes.
Legrain, has asked us to come up to Karnak on Monday night to see some illuminations
he is going to arrange for the Royalties

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Sir Colin Moncrieff, and his party went off up the river this afternoon - disgracefully towed
by a tug - with a magnificent breeze blowing.
Grandpa and Abdalla looked after the babies until our return - with great success.
A gale of wind and bitter cold weather is reported in Cairo to-day, we had some of the
wind, but the day was warm.

FRIDAY Feb 10th
The Painter made an early start this morning, on Hassans (sic) black donkey and got to work in his tomb
at 8.30, and Grandma and Corinna came over later on donks with the lunch basket, and while
Grandma and Joe went to see Monds (sic) excavations Corinna cooked a fine luncheon
Afterwards they went to Der el Bahri, and were shown all over the recent diggings by
Mr. Ayerton, and Corinna went down a thirty foot deep pit, - the grave of a Pharoe's
Later we went to the Quibell's to tea, and had to talk French, as Maspero, and the
French Ambassador and his large family of girls came and swarmed upon us, and there
was no escape possible.
Totly and Tinie had callers this morning, Mr. Davis's nieces, who spent all the morning with
the babies playing in the sand.
Grandpa busy doing some drawing, off, from a photograph.
Last night, a mouse upset a plate of apple sauce, *from a shelf (inserted above line of text) part of which fell upon the terrified Artist
sleeping below.
Grandpa set a trap last night, and this morning caught a fine large rat.
A letter from the Fergusons, telling how pleased they are with life on our boat, the Bijou.

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Dowe (accent) went home to Shellal to-day for a short vacation
The painter worked in his tomb and Grandpa came over later with Alobe, and
brought lunchon, which we ate in the courtyard of the tomb.
Mrs. Quibell arrived late in the afternoon with Mrs. Wilson and Miss Legett,
and Joe went home with them to tea.
Mr. Quibell went to Edfou to=day to meet the Duke of Connaught.
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell had a successful lesson to-day.
Joe went to Karnak this morning, and brought home, at 12 - a study of
a head, of Thutmosis III, which he finished this (strikethrough)(insert) to-day.
Mrs. Quibell came to luncheon *she went to Cairo in the evening (inserted above line of text) - and brought the startling news that
Mr. Davis's Reis had gotten down to the door of a tomb, that Mr. Davis
had sent word, with Maspero's permission to the Duke - to have it opened
to-morrow in his presence - To guard the tomb to-night it was
necessary to have police - gaffirs, and at least one (underlined) European official - and
Mr. Quibell being away, in attendance on the duke, it fell to Weggall to
go and spend the night at the tomb's mouth. He lunched at Davis (sic)
dahabeyah, and Corinna saw him, and he said he had got to go there
and rather dreaded it - would feel lonesome etc. etc - she said to him
that she and Joe would keep him company, and he accepted her proposition
and so in the late afternoon they both rode over the mountains and met
the lonesome young inspector - in the impressive valley, and before we had our

Page 87:

supper, we walked up one of the near by hills and saw the light die out of
the sky, and the moon shine in wondrous splendor - on the enchanting tho (sic)
desolate, wild and uncanny scene.
Corinna cooked a fine supper - and after a moonlight walk, up to the
end of the valley - joined by young Mr. Ayerton, who had come over from
Dehr el Bahri, to see if he might be of any assistance - we went to
bed - thinking of the tomb and its contents, we were guarding.
12 gaffirs, and a native inspectors (sic) slept near by, and the night was
warm and windless.
About 12 - we woke up, and took a little walk, in the wonderful moonlight
- an extraordinary and beautiful effect - the color marvelous, and the
light and shadow, entrancing.
Again we slept, and about 4.30, awoke again, and Corinna made tea,
and after sitting half an hour talking, we walked up the gebel and
saw the sun rise in glory - we made a long walk of it, into
another wild valley, towards the West, and then came back to
some breakfast. MONDAY (graphic - orange color under black) JANUARY (strikethrough)(insert) FEBRUARY 13
About 9.15, Mr. Davis came and said that Maspero, had given
direction that we should go ahead and open the tomb at once, and he
would presently arrive, and enter it.
This was done, and with Mr. Weigall, I had the honor of first going way
down to the lower door - and seeing the amazing sight, of what will probably
turn out to be one of the richest finds ever made in Egypt, an extraordinary

[Page Blank:]

Corinna ran into the
Duke and
Duchess of Devonshire, who
were standing at the mouth
of the tomb waiting with great
impatience for Maspero to come out
to take them about
a funny rencontre.

Page 89:

mass of priceless objects - in perfect condition - except for the two mummies,
which alone have suffered, at the hands of but one (possibly 2) thieves, who
was (sic) only after the gold in and around the bodies - who did no (underlined) wanton (underlined) harm,
to anything else - a wonderful, remarkable - astonishing find.
Maspero came, and pronounces it remarkable - extraordinary, even in
his great experience. - He did Corinna the singular honor, of asking Corinna
to scramble over the walled up doorway - (which had been partly broken down
4000 years ago by the thieves) and to come into the maze of objects scattered
about in a chamber (devoid of ornamentation) about 18 x 12, absolutely full (underlined)
to overflowing of rich rare treasures, packed full - it was all like
dreams -
Quibell should have opened the tomb, but he was stalled at Edfou, and did
not arrive until after the Ducal Party, had seen it, (about 2.30).
Maspero asked Joe, to make a color study of the thing, before anything
was done - and he went over the mountain to Mond's tomb, and returned
with a canvass, and made the study, by electric light. (insertion from last page points to start of this line)
It has been a day never, never to be forgotten.
Corinna and Joe, returned at seven oclock pretty well tired out, and
told everything to the family.
We walked over the mountain with Quibell and tried to jolly him up be (strikethrough)
up a bit - his disappointment was great of course, at not being there at
the beginning.
Mr. Lennon of Pawtucket had called this afternoon, and other old friends of ours

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have arrived and are staying in Luxor.
Empress Eujenia also arrived, and Mother saw her a number of times to-day
in the town. The place reeks with Royalty.
Professor Sayce has come down in his boat, and three other dahabeyah's
lie moored near us
Grandma and Jeanette went to Karnak to-night, and saw the illuminations
there, gotten up most effectively by Legrain, for the Duke and his party.

TUESDAY FEB 13 (strikethrough)(insert) 14
Joe made an early start and arrived at the tomb, in time to begin
work, with Quibell, Wygall - and Mr. Eliott, - worked there all
day - an experience of a life time -
Empress, Eugenia came and Madame Maspero - Prof Sayce, and other
distinguished and interested people came - Joe has been asked to
make drawings etc. for the catalogue -
- Crossed the mountain with Quibell - late in the afternoon - by the
steep path, and met Corinna, and Mr. Eliott, who had been
seeing Dehr el Barhi - with Mrs. Eliott, and had met D. Naville
who had shown them about, their interesting diggings there.
Tea with Quibell and his guests and home late to dinner.
Corinna went with Mother over to Luxor Hotel to call on some friends.
Quibell told Corinna that he had never had better assistance
in the work, than Joe had given him, which was great praise

Page 93:

Joe worked all day at the new tomb with Quibell and Weigall, and late in the
afternoon came home to tea with Mr. Lennon and some other Pawtucket friends *on our boat (inserted above text line), and
Corinna and he and Grandma and Grandpa dined later with them at the Savoy, and had
a particularly pleasant time
The Dukes of Connaught and Devonshire, and their Duchesses, the Prince of Sweeden (sic),
and various other celebrities came to the tomb to-day, and kept the workers there, from too
much progress.
Lunched with Maspero, and Dr. Sayce - at Davis's invitation to-day.

Joe went early to the tomb and was there all day, most of the time in complete
charge - as Quibell went off Duking, (by orders of Maspero) and Weigall went
early - to Luxor -
The Magazine, was finished this morning and Weigall and Joe, removed most
everything up out of the tomb, into it, during the early part of the afternoon.
Mother went to Karnak this morning, and reports that the big picture the Artist was at
work on - in the Hypostyle Hall - had been removed - probably because there was lots of dust
blowing these last few days.
Corinna and Quibell came over the mountain after Sunset, and we all spent the
night there again guarding the treasures in the hillside
We had a splendid night, slept splendidly well.

Page 95:

Friday. Feb 17

-Worked all the morning in the tomb - got out all the jars, and outer coffins
of the "old man" and later unwrapped part of him, and found various treasures
Lunched with Quibell, and in the afternoon resumed the profession of "Painter" and
worked at Mond's tomb, home later with Q. after tea with him. Mr. Davis
joining us. Dowe (accent) returned to us to-day.
Quibell came in and made a long call after dinner to-night.
Mother sold a picture to-day to Mrs. Beal of Boston, who came down yesterday on
the "Puritan" from Assouan, - the picture was the watercolor of the Hypostyle Hall
at Philae. Reis Ali came back to the boat to-day (strikethrough)(insert) yesterday, from his long assence (sic).


Joe went across the fields again this morning, and worked all the morning on the
charming little boys, bearing presents - in Mond's tomb - and at 12, walked over the
steep path above Dehr el Bari - and lunched with - Mr. Davis his two nieces and
Quibell and Weigall, afterwards made pencil drawings of the old couple whose long
repose we have thus destroyed, did some more catalogue for Q. and made a plan
diagram of the tomb and its contents, as at first observed by me.
Sent home word that I would spend the night there with Q. who would have been
After supper we walked up the other valley, which was most impressive in the moonlight,
- we heard a wolf barking to another, far off, up in the distant ravines
What a wondrous place it is -

Page 97:

Weigall dined with the family on the dahabeyah, and was very pleasant and
entertaining, the Fergusons came in to call this evening, and reported details of their
trip to El. Kab.

Mr. Davis came aboard to say good bye this morning - and about one oclock
the breeze (strikethrough)(insert) wind being strong and favorable. The great white wings of his boat were
spread to the breeze, and the "Bedouin" sailed away, up to Assouan.
Joe had a splendid night in the Royal valley, and in the morning did some work
on the catalogue, and at 11.30, walked up the "workmens path" and down the steeper
path on the Dehr-el-Bari. side, and over to the tomb, where he is painting, and at
12.30 took donkey, back to the riverside, to his deserted family.
Corinna and Joe called and had tea with the McCoys at the "Savoy"
A box of "Turkish delights" and a note from Mr. Quibell, saying Mrs. Q. had come
back from Cairo, and asks us to spend one more night in the valley, guarding the
treasures there. A week more in beloved Luxor, and then the family in
their new boat will regretfully leave - the beginning of our homeward journey.
Quibell was very interesting last night telling about excavations and discoveries
and giving various details of the history of the Museum, and the men who have
ruled there.


The painter went to Karnak in the "Rebecca and Frances" this morning, and found
that Legrain had removed his picture of the Hypostyle Hall, owning to the illuminations

Page 99:

and other excitements of this last very full and momentous week, the picture was
found in the magazine.
Mr. and Mrs. McCoy came to lunch to-day with their little boy Littlefield.
In the afternoon Joe went to Monds tomb and painted all the rest of the day, and
after tea, with Ayerton and Weigall - scrambled over the steep path, above Dehr el Bari.
and at dusk, was joined by Corinna - and with the Quibells spent another fine
night the wonderful old valley. Visited Thotmosis IV after Supper, and another
- Seknekt. The Whitakers called to-night, finding Grandma and Grandpa *at home. (inserted below line of text)
A slight flurry of rain drops woke us up in the morning
We helped pack things during the morning. Corinna and Mrs. Q. taking a walk
up the West Valley.
Grandma and Grandpa came over later, and Mr. and Mrs. McCoy, and also to our
great surprise and pleasure the Whitakers - we showed them all the things.
Joe walked over the crest of the hill, with the Q's, and lunched with them,
and painted all the afternoon in the little tomb, - called on the Ormes.

Joe went to work over in Gourneh, this morning and finished the picture he has been at
work on in the Tomb (120) back of the Rameseum - lunched with Ayerton at Dehr el
- Bahri - and in the late afternoon came home. *THE BABIES HAD THEIR HAIR CUT THIS MORNING, AND NOW LOOK LIKE LITTLE BOYS, INSTEAD OF GIRLS (inserted at end of this line and the next two lines - in mostly capital print instead of cursive)
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell called on Mrs. Legrain to-day.
Mr. Quibell and Weigall came to lunch.
Corinna and Joe dined with the Whitakers - at Luxor Hotel

Page 101:

Corinna and Jeanette went over to the tombs of the Kings this morning.
Joe finished a landscape of the hills - in the beautiful pink morning light
The McCoys called and invited us to lunch - and Joe accepted and went, and afterwards
went up to Karnak, in the "scarab" with Mother, and Dowe (accent) and Yaaseen and Esia,
and they brought home, the big sketch of the Hypostyle Hall.
Joe went to the Gymnkana with the McCoys for a little while, and then came home to
tea with the Whitakers - and showed them pictures afterwards, - they were most appreciative
Corinna and Joe dined with the Fergursons on board the "Bijou", and the sailors did a
fantasia for our honor and benefit.
A Mr. and Mrs. Stewart of New York called this evening by appointment and saw the
These last few nights on the "Abou Simbel" have been made miserable for us all, by
rats, who have arrived in numbers, like a plague.
Alobe's mother died yesterday - or the day before - he had a letter to-day, which Yaaseen
read to him in the tent, and then the poor old boy walked out over the sand all alone
with his sorrow.
One of the signs of his mourning, is abstinence of sugar in his coffee.

Page 103:

Joe went to his Gourneh tomb and began a new study this morning, and
received a visit later from Corinna and Miss Vaughn - who afterwards walked,
over the pass, and paid a visit to the new tomb.
Joe packed some things, with the Quibells, and lunched with them, there.
Corinna and Miss Vaughn went all over *Dehr-el-Barhi (inserted above the text line) with M. Naville and Mr. W.
M. and Madame Legrain came to dinner tonight, we sent the Bijou's felouka
down to meet them.
Legrain translated the hieroglyphics on the "Armen" and thought it a very fine
piece of XXVII - the pictures were shown, and seemed to give satisfaction to our
The Fergersons came to tea this afternoon and saw the pictures, and Corinna
took the babies over to say good bye to the Whitakers

Page 105: [text changes here - different writer]

Feb. 25th

Page 106:

Crew of the "Bijou"
Machmoud Capts. cook
Ali Fahil
Abaenifi Mahomet
Barberi Ali (singer)
Seliman (our boy) Seliman
Achmet Mochtaf
Yagoob 2nd Reis
Eq'azi 1st "

Page 107:

Feb. 26th
All turned out early and packed for a start to Cairo
The Fergusons gave up at 9 a.m. and the Smiths piled in
and after paying for the dahabeyah and the inevitable backsheesh
we cast off at 11-15/. The upper deck was half full of newly
backed (sic) bread for the crew. Mr. McCoy and wife and Mrs. Weigall saw us
off and as might be known about twenty arabs on the sand.
Shahi wept with grief at parting and Yaseen with the *Nagada (inserted in the left margin vertically and underlined in line with this line and one other)
"scarab" accompanied us down to Karnak when he left us
for his lonely trip back to Shellall. It has been a very
quiet warm day and by current and rowing we have made
about twenty three miles stopping for the night opposite
Nagarda (sic). Joe left us to go to the Quibells while we are away,
and hopes to join us a (sic) Balleniche

Feb. 27 Left the shore at 6 15/ no wind and
made a fair voyage here to Dendera (underlined) arriving at about
3 p.m. A chair was rigged for mother, and donkeys for *Dendara (written diagonally in the left margin in line with this line and two below)*
the others and off we all old and young scuttled for
the temple - about two miles. After a look around and
enjoying the beautiful works - home we came all a
little tired - the exertions of yesterday having now put in
their work. I for one am about used up H.T.

Page 109:

Feb. 28 Left the shore at 6-15
no wind - and good current, and after
grounding but once (and only once so far) we *Dishneh (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and three more below)*
arrived here a few miles above the rail-road
bridge at sun down. The day has been very
warm and pleasant and the sundownes are glorious
about 30 miles today. C. and I took a little walk
back of a low mud village accompanied by three
of the crew on our return Doe (accent) met us and remarked
that it was not a safe place for tourists to be-alone.

March 1st Picked up our stakes at 6.15 as yesterday.
Vairable (sic) head wind - mostly strong, this with
shoal water made our days (sic) work very small.
We arrived at the R.R. bridge about noon-moored *Kalid (inserted in left margin diagonally in line with this line and two others)
and waited for the draw to open, after one slip up
at which Corinna expostulated we seized the next
and dropped through but owing to bad wind we
moored again - startled at about 5 - made two miles
and moored again *for the night (inserted above line) - the (sic) telegraphed Joe that we
would be at Baleishny early tomorrow - Impkins -
2nd reis reports loss of $18 - while purchasing sugar cane.

Page 111:

March 2 Left Kalid early in morning
No wind and fair drifting. At or near
Abaiyeh we were interested in seeing the
Villagers assembled on the shore to assist *Balliania (inserted in left margin vertically in line with this line and with the next three)*
in finding the body of one drowned.
An exciting time for a while caused by a tug towing
a dahabieyh down - getting aground - and letting
the boat drift down so as to nearly collide with
us who at that moment touched bottom.
Arrived at Balaiena about sun down.

March 3
Packed a camel with tent etc and Mother
Corinna & (diff symbol) yours truly put off for abydos - arv. 11 a.m. *Girgeh (inserted diagonally left margin in line with text and continuing two more lines)*
pitched the tent in front yard - Mr. Quibell
having sent word to the guards to look out for
us - (one came to Abydos (strikethrough)(insert) Baleine last night to report it.)
On the way over & (diff symbol) back we were escorted by a
Greek gentleman - a contractor to build a road -
- way to Abydos. - No word from Joe. It being a
calm day we thought best to go on to Akhmin at
east - so left Doe (accent) & (diff symbol) started about 2 p.m and arrived
at Girgeh about 6

Page 113:

March 4th Left, Girgeh at 6 a.m. with a good
south wind until about 11 a.m. Made Atkhmin
at about 12.30. Abdallah and I went to the
town and found that there was no telegraph
office in town all messages coming from - Sohag
about 5 miles farther down. So after a ramble in the
country with Abdallah (who got lost) we up stakes *Sohag (inserted diagonally along left margin in line with this line and two others).*
and made for Sohag where we are to spend the
night. The reis's reason *given (inserted above text) being no good landing farther
down and he wanted to clear up the wash which
had been lying around loose for several days - the
real reason was that he had friends here that
he wished to and did see.
A boy called with a message from Joe
forwarded by Dowie which the boy had
carried to Atkhmin and back saying that
Joe was to come to Abydos next Tuesday
So it was as well that we started on and
made so much headway towards Cairo although
we miss the painter man very much.
The reis says god willing we start early and
have a south wind tomorrow and reach
Tahtah our next stop, ordered mail to be held Cairo.

Page 115:

March 5 Started at usual time but had
not made a mile away before the northerly
wind commenced and forced us to go ashore *opp. Sohag (inserted vertically in margin)
about two miles below and opposite Sohag
where we spent the day and night.
Sorry that we started as Sohag is the most
pleasant looking town we have seen since Cairo.
The family wrote a combination letter
to Lois to be forwarded to Aunty.
Madams (sic) rash does not seem to trouble her much today.

March 6 Cast off at Six a.m.
Rowed for about five hours and made
about eight miles when the wind having *Tuah (*inserted diagonally in margin)
become too fresh for us we tied up to a
mud bank on the West side near a small
village said to be Tuah.
The wind died down about five o'clk
and on requesting the reis to row for an hour
or so he was so much concerned at our
displeasure that he left the ship. However we
live in hopes of a better day tomorrow.

Page 117:

March 7 Started 5.45 a.m.
No wind and a quiet sea for about
two hours when the wind increased so
that we made for shore in a hurry *Near Tahtah (inserted in left margin diagonally in line with this line and three below)
about three miles South of Tartah (I wish
had caught it) about noon.
It has been blowing hard all the after-
noon. The reis was disgruntled because of
yesterdays work but the promise of a sheep
at Assiout has put him in good humor.

March 8
Like the King of France with
his 40,000 men, we started on time, went *Near Tahtah (inserted left margin diagonally in line with this line and three below)
about a quarter of a mile and then
moored again.
This day has been like one of our
blizzard days, with sand instead of snow
Sent a man to Tahtah for mail
etc. he spent the whole day and brought no
mail. He secured some pretty bad butter.
Promised the crew a sheep but found prices
to (sic) high here so did not secure one. (2 1/2 guineas)

Page 119:

March 9 Started at 6 a.m.
Wind light but gradually freshened
through the day but not as strong as before *near Rahineh (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and three more below)
we hope it has blown out.
At about five p.m. we arrived here a
short way s. of Raheineh which the reis refused
to pass it being " a stopping place - we hope to
reach Assiout and letters tomorrow p.m.

March 10 Although the reis promised us to
make a very early start - he did not get us off
any earlier than usual. *Near Assiout (inserted in left margin diagonally in line with this line and four others)
The day opened fine and quiet, but there did
not seem to be much snap (underlined) about the crew and so
we dawdled along and reached within say two
miles of Assiout when we made fast to the shore
This means a day visiting friends for the crew. I guess.
The reis has a painful smelling on the palm of his
hand and consequently is not in the best of humor.
Mothers rash is troubling her almost unbearably
I have it a little and we think the children have it also.
Mr. Davis towed past us to-day going towards Cairo. A fantasia on deck.

Page 121:

March 11 Started early, no wind and a
quiet sea and reached Assuit about eight
A.M. Mother Corinna Totsy *Abdallah (inserted above line) and I took a carriage
and rode up to the town - quite a distance (two miles)
no telegrams but a number of letters - two from Joe
which pleased the family - Telegraphed him to meet us *Assiout - (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and two others below)
at Moutfalul (also Harry Greene) where we expect to be
Monday sure. Abdallah spent most of the day in town
hunting for bread without success. Mother got some medicine.
About 3 p.m. we started for the bridge, but did not
arrive in time to get through. No sheep yet. - a Fantasia -

March 12 Got through bridge 6.30 no wind
Found a mud bank and kedged (underlined) off.
Bad water for navigation and twists and turns in
the river. Fetched up here at a small village called
Iboub in an eddy which held us as though aground *Iboub (inserted in left margin diagonal in line with this line and one below)
wind blowing hard but moderated about 5 - when
we hauled down near the town where there is a
better water for a start tomorrow. No sheep.

Page 123:

March 13 Started on time as usual
with a light wind from the north
About 8:30 some one hailed us from the shore
and it proved to be Doe (accent) who afterwards said
that Mr. Joe was at the Sheiks (sic) house eating
his breakfast. We moored to the shore at the
village of Beni (underlined) Hasan (underlined). Joe came aboard
and said that they had come to Moatferut the day
before and rode on donkeys upstream to meet us *Montferut (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and three more below)*
and getting to Beni Hassan too late to return the sheik
put them up for the night. The whole family except
Tiney made a call on the Moudir who returned it
by accompanying us through the crowd - it was market
day) to the boat when we continued our voyage and
arrived opposite Montferut in P.M. - Joe and Doe (accent)
went over and procured a camel and donkeys
and brought them down to the boat where we are
moored for the night.
Captain reports "bad water" ahead and he
did not wish to make a start late today
C. hurt her finger in the window
Mother is better of her rash.
We are all well pleased to be all together again.

Page 125:

March 14 Off early with a good water and
no wind to speak of. We made a very good
run of about thirty miles and put in opposite *El Amani (inserted vertically in left margin three lines)
El Amarna at dusk.
It has been a most enjoyable day - then
most of the way the river runs close to the mountain cliffs.

March 15 Started as usual, no wind and
made got (sic) sailing until near Rhoda when the wind freshened
and we remained nearly stationary in mid channel from
one to three o'clk. Joe and Dowe (accent) went ashore at the
ruins on Antionopolis and gathered a number of "antiques"
Our crew have demonstrated today more openly *about 4 miles N. of Rhoda (inserted vertically left margin in line with this line and continues for five other lines)
what we have conjectured before that they were bound
to make our trip down as long as possible and that
the reis could not control them. We think it is his
interest to hurry but he has said some nasty
things in our presence which were translated to us.
We hailed the tug that took Mr. Davis down
but he refused to take us down So Janette went
over to train for Cairo and will try to send a tug up and
meet us on the river. Four of crew say they are disabled.

Page 127:

15th continued - Doe (accent) with a gaffer from the Sheikh
and a pistol strapped around him and Janette
went up the bank to take donkeys for the 1/2 hour trip to
the Station - the natives crowded around and wondered
Why one (underlined) donkey was not sufficient to take both together with
the valise but as there was neither stirrups nor bridle they
both objected. However off they got and about 10 Doe (accent)
returned and reported all was well. The Sheik after sending
off the guard with them came on board and asked for some
medicine for a severe stomach-ache he had. Mother got out
her Jamaica ginger and gave it to him - afterwards we
found the ache was in his cow.

March 16 Up and off as usual, no wind
Met a (strikethrough)(insert) Crew worked a little better than yesterday *Near Mineyh (inserted left margin diagonally in line with this line and five others below)*
About noon we made Mineyh and on the bank,
we saw Harry Greene pacing up and down with a
handkerchief for a turban - he having lost his hat in
the cars and we were very glad to see him and made him
welcome. Janette telegraphed that her train being 5 hours
late she could not report then, but later sent word that a
tug was on the way for us. We left Mineyh at 4 and
moored about 6 three (strikethrough)(insert) miles farther up A Fantasia going on now.

Page 129:

March 17 Off as usual, no wind, crew worked
better probably in hopes of more backsheesh, as this is *above Maghadah below (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and four below)*
the last day for them to work in case the tug came up
Soon after starting a South West wind came up
and we bowled along finely so that by sun down
or a little before we had gone about 44 miles

March 18 Started on time and by eight
o'clk we caught a mild Southerly wind which
was just enough to encourage the men not to row
but by ten o'clk we made six miles or so
On approaching Fachen we were hailed from the
shore by the Captain of the tug Arrow which had
come up for us but could not pass the numerous *El. Helf (inserted vertically left margin in line with text and two below)*
boats that were stuck in the channel (including a
post boat going down) at the same place we had so
much trouble in five years ago. However by skillfull
management on our part we got by took the tug and
proceeded a mile or two when we got into another like
mess but finally got off and finally we put up here
for the night having made some fifty three or more miles
The south wind continues which helps us some and
we expect to arrive in Cairo tomorrow/Sunday P.M. Early

Page 131:

March 19 Started at 6 a.m. Strong wind
from the north all day but made good sailing
The tug found a native boat across the channel and
so ran aground, we drawing less water passed along
side of her and fetched up on the bank. Our crew
and male passengers went ashore and hauled the
tug off after some delay when we proceeded and
reached our berth below the great bridge about
three P.M. Much excitement in passing through
the draw, a large fleet of natives using it at the
same time Oaths etc was freely used and no accidents
happened. We are moored just above the Gh(?)(strikethrough)
Ghezirah Palace Hotel. Mr. Davis just below us
J etc. called on the Longfellows.
Thus ends the voyages on the Nile for
the Smith family for the season


Joseph Lindon Smith


American Archives of Art







Joseph Lindon Smith, “1904-1905 Travel to Egypt,” The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project, accessed May 20, 2024,