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              <text>Diary 1&#13;
Travel to Egypt, 1904-1905&#13;
&#13;
Page 3:&#13;
 &#13;
The account of the short voyage of the dahabeah "Aboo=Simbel" &#13;
from Elephantine island - [Assouan] to Luxor.  Winter 1904-5&#13;
and the time spent there, on the West bank of the river.&#13;
The "Aboo=Simbel" left the sand bank, where she had laid two weeks&#13;
or more on Saturday afternoon.  December 17th a little after two o'clock&#13;
and left "Mr. Joe" and the owners of the boat and the black bunch of&#13;
wives and mothers of the crew - standing there on the bank.&#13;
Wind strongly blowing up the river.&#13;
The ships company and crew are as follows.&#13;
Father and Mother Smith,  Mrs. Joe - "Rebecca" - "Tiny" and &#13;
Jeannet, Yacirrty - and "Mr. Joe" [to join later.]&#13;
The crew..            		Dragoman Dowe (e accent) Mahomet.&#13;
Captain Ali Sadi      		Steward Abdalla Mahomet.&#13;
1st mate Alobi	      		Cook Abdu Rahman&#13;
2nd mate Esia     Captain's Cook&#13;
Sailors Margan 	  Seeam&#13;
 	Osmayn took Yasenes place (all four words underlined)&#13;
 	Shaihi	 	Pater on joined at Luxor&#13;
 	Mahomet	 	in the "Rebecca and Frances" by Yaaseen &#13;
&#13;
Page 5:&#13;
&#13;
At about sunset, the "Aboo=Simbel" had successfuly (sic) crossed&#13;
the river, and lay on a sandbank close to the "St. James Hotel"&#13;
about a three minutes walk from her starting place at Elephantine&#13;
and there she was visited by Mr. Joe - who came to say goodnight&#13;
and wish them a pleasant journey.  On a great pile of&#13;
boulders, which jut out into the stream, at this point, he sat, &#13;
and saw his home and household, float away out of sight&#13;
and into the dimness of early night.  Little voices from the small&#13;
enclosed deck at the stern, shouting out goodnights.&#13;
When the deserted one, clambered back to the bank, from his&#13;
last sight of the floating home, he was surprised to see&#13;
the small boat, landing one of the crew, with all his belongings&#13;
in a roll - a sick uncle had inconsiderately arrived from Cairo,&#13;
and this boy, who was a very nice willing fellow, was obliged to&#13;
give up his place, in the dahabeah (a underlined).&#13;
The family were surprised, at the choice made, to fill this place&#13;
in our crew. - "Gummy" came aboard, roaring drunk - &#13;
our old friend Ousmaine, of Ameer el Wuz days.&#13;
His advent closes the day, as the opposite bank, was reached&#13;
and tied to, and Assouan's lights twinkling hardly two miles&#13;
away.&#13;
  Spent the night, below, the Tomb of Gnanneld.&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
 &#13;
We found out later on that&#13;
Ousmaine drinks the ------- (connected line pointing to wine on following page)&#13;
methylated spirits.&#13;
&#13;
Page 7: &#13;
&#13;
SUNDAY.  DECEMBER 18th.&#13;
Left our moorings at five oclock and made slow progress, for&#13;
an hour, and then a long wait was made, which was inexplicable&#13;
for a time.  At length the small boat appeared, with Mahommed&#13;
and Ousmaine - we had been waiting for their return from&#13;
Assouan, where the Carter had gone, with Reis Ali's permission&#13;
to leave money [paid him in advance by the Reis] with his family &#13;
Little Mohammed had been told to go with Ousamaine, and not loose (sic)&#13;
sight of him, but had misunderstood directions, or had been eluded&#13;
by Gummies slyness. - for the wine that is red, had been looked at&#13;
and freely partaken of, and the poor old sot, came alongside, once&#13;
more in splendid spirits.&#13;
Mahommed was pounded for his failure to guard Ousmaine better,&#13;
while he was scolded and his turban pulled off - disclosing the&#13;
remains of the thirty five piasters, which he had started off with.&#13;
Gummy certainly was not making a good impression.&#13;
After throwing away a bottle, secreted in the small boat, the dhabeah&#13;
was once more *put (inserted above the line) in motion.  Gummies voice turned to a high key, in&#13;
the singing.&#13;
A bad head wind made progress impossible, and about two oclock we landed&#13;
and made fast at a small island - named Kooban - here we spent the afternoon&#13;
and night.  I walked upon its sands by moonlight, and enjoyed the &#13;
ill wind which drove us to that haven.&#13;
&#13;
Page 9:&#13;
&#13;
MONDAY DECEMBER 19.&#13;
Made an early start, and at noon reached Kom Ombo twenty six miles&#13;
from Assouan.  Landed and saw the temple and an hour later resumed our&#13;
voyage - and met and saluted a dhahabeah and an Anglo=American Steamer.&#13;
Ousmaine perfectly sober.&#13;
In the afternoon about sundown came to Fars, and there tied up for the&#13;
night, and walked by *a (strikethrough)(insert) splendid moonlight after dinner.&#13;
 &#13;
 &#13;
TUESDAY DEC 20.&#13;
Started about five this morning, and went all day, stopping at seven in the&#13;
morning at Gebel Silsileh, where we saw the temples or chapels, and&#13;
afterwards resumed our way.&#13;
A strong head wind blew all the afternoon.&#13;
At Sunset we had reached Silwa - where we spent the night.&#13;
 &#13;
 &#13;
WEDNESDAY. Dec 21&#13;
Started earlier than ever before, from Silwa - this morning, and reached Edfou&#13;
about two, *having tracked for some hours (inserted above line of text) passing magnificent scenery on the way.&#13;
The two Grandparents went off on a wild goose chase, in the small feluka,&#13;
over to the other bank, to the Railway station, hunting for "Mr. Joe" who it&#13;
was thought might possibly be there waiting.  *A sheep was promised the crew. (inserted below line)&#13;
&#13;
Page 11:&#13;
&#13;
When they returned empty handed, son less, the temple was visited before&#13;
darkness came down, and four police with lanterns appeared as we were &#13;
leaving who wondered at our visiting the temple in darkness, and tried to&#13;
illuminate its grand proportions by magnesium lights, but failed entirely in their&#13;
endeavor - Had a Fantasia tonight - Gummy to the fore - &#13;
They advized (sic) Dowe (accent on e) that we needed two watchmen for our boat, because Edfou was&#13;
such a bad place - we don't know how many watched over us, from the bank&#13;
that night, a shilling was all the vigil cost us however.&#13;
  Telegram from Joe, saying to expect him Friday.&#13;
THURSDAY DEC 22.&#13;
Sheep not bought.  Dowe (accent on e) pronouncing it too dear. - the feast postponed.&#13;
Next morning after an early breakfast, we again visited the temple, 242 steps&#13;
up the great Pylon and about nine oclock went aboard, and left Edfou.&#13;
but an hour afterwards our old enemy the North wind proved too much for us,&#13;
and Edfou, remained in sight all the rest of the day, until about six oclock &#13;
we started again, and went all night.  or (strikethrough)&#13;
 &#13;
FRIDAY DEC 23&#13;
About nine oclock reached El Kab, and went at once across the desert to see the&#13;
tombs, after lunch - sent to meet Joe - men returned in the felouka about four&#13;
without him.  The only afternoon train from Assouan having failed to bring him&#13;
to the station of Mahomed -&#13;
Most of the afternoon after their return, spent in spirited conversation, as to what we&#13;
&#13;
Page 13:&#13;
&#13;
had better do.&#13;
Decided to wait at El Kab - until the next day.&#13;
Ate up the grand feast prepared for the home coming son and husband, and about&#13;
ten thirty the Grandparents having just gotten into bed, a feeble yell for&#13;
"Dowe" (accent e) startled the stillness of the night, and Mr. Joe slid off his donkey and&#13;
boarded the "Abou Simbel" followed by two night watchmen with guns *and a donkey boy (last four words written above line) - bearing&#13;
also two beds - a rocking chair, a bag, camp chair, three canvasses and an &#13;
easel.&#13;
This is Joe's story.&#13;
The station master at Assouan sold me a ticket to Edfou, saying that El Kab, was&#13;
nearer that station than Mahomed, so I left the train there and beds, rocking chair,&#13;
and the other impedimenta followed, and I watched the train go off, and then&#13;
asked a donkey boy, if there was a dhabeyah at El Kab - and how far off was &#13;
El Kab, - The station master told me I should have remained on the train&#13;
as Mahomed was nearer.   My only piece of good fortune was, that there happened&#13;
to be an extra freight train, which was expected in about two hours, and this &#13;
I waited for, waited 5 hours for it, and found myself at a deserted,&#13;
desolate, hamlet, at eight oclock - and after a long wait while donkeys and &#13;
men were found and waked up, by the station master, I again started on my&#13;
quest of my family.&#13;
An hour's ride, in the splendid moonlight, during which time a large owl&#13;
so startled the donkey with the beds on him that he sat down outright, brought&#13;
me at length to a dhabeah - but not mine - but Mr. Summers (sic) Clarke.  &#13;
&#13;
Page 15:&#13;
&#13;
This was a blow indeed, as the day had already been full enough of disappointments &#13;
and fatigue - but there was nothing to do but retrace our steps, which we did&#13;
and at 10:35 I arrived, as already noted above.&#13;
 &#13;
SATURDAY DEC 24&#13;
Started off early and drifted delightfully all through a perfect day.  Through&#13;
fine scenery, with far away distant mountains - the mountains of Thebes, and Luxor.&#13;
About seven oclock we reached Esneh, and the two mothers filled a pair of&#13;
stockings with Christmas presents for the little people tomorrow morning.&#13;
 &#13;
CHRISTMAS (graphic)   SUNDAY. DECEMBER TWENTY FIFTH&#13;
Santa Claus comes to dahabeah's, as well as to homes with chimneys, and we&#13;
all enjoyed the opening of the stockings stores. Grandma's offerings were in &#13;
perfect taste and wisdom of years experience, was shown, by pairs (underlined) of things, so &#13;
that envy could hardly appear to man that day - eyes in one little head however &#13;
looked with even greater interest on sisters share, than her own - while the baby&#13;
would not let go one gift to search for and open another, as she feared it was&#13;
the old trick of parents, to substitute one thing for another.&#13;
Jeanette gave the babies charming little amber necklaces, from Constantinople&#13;
which they will appreciate some day.&#13;
The entire family went ashore, and, followed by many citizens of Esneh, visited&#13;
&#13;
Page 17:&#13;
&#13;
its famous temple and attractive baazars.&#13;
A sheep was bought, and at length the promised feast is in sight.&#13;
"Gummy" came aboard this morning, with a surprising gait on - which he&#13;
attributed to a wounded foot - he was put out of light, but subsequently &#13;
made his escape and made a second addition to his spirited condition.&#13;
We sailed soon after luncheon - and waited in mid stream, while Gummie was&#13;
sought for in the town, and at length brought to us in the small boat, in&#13;
a very glum frame of mind, refusing to take an oar - as soon as he got aboard&#13;
  He was rudely thrust below the deck, and called bad names.&#13;
A wonderful sunset ended Christmas day on the Nile, and a full moon soon&#13;
continued the beauty of travel in this fashion, and our crew kept the boat&#13;
in mid stream through the night, and only stopped when Luxor was all but &#13;
in sight.&#13;
 &#13;
MONDAY DEC 26&#13;
Drifted down to Luxor in two hours this morning, and tied up to the shallow&#13;
bank on the Thebes side of the river, and made arrangements for a long stay&#13;
- pitched the tent on the sand - put out a permanent gang plank, etc etc. and &#13;
went to Luxor for mail.&#13;
Three Hoopers were found, and we took tea with Ellen at the Luxor Hotel&#13;
and met Mrs. Dr. Saunders, to whom we had a card of introduction from Dr. Sandwirth  &#13;
The Ameer el Wuz, he's near Cooks landing on the Luxor side and on our side&#13;
a big dahabeah named the "Dongola" is moored near us, on the sand bank.&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
 &#13;
*The cook made two amusing ibis&#13;
decorations out of napkins - for the table.&#13;
see - photograph.&#13;
 &#13;
Page 19:&#13;
&#13;
TUESDAY DEC 27.&#13;
Ellen Hooper and her two sisters came to luncheon to=day.&#13;
Great preparations were made by Dowe (accent on e) and the cook, and everything went off very&#13;
smoothly, and our guests who had never been before on a dahabeah - seemed to greatly&#13;
enjoy themselves - The sailors gave a great fantasia afterwards, and then &#13;
took the ladies over to Luxor, in the small boat.&#13;
 &#13;
 &#13;
WEDNESDAY.  DEC 28.&#13;
Joe spent the morning at Karnak and picked out subjects enough to keep&#13;
him busy for weeks.&#13;
Mother and Dowe (accent on e) interviewed the dealer in Antiquities whose wife milks cows,&#13;
but the result seemed rather vague, and indefinite, and we don't know much&#13;
more about the great milk question than we did before, and I daresay the &#13;
great "bear brand." is the one bright star in our milky way.&#13;
Work has been begun by the painter, at Luxor temple, a charming head of &#13;
a priest of Mut.&#13;
  Mother sat and watched, and gave valuable advice, and made some&#13;
measurements with her sunshine.   Afterwards she and the painter roamed around&#13;
in the temple and were surprised by two little bints in red coats, with a &#13;
mother, and Abdalla and Shay in attendance.&#13;
Their study of Egypts antiquities is most profound.&#13;
Mrs. Olgilivie called this afternoon at the boat and found Corinna and Grandpa.&#13;
&#13;
Page 21:&#13;
&#13;
THURSDAY DEC 28 (strikethrough)(insert) 29&#13;
A cold, fine morning.&#13;
The painter went donkeying to the Ramesseum and Medinet Habu this morning&#13;
and found more subjects to paint.&#13;
Corinna and Ellen Hooper also came over on the same excursion two hours later&#13;
and called on Mrs. Quibell, who had just returned from calling on us at the&#13;
boat.   Ellen Hooper stayed to luncheon, with us.&#13;
The painter worked at the Luxor temple and at 4.30 joined Grandma and &#13;
Corinna at tea with the Saunders at the hotel.&#13;
The children had made a formal and well behaved call, earlier in the afternoon&#13;
and with Dowe (accent e) and the cook in their best clothes, attracted considerable&#13;
attention&#13;
Grandpa and Dowe (accent e) brought over from Luxor this morning, quite a lumber supply,&#13;
which is to be used, in making a contrivance, for the ease and comfort of the &#13;
painter, and the safety of the oil pictures which are to be painted at Karnak.&#13;
 &#13;
 &#13;
FRIDAY DEC 30.&#13;
The painter went this morning to Karnak and presented Maspero's letter of&#13;
introduction to M. Legrand, the director there, who was very pleasant and desirous of&#13;
being of any service he could.&#13;
Joe asked to have a staging put up, so he could get a good position to do some&#13;
of the reliefs on the exterior of the sanctuary, and M. Legrand instantly called&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
 &#13;
Rebecca said this morning&#13;
"I have just said good morning&#13;
to Mrs. (underlined) Reis Ali" which is her&#13;
first remark concerning the dress&#13;
of the Egyptians&#13;
 &#13;
Page 23:&#13;
&#13;
an Arab and gave the directions, he promised to show us over the recently&#13;
excavated portions, soon - where he found so many fine things last Winter.&#13;
A quiet morning at the dahabeah, children playing with Grandpa in the sand&#13;
At twelve thirty we all met at the Luxor Hotel to lunch with the Hooper girls&#13;
a very festive occasion, with charming flowers on the table, and a very good &#13;
lunch indeed.&#13;
Mr. Ogilvie leaves Luxor to-day for Cairo, and is good enough to go to Spiros to&#13;
order me some more canvas for the Karnak work.&#13;
After luncheon - the painter went to Luxor temple to paint on his Priest of Mut,&#13;
and Grandma and Grandpa and Corinna were invited to go to Karnak with&#13;
the Hoopers - Grandma in a chair with porters.&#13;
The babies and Jeanette came over to the hotel to meet them on their return&#13;
but sunset time approached and they crossed over with Papa to the dahabeah&#13;
and welcomed them uproariously from the windows of the sitting room.&#13;
  Apple fritters to-night, a great success.&#13;
Dowe (accent e) comes in every night directly after dinner is over and Abdalla has&#13;
cleared off the table, - and gives an account of the day's expenses to Corinna&#13;
who is keeping sum of all the expenditures of the trip&#13;
Rebecca sits up on the sofa before dinner and eats her supper at the little&#13;
shelf, Grandpa put up for the lamp and the goolahs, and just before we sit&#13;
down to the table, Tiny comes in to kiss us all good night chuckling&#13;
and gurgling with pleasure.   Both babies go to sleep at once, and sleep &#13;
splendidly well.&#13;
  The big dahabeah, Dongola - left this morning for up stream.&#13;
&#13;
Page 25:&#13;
&#13;
SATURDAY&#13;
DECEMBER 31.   LAST DAY OF THE YEAR&#13;
The artist of the family, went to Karnak this morning as usual, on donkey 47,&#13;
and the box father made, was taken on the heads of two boys, at the same time&#13;
Corinna was called for by the Hoopers about 10-30 and went over to the Quibells&#13;
where she and Ellen lunched, and afterwards went into some recently opened tombs,&#13;
of the Queens - with Mrs. Quibell a most delightful experience.&#13;
They afterwards took tea there and arrived back at the boat at sunset.  &#13;
Joe worked again in Luxor temple in the afternoon having mother for company, and father&#13;
part of the time.&#13;
The children's bath tub came this morning, so that they will no longer have to take&#13;
their bath in the pan, for washing dishes.&#13;
Just before dinner, while Abdalla was setting the table, the crew began the darahbouka &#13;
and singing, and Rebecca, in her nightdress came running out, and danced charmingly, &#13;
in perfect time, on the deck, to the great enjoyment of the sailors, as well as the family&#13;
It is one of the prettiest sights to see the sweet little fairy dancing there in the semi-&#13;
darkness - surrounded by the dark skinned crew.   She and Shaihi danced together&#13;
  Reis Ali and father between them fixed up a swing - made out of a&#13;
milk can box, two oars and some roap (sic), and the Reis spent a good part of the&#13;
morning swinging both children&#13;
The big Cook, dahabeyah Ammon Ra, came up the river this afternoon, and&#13;
anchored quite near us, on the sand bank.&#13;
 					Beautiful sunset tonight, with cloudy sky.&#13;
&#13;
Page 27:&#13;
&#13;
SUNDAY &#13;
JANUARY 1   FIRST DAY OF THE YEAR 1905.&#13;
A still, windless day, partly cloudy, and warm.&#13;
Joe painted at Karnak in the morning, walked there, and back, for variety in less&#13;
than half an hour each way.&#13;
After a very big mid day meal - [in honor of the day], went over to Luxor again, and &#13;
at 5, had finished the picture of the priest of Mut, in the temple - and went with &#13;
Grandpa to an antiquity shop, to see a piece of hieroglyphic, which we saw the&#13;
other day, and had been bargaining for - our repeated offer - of one pound (L British pound sign),&#13;
was accepted, and we came away with the prize under Joe's arm - a present from&#13;
Corinna - [the asking price was two pounds].&#13;
The steam dahabeyah - of the Monds arrived to-day.&#13;
Corinna took both babies over to Luxor hotel, this morning to say good bye to the &#13;
Hoopers, who left for Assouan, at 2.30 by Post boat.&#13;
Grandpa made a sleigh to=day, for the babies, out of a soap box,  barrel staves&#13;
and brains - and Joe and Shaihi dragged them about in the sand at sunset time,&#13;
great fun for everyone.&#13;
  In the dusk, we saw a big dahabeyah stealing up, through the mist, which&#13;
has come at sundown, the last few nights. Dowe (accent e) says she belongs to Prof Sayce.&#13;
The other big boat the Ammon Ra, left this afternoon for Assouan.&#13;
&#13;
Page 29:&#13;
&#13;
MONDAY. JAN 2.&#13;
Clouds, sunshine and very hot to-day&#13;
Work went on at Karnak this morning, and a small head in sunlight, in the interior &#13;
walls of the marble sanctuary was finished&#13;
A water color was begun, in the afternoon, in Luxor temple, a figure of Rameses.&#13;
Corinna and Joe went and (strikethrough)(insert) to make a call on the Mond's this afternoon, and found them&#13;
both aboard their boat.&#13;
Dowe (accent) received a telegram today from Amam, [his brother at Philoe (oe combined letter)] saying the little&#13;
boat, we sent for, had been sent, and we shall begin to look for her, on some big&#13;
felouka, tomorrow or the day after.&#13;
 &#13;
TUESDAY JAN 3.&#13;
The painter went as usual to Karnak, and worked all the morning.&#13;
Shaihi decorated the Theban side of the river, with the wash - which made a gay sight&#13;
flying, from our wash lines.&#13;
Mr. Mond called this morning with his little girl Frieda, who made friends with our&#13;
kids at once&#13;
In the afternoon Grandmother Corinna and Rebecca went on donkeys over to call on&#13;
the Quibells, and found them both at home - it was the little girls first real donkey&#13;
ride, and she did very well, and enjoyed herself greatly.&#13;
Work went on at Luxor temple as usual, after luncheon&#13;
Grandpa subscribed to the library, at Luxor Hotel this afternoon and took out two&#13;
books.   - ordered a new galibeah for Shaifi this morning.&#13;
&#13;
Page 31:&#13;
&#13;
WEDNESDAY Jan 4th&#13;
K (graphic) means Karnak, and L (graphic) means Luxor temple, and these two letters will &#13;
hereafter, be used in this journal, when the painter has worked in those temples.&#13;
The canvas, ordered by Mr. Ogilvie in Cairo, came this afternoon, at any rate we&#13;
got it to-day, so tomorrow the painter can begin his large picture, of the procession of&#13;
priests, on the sanctuary of Philip at Karnak.&#13;
  Corinna and Joe, took tea with Prof Sayce on his dahabeyh this&#13;
afternoon, and returned to our boat later to find an Arab caller - a teacher from the&#13;
American Mission School - come to make arrangements about giving Mrs. Quibell and &#13;
Corinna lessons in Arabic.&#13;
The little Mond girl came this morning with her French maid to play with our babies.&#13;
Grandma none the worse for her long donkey back excursion of yesterday, went over to&#13;
Luxor temple and had it all to herself this morning while Dowe (accent) went to market.&#13;
Grandpa goes with Dowe (e accent) on these occasions and is rapidly learning the business&#13;
of dragoman.&#13;
The tent was taken down to-day and washed, and tomorrow we shall present a&#13;
more godly appearance.&#13;
 &#13;
THURSDAY JAN 5th&#13;
K (graphic) and L (graphic).  Corinna went with Joe this morning and studied Arabic, under the&#13;
scaffolding, while the painter worked above, on it.  We met M. Legrand, who was very &#13;
pleasant and entertaining, telling us some amusing stories about the thieving which goes&#13;
on - at Karnak, and how people have to be watched - people who know better.&#13;
&#13;
Page 33:&#13;
&#13;
Jeannette, Totty, Tinie, Shaihi and Abdalla came into the temple, to stop Papa from&#13;
working any more - at five oclock, and back across the river we all came to the&#13;
dahabeyah - to find Mr. and Mrs. Quibell calling, and soon after Prof. Sayce came&#13;
over from his boat, and made a call too.&#13;
Mr. Quibell spoke very enthusiastically about the piece of stone, we bought the other day.&#13;
and said it was a fine piece, XXVI Dynasty.&#13;
Today we are made acquainted with the fact that the little boat, coming to us from, &#13;
Amam, at Shelall, is being rowed down, to Luxor, by a single Arab, - so that days&#13;
may pass before he turns up.&#13;
Grandpa and Dowe (accent) look up the river every morning, with hope.&#13;
Bedoui Fadill - our old landlord of the Ameer el. Wuz, seems to be our guest, at least,&#13;
a guest of our Captain and Crew - he spent last night on the boat, asked for an&#13;
eye wash - said good bye to all - departed for Assouan, and to-night is sitting comfortably&#13;
beside the dish of live coals on our deck again.&#13;
To day we heard that Port Arthur had fallen&#13;
 &#13;
BANZAI (graphic)&#13;
 &#13;
 &#13;
 &#13;
 				Wrote to Baron Kaneko, congratulating him on the&#13;
 				great victory of his countrymen.&#13;
Page 35:&#13;
&#13;
Friday Jan 6th&#13;
K. (graphic) and L (graphic) to-day.&#13;
A very hot summer like day, with South Wind until late in the afternoon when it&#13;
came again from the North West.&#13;
Egyptian callers came this afternoon, and Father entertained them.&#13;
Mohammed left us to-day for Assouan, in company with Bedoui Fadill.&#13;
Grandpa put up the tent to-day, and we know (underlined) it is cleaner than it was, but it&#13;
hardly looks very different.&#13;
Last night a Christmas pudding all afire, came in, and we started in with a will&#13;
to eat it all up, but it weighed too much - and when Abdalla left the room, we &#13;
all deliberated as to how it could be disposed of, without eating it, and without hurting&#13;
the feelings of the cook, who had spent much time on its construction.&#13;
It came again to table to-night, and Grandpa volunteered to dispose of a large&#13;
quantity, in the morning, when he makes his early promenade across the sands,&#13;
before breakfast.&#13;
Grandpa accepts the popular verdict, that his white linen hat is not fit to be seen&#13;
in, and threw it away, and Esia rescues it from the Nile, where it was thrown&#13;
and Dowe (accent) appears in it, to-night after dinner, masquerading as a beggar.&#13;
Corinna Jeanette, and both babies, went donkeying to Der el Bahri this afternoon, &#13;
and had a delightful time arriving home again at sundown.&#13;
The painter brought home his picture finished from Luxor temple to-night&#13;
Saw Mr. Lapsley this afternoon in the temple.&#13;
  No chickens can be found in Luxor - and we look with gourmandic eyes&#13;
&#13;
Page 37:&#13;
&#13;
on the choice little poultry yard of Prof Sayce's, which we pass and repass, so&#13;
many times a day on our way too (sic) and from Luxor. - &#13;
Grandpa worked with devotion this morning on a "settee" for Tinie.&#13;
The "Mayflower" up from Cairo, and the "Puritan" down from Assouan, to-day.&#13;
The town full of "Anglo Americans" and many donkey laden felluka's pass our&#13;
windows at an early hour, and receive Totty's morning salutations from the windows&#13;
of Mama's room.&#13;
We still are eating Charles MacVeagh, whose steamer "goodies" have so wonderfully&#13;
lasted.&#13;
Intimations of trouble between Reis and crew, details vague, and, untrustworthy at&#13;
present, but some fire likely, where smoke is seen, we know nothing until the&#13;
storm breaks - it may never come to a head.&#13;
 &#13;
JAN. 7th SATURDAY.&#13;
K (graphic) all day. Taking his lunch with him, which included a large hunk of the pudding&#13;
which has held out so well - Grandpa took off his large share before breakfast this morning&#13;
and buried it in the sand, far away from the boat, and possible exhumation by any of our&#13;
crew, we now pray, he will never do so again [the cook]&#13;
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell took their first Arabic lesson this morning, and she afterwards &#13;
staid (sic) to luncheon.&#13;
Mother and Corinna walked up to Karnak in the afternoon and came home with the Painter.&#13;
Many letters from home to-day, including one from Mrs. Gardner - and one from Denman &#13;
with newspaper cuttings about the Velasquez.&#13;
&#13;
Page 39:&#13;
&#13;
Corinna had [from Ethel] Henry Jame's new book "The Golden Bowl" which she is&#13;
now devouring with delight.&#13;
No small boat yet.  Dowe (accent) says "to-morrow" - the Spaniards also have that word.&#13;
Grandpa bought a new hat to-day, and to the families (sic) astonishment, it is like the&#13;
old one.  He narrowly escaped being punished and put to bed, without his "ruks" &#13;
Rebecca and Frances took Jeannette, Dowe (accent) and Shaihi [in his new galibeah] to see&#13;
Luxor temple again late this afternoon.  They feel that the hieroglyphic cows, ducks,&#13;
and owls are better in that temple than in any other of their vast experience.&#13;
All the hard and soft drinks, bought in Cairo are gone, we feel very penitent, and very&#13;
ashamed of the appetite, but are ordering more, and also more biscuits and crackers etc.&#13;
Grandma threw prunes promiscuously about.  Tonight in one of the rooms, less&#13;
illuminated by "Lady Brassey's" rays, she went to bed directly after wards.&#13;
 &#13;
SUNDAY. JANUARY 8th&#13;
Papa and Grandpa stayed at home all the morning, and played with the two babies in&#13;
the sand, in the tent, in the swing and sled, and had a beautiful time.  Papa took&#13;
over a dozen photographs of the scenes of the morning.&#13;
Grandma - Corinna and Jeannette went over to Luxor to church - and heard Prof Sayce give&#13;
a very interesting sermon, quite stirring in part, they said.&#13;
After a very good luncheon, Grandpa - Corinna and Joe, went on donkeys to the new tombs&#13;
discovered last year by Mr. Mond, and also went to the tombs of the Queens, and afterwards&#13;
went to the Quibells and had tea - the Host and Hostess being absent, but we were &#13;
expected.   Ends a charming day.&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
 &#13;
Despite rumors, before mentioned in these pages,&#13;
our men, seem happy and contented, and no &#13;
more is heard of their leaving, because the captain&#13;
won't pay them etc. ct.&#13;
At present, we have on board, the following men.&#13;
Reis Ali - Alobe - Esia - Shaihi - Seeam,&#13;
and Dowe (accent) - Abdalla - Abdu Rahman, and now Yaaseen.&#13;
 &#13;
Page 41:&#13;
&#13;
MONDAY JAN 9th&#13;
Work began again at Karnak this morning, and a new picture started at Luxor temple&#13;
Prof. Sayce sailed away this morning - up the river, and we are now the sole dahabeyah &#13;
on this side of the river - he took away all his hens with him, and this will end the&#13;
great, daily joke with Alobe, about stealing them for our consumption.&#13;
 &#13;
TUESDAY JAN 10th&#13;
Warm and Summerlike - perfect weather. Dr. Saunders says the season is exceptionally &#13;
fine, and a wonderful contrast to last Winter which was cold and windy - we get&#13;
reports from Cairo, telling of wet cold very unpleasant weather there.&#13;
K. (graphic) and L (graphic)&#13;
Mr. Quibell called this afternoon, and when he left he took Rebecca with him for a&#13;
donkey ride - and she came back afoot with Abdalla.&#13;
Mrs. Saunders also called to-day, and asked some of us to go to the races, on&#13;
Thursday afternoon.&#13;
  Corinna and Grandma, Jeanette and Tinie came over to bring "Papa" &#13;
home, - and on our way across the river, Grandpa and Rebecca, appeared in the &#13;
little felouka, rowed by Shaihi - the sight was most amusing, as the little &#13;
tub looks as tho (sic) she was upside down or wrong side out, queer in every aspect,&#13;
- she arrived, about four oclock, with Yaaseen as Reis and Crew, cook and &#13;
passenger, all in one.&#13;
We are to paint her bright red, and her name is to *be (inserted above text) Rebecca and Frances.&#13;
&#13;
Page 43:&#13;
&#13;
WEDNESDAY JAN 11th&#13;
K (graphic) and L (graphic)   Bright sunny day - with a cold West wind - &#13;
Corinna went with Joe this morning to Karnak - poor donkey, native saddle - poor reins&#13;
poor bridle - no bits - bad stirrups, and yet she stayed on, and seemed to enjoy the journey&#13;
as she certainly did, the mornings quite (sic) study, and a pleasant conversation with&#13;
Mr. Legrand.&#13;
Mother and Jeanette attended church this afternoon, and were the only worshipers there&#13;
The little boat was painted this morning by Dowe (accent) and Shaihi - bright red, with blue&#13;
and white trimmings, and quite improved and transformed&#13;
 &#13;
THURSDAY JAN. 12th&#13;
One of the most perfect days, neither hot nor cold.&#13;
K (graphic) and L. (graphic)   The painter went to Karnak this morning by boat, *the Rebecca &amp; Frances (inserted above line), a new&#13;
and very pleasant way, taking a little under half an hour, from the boat, to my &#13;
work - came home at mid day in a perfect calm, so our sail was useless, and it&#13;
took 45 minutes.  Dowe (accent) and Shaihi came down the shore a little distance and&#13;
"tracked" us along.&#13;
Georgie Lee and her husband arrived in Luxor this morning by train and left at 2,&#13;
for Assouan by Cook Post boat, leaving a letter for us, saying they would return&#13;
to Luxor next Wednesday to stop a week.&#13;
"Popper's" work was brought to an end this afternoon by the arrival of the dear little&#13;
procession and their faithful attendants, Jeannette Dowe (accent), Shaihi, and with Grandma&#13;
who had been most of the afternoon in the temple - all took a walk together out past&#13;
&#13;
Page 45:&#13;
&#13;
the shops near Cooks landing stages, and Rebecca did some bargaining for some beads&#13;
and other trinkets, all laid out in most tempting array by the roadside.  &#13;
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell took their Arabic lesson, this afternoon, and later had tea&#13;
and Mr. Mond, fresh from tomb digging joined us all, and made a very interesting&#13;
call.  The Marquis Rudini came to Karnak this morning.&#13;
Most of our men gone to an Arab theater this evening and no sounds on deck of&#13;
the dominoes being shuffled about.&#13;
It transpires that Reis Ali - is brother to the Shelall owner of the dahabeyah which is&#13;
of course a great surprise - Dowe (accent) says he told us this fact, the day we sailed&#13;
but in the excitement of departure from Elephantine - his information made no impression&#13;
on us.&#13;
A cable this morning from Amy Lowell - telling the subjects she wants painted&#13;
A steam dahabeyah went down river this afternoon and saluted - she had an American&#13;
flag at the bow - and has been four days or more here at Luxor - there are two&#13;
others flying the flag, still here, one of them we believe hired by Mr. Archer Livinstone&#13;
of New York, friends of Corinna's.  Dowe (accent) is to find out to-night.&#13;
 &#13;
FRIDAY JAN 13th.&#13;
Joe and Rebecca and Jeanette went to Karnak this morning with Dowe (accent), Alobe, and&#13;
Yaaseen, - and Rebecca was stopped at the entrance of the temple by a stupid or &#13;
over zealous guardian who demanded her temple ticket, we had quite a long parley,&#13;
to bring him to reason, and the letter from Maspero had to be shown him [which he,&#13;
confessed he was unable to read], meanwhile the little scamp had run in, by herself.&#13;
&#13;
Page 47:&#13;
&#13;
and was seeing all she could before being put out.&#13;
She was immensely interested in the little boys who carry the baskets in the&#13;
excavations, and they also in her - and work was almost brought to a standstill, so &#13;
that we had to retire.&#13;
Jeannette took her home, after we had all walked around a while, and the "Amy Lowell &#13;
picture" was painted on.&#13;
Corinna came about 12, by donkey, and cooked a nice luncheon - hot soup and&#13;
scrambled eggs - and then we put in a long afternoon of work - she Arabic and&#13;
French - and the painter on his picture.&#13;
Mrs. Dexter and Mrs. Beals appeared this morning in Ibrahim's tow - [Anglo-Ameri-&#13;
-can Line SS. (underlined SS.) Victoria, arrived last night].&#13;
A good West wind brought us home in the small boat in 35 minutes where a &#13;
warm welcome awaited us from *the (inserted above line of text) small kids&#13;
Received photograph of fine cufic inscriptions for sale in Granada - $1000 - &#13;
Dowe (accent) brought in his pink galabeah, which came from Mecca - and put it on the&#13;
painter this evening, and with a tarbush on, he made a salute to the crew who called&#13;
him Effendi.&#13;
Everybody went to mosque to-day except Reis Ali.&#13;
Books came to-day from Harry and Belle Greene and an Arabic grammar.&#13;
Beautiful day, with fine mottled, cloudy sky.   Finished Amy Lowell's picture.&#13;
&#13;
Page 49:&#13;
&#13;
SATURDAY JAN 14th&#13;
Yaaseen and Alobe sailed the painter down to Karnak this morning, in a mild&#13;
South West wind, - a good mornings work was put in, and M. Legrand was very&#13;
interesting, showing photograph of his work - and a new piece of digging he has&#13;
just begun - where he hopes for great results.&#13;
Joe walked home at mid day, and found Grandma in the felouka waiting - she&#13;
has rescued a poor little bird, which had been maltreated by a beast, - a man.&#13;
Work in Luxor temple went on as usual in the afternoon.&#13;
Mrs. Quibell came for her Arabic lesson with Corinna this morning.&#13;
At 4, the entire Smith family with Jeanette and Dowe (accent) [in his tarbush] and Shaihi&#13;
and Alobe - went to call and take tea on the "Victoria" with Mrs. Dexter and&#13;
Mrs. Beals - the babies lived up to the situation behaving perfectly.&#13;
We were presented with a number of New York papers - with all the news about the&#13;
fall of Port Arthur.&#13;
Grandma and Dowe (accent) went to market this morning, and bought some cloth for some&#13;
galibiah's which are to be made for her, and Lois Auna and Totty and Tinie, and a &#13;
tailor engaged to come to the dahabeyah to do the work.&#13;
 &#13;
SUNDAY JAN 15th.&#13;
A wonderful day.&#13;
Corinna and Joe went on donkeys to the tombs of the Kings and there met Mrs. Quibell&#13;
who went with them into four tombs - Rameris III and IX, Menefta and Amenophis II,&#13;
and then we all walked over the mountain above Dehr el Bahri to the Quibell's house&#13;
&#13;
Page 51:&#13;
&#13;
where we had lunch.&#13;
Back to the dahabeyah early in the afternoon.&#13;
This morning Mr. Davis, big boat, the "Bedouin" came up and two other dahabeyahs - one&#13;
of them occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Ernest Longfellow, and Miss Hale, and Mrs. Perkins.&#13;
 &#13;
MONDAY JANUARY 16.   REBECCA's THIRD BIRTHDAY&#13;
K (graphic) and L (graphic)&#13;
Mother and Joe, Alobe and Yaaseen, went to Karnak in the "Rebecca and Frances"&#13;
It is the most charming way to go, and takes me there in about the same time as &#13;
tho (sic) I went from Luxor by donkey.&#13;
Corinna and Mother and both babies called on Mr. and Mrs. Longfellow and Mrs.&#13;
Perkins and Miss Hale in the afternoon.&#13;
Mrs. Quibell took luncheon with us to-day.&#13;
Our second food supply came to-day from Fleurents, Cairo.&#13;
Another big dahabeyah came up just after sunset.  The second one to-day.  There&#13;
is also - a new steam dahabeyah - flying our flag.  The shores both sides of the Nile&#13;
are lined with boats, presenting a very gay appearance.&#13;
 &#13;
TUESDAY JAN. 17th&#13;
Work went on at Karnak in the morning and Luxor temple in the afternoon.&#13;
Mrs. Mond made a long call on Mother and Corinna this morning&#13;
Joe called on Mrs. Andrews on Mr. Davis boat the "Bedouin" and Corinna and&#13;
he, dined out, with the Longfellows.   Corinna went with Mrs. Saunders to&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
 &#13;
The daily expenditures of the household, are kept in &#13;
Arabic and Corinna and Dowe (accent) and Yaaseen or&#13;
Alobe, have quite a time together getting it all&#13;
settled up, and then Corinna puts it down in her &#13;
account book.&#13;
&#13;
Page 53:&#13;
&#13;
the Quibell's to tea.&#13;
Dowe (accent) has a bad cold, and seems quite miserable.&#13;
&#13;
WEDNESDAY JAN 18th&#13;
Another most beautiful day. Grandpa and Corinna went with Joe to Karnak this&#13;
morning, where we met Prof. and Mrs. Fergerson, and Miss Vaughn of Cambridge.&#13;
In the afternoon Georgie Lee and her husband made their appearance in Luxor temple&#13;
[having arrived to day at one oclock from Assouan, by steamer].&#13;
Mother and Joe took tea with them at the Luxor hotel late in the afternoon&#13;
in the garden - &#13;
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell had their battle with Arabic handwriting&#13;
Miss Vaughn and her party came over to-night and made a call on us.&#13;
Fine moonlight.&#13;
Dowe still under the weather, but better than he was last night.&#13;
The Mond's boat has been moved from the position near the German Villa - and is now&#13;
opposite us - just below the Grand Hotel.&#13;
 &#13;
THURSDAY JAN 19th&#13;
Perfect day, and a wonderful sunset.&#13;
Work went on as usual at Karnak, and the painter was brought back to Luxor by the Lee's&#13;
who afterwards came to the boat, to luncheon.&#13;
Mr. Theodore Davis called this morning.&#13;
Corinna and Mrs. Lee went with Mrs. Saunders went to the gymkana meeting and&#13;
afterwards took tea at Luxor hotel.   Dowe (accent) much better.&#13;
&#13;
Page 55:&#13;
&#13;
FRIDAY JAN 20th&#13;
K (graphic) and L. (graphic)&#13;
Big Anglo American crowd at Karnak this morning, a poor helpless aimless seeming&#13;
herd of people - all looking here - now there - now the other way at command&#13;
Same crowd, somewhat thinned out, came to Luxor temple in the afternoon, after their&#13;
tea on the boat.&#13;
-Corinna and Joe lunched at the Grand Hotel with the Fergersons and Miss Vaughn, and &#13;
in the evening Grandpa, Grandma and Joe, went to dine with the Lees at the &#13;
Luxor Hotel.&#13;
A Heavenly moonlight night.&#13;
The Fergersons - Miss Vaughn - Mrs. Andrews and her niece called this afternoon and&#13;
took tea.&#13;
 &#13;
  SATURDAY JAN. 21&#13;
The Artist took a day off, and went with Jim Lee, to the tombs of the Kings &#13;
to-day.&#13;
Mrs. Quibell came this morning and took her Arabic lesson with Corinna, and told us&#13;
some very good news about Mr. Q. about his future work in Egypt.&#13;
Went to see a dahabeyah this afternoon, - the difficulty of getting definite word from&#13;
the owners of the "Abou Simbell" about a price of two more months on her, one enormous&#13;
plots are on foot to scare them into some expression of feeling, by, suggesting other plans&#13;
&#13;
Page 57:&#13;
&#13;
SUNDAY JAN 22.&#13;
K (graphic) and L (graphic)&#13;
North wind in the early morning when Joe went down to Karnak in the "Rebecca and Frances"&#13;
and West in the afternoon, and quite cold.  Finished my picture in the Luxor temple&#13;
of "His better half"&#13;
Had a talk with the Reis of the "Bijou" and have made an offer to the owner, through&#13;
sum of (pound symbol L) 25 a month, which he seemed to think might be accepted, but we think otherwise&#13;
and shall be greatly surprised if we get the boat at that very low figure.&#13;
Took tea [Joe, Corinna and Grandma] with the Lees and said good bye to them, also to&#13;
Mrs. Quibell who went down to Cairo to-night to be gone a few days.&#13;
After dinner Corinna and Joe went over to the Anglo American "Puritan" and called on the&#13;
Fergersons and Miss Vaughn.&#13;
 &#13;
MONDAY JAN 23.&#13;
Work at Karnak in the morning, and began a new study in the afternoon at Luxor temple&#13;
Mother and Corinna went over the little hospital with Dr. and Mrs. Saunders, and called on&#13;
Mrs. Mond.  They acquired a fine dragoman on the way, who would have surprised the Monds&#13;
by his appearance, if they had been in to see him.&#13;
Mr. Foulk of Washington came to-day, by train, and his family by Rameses III&#13;
which arrived late this afternoon.&#13;
Mr. Quibell came to dinner to-night&#13;
Wind strong from the West and cold and blustering all the afternoon&#13;
Little Miss Tinie getting a couple of teeth, and had rather yellious times last night.&#13;
&#13;
Page 59:&#13;
&#13;
TUESDAY JAN 24th&#13;
Sailed down to Karnak with Yaaseen and Alobe this morning.  Wind south-West, and &#13;
by afternoon it blew a gale, and one of the wildest days we have had.  Considerable dust&#13;
at Karnak this morning.&#13;
The crew openly found fault with the Captain, before us to-day, for their wages which&#13;
they declare have never yet been paid them. - *Alobe refused to eat his lunch to-day, saying his family had nothing to eat and he should not have food when they had none. (inserted after the line in three rows)&#13;
We sent a telegramm (sic) to Hadji Meki, saying there was trouble here and he had better&#13;
put in an appearance, and to answer - it remains to be seen what answer we get,&#13;
if any.&#13;
Work went on in Luxor temple in the afternoon, very cold wind searching, and finding&#13;
out ankles and shoulders, and the painter was glad to knock off at four, and go and&#13;
make a call on Mr. Ffoulke, at the Grand Hotel.&#13;
Corinna and Grandma, took tea at the Davis's boat.&#13;
Grandma retired early to-night as the motion of the boat, is a little too much like&#13;
ocean travel - quite a tossing about, we are having - and little Miss Tinie was terrified&#13;
with it, and refused to be comforted into sleep for some time - the "wet rag" punishment &#13;
was suggested and she went off, at once.&#13;
Esia, and Shaihi rowed the ladies up to the "Beduin (sic)" and looked like rag pickers&#13;
Esia's costume on a cold day, is not what you would call swell, - extremes meet,&#13;
and our old chap was a grand contrast and foil to the well costumed sailors on &#13;
the Davis boat.&#13;
Joe paid a visit to the market this noon, and was run into and knocked down by a&#13;
loaded donkey, and sprawled all over a number of uncomplaining natives and their wares.&#13;
&#13;
Page 61:&#13;
&#13;
WEDNESDAY Jan 25th&#13;
Rebecca started the day early this morning, crawling into her parents bed with Polly Flinders&#13;
who was so ice cold that touching her, most effectually drove away sleep.&#13;
Jeannette's engine gives the first intimation of approaching day, - then Rebecca - then&#13;
the sun flickers through the blinds, then Grandpa [who has been up for hours]&#13;
announces breakfast, and a scrabble ensues.&#13;
Shaihi and Yaaseen took the bread winner to Karnak in the little feluka [she looks&#13;
like the walnut felukas Grandma makes for Rebecca].&#13;
A large study of the big hall was begun.&#13;
 			  Grandma and Joe spent the afternoon in Luxor&#13;
temple and a new study was commenced there too, - yesterdays study being tacky&#13;
and unfit to work on.&#13;
Hadji Meki's father appeared this afternoon from Assouan - and spends the night with &#13;
us, he will talk matters over with me tomorrow morning.&#13;
Went on board the "Bijou" and thought her a fine boat, far too fine, for a poor&#13;
painter man to aspire to.   Promised Dowe (accent) a new galibeah - if we got her for the&#13;
price we mentioned to the owner.&#13;
Corinna's teacher [chary of compliments] gave her one this afternoon, which is hereby recorded&#13;
 &#13;
Page 63:&#13;
&#13;
THURSDAY JAN 26th&#13;
In the small felouka to Karnak as usual this morning, and put in a hard morning's work.&#13;
M. Legrand is getting the water out of his diggings by means of a shadouf, quite a novel&#13;
sight - he promises some finds within a day or so now.&#13;
Corinna spent the afternoon at Luxor temple with Joe - and later Jeannette and the babies&#13;
made their appearance, and we toddled around into the Luxor hotel gardens, to see the&#13;
war telegrams, and then we made a call on the Ffoulkes on the Rames (sic) III.&#13;
Mr. Quibell came in at dinner time - refused to eat, but sat with us until we had,&#13;
finished.   Corinna and Jeanette and the babies went to Rameres. to-day on donkeys.&#13;
With much talk and discussion a settlement was brought about, and Shaihi - Esia and&#13;
Alobe, have been paid what was due them, and happiness has settled down upon us all.&#13;
No business instincts seem lodged in the brains of our boats owners.&#13;
Letter from Mrs. Gardner to-day, asking why she don't get her tapestry - good reason&#13;
because I haven't yet bought it for her - by same mail, came an offer from Paris&#13;
from the owner - offering it for $8000, delivered at Fenway Court, which I shall&#13;
telegraph to her to-morrow.&#13;
 &#13;
FRIDAY JAN 27th&#13;
Joe Called on Mrs. Phoebe Hearst this morning on the Amaris, and then went to Karnak by&#13;
donkey, afterwards seeing her again there.  Corinna and Grandma came later by the&#13;
little felouka and Corinna introduced M. Legrand to Mrs. Hearst&#13;
We all came back in the little boat, being towed by Alobe and Yaaseen.&#13;
Work went on as usual in Luxor temple after luncheon - and, the babies came over and&#13;
&#13;
Page 65:&#13;
&#13;
brought "Papa" home just before sunset&#13;
Many dahabeyah's (sic) come and go now and we cannot longer keep run of them.&#13;
 &#13;
SATURDAY 28th Jan.&#13;
Worked at Karnak, and expected a visit from the Duke of Conaught, that is Legrain&#13;
did, and fresh sand has been spread about on all the paths, and the shadoufs were decorated with&#13;
palm branches and all for nothing - as the special train was two hours late, and the&#13;
Duke and his party only had time to see the Luxor temple, being guided by Quibell&#13;
and Legrain, both in tarbuch's - [Corinna didn't know the catler when she met him&#13;
in the road, after the boat had taken the Royaltys (sic) away up to Assouan and Halfa.&#13;
Took a Kodak of a statute I want to buy for Mrs. Gardner - went up onto the&#13;
antiquity man's roof, and scared his hareem out of their skins, by my sudden&#13;
appearance there.&#13;
Corinna and Joe walked over to Mr. Quibell's in the later afternoon, meeting all the&#13;
men and little boys trooping home, from work at the tombs of the Kings and Dehr el Bahri.&#13;
We dined with Mr. Q. and spent the night, having a charming evening there with&#13;
him, and eating up a splendid turkey at dinner.&#13;
 				     Reis Ali went to Assouan to-day.&#13;
SUNDAY JAN 29th&#13;
After the heartiest of breakfasts, we took donkeys to Luxor - to our boat.  Q. coming&#13;
along too, as he was going to Esneh to meet Maspero, to talk over the new appointment&#13;
he has just had - to Sakurah&#13;
Joe made a sketch of the pink mountains - and we lunched on deck and saw the&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Bradley Martin's steam dahabeyah arrive.&#13;
In the afternoon worked at Luxor temple and Corinna came over, and together we called&#13;
on the boat - having previously met Mrs. Martin and her sister Miss Phipps in the&#13;
temple, and walking around with them and their dragoman.&#13;
Dined on the "Bedouin" with Mr. Theodore Davis, and had a most enjoyable time&#13;
and a good dinner - homemade candy being a great treat.&#13;
Met Mr. and Mrs. Newton Stokes, who came up by train this morning and go back tomorrow *night. (inserted below last word of line)&#13;
MONDAY January 30th&#13;
Alobe and Yaaseen - [captain and crew of the Rebecca and Frances] took the painter down&#13;
to Karnak this fine misty morning, and waited there for him, while he&#13;
finished his big picture of the sacred boat.&#13;
Worked also on the new study of the Hypostyle Hall - and at 11.15 left the temple&#13;
crossed the river and at 12.10 was sitting in the "lunch tomb" in the valley of the &#13;
Kings, eating an extraordinarily good cold lunch, with the Bradley Martins, Lord and &#13;
Lady Craven - Miss Phipps, Captain Guest, and Corinna, who had come over with&#13;
them.&#13;
Came over the hill and visited the temple, and got back to the dahabeyah at 4,&#13;
to find her moored in a new place - the water in the old one being too shallow, and&#13;
the boat being very nearly stuck fast.&#13;
Miss Phipps and the Captain came aboard and made a call, and when they left, Mr. and Mrs.&#13;
Stokes came and had tea and saw the babies, when they left, Quibell came also and&#13;
had some, and the "Rameses the great" came up the river, with Emory Gardner aboard,&#13;
and Stoke's younger brother aboard (strikethrough) and other friends   Jeannette was ill to-day and&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Grandma and Grandpa took entire charge of the babies, and made a grand&#13;
success, so tiring out the little things, by a succession of amusements that they&#13;
dropped off to sleep, as soon as their tired little heads touched the pillows, to-night.&#13;
Grandpa and Grandma also, seem to have felt the days exertions.&#13;
  Rebecca took a ride with an unknown admirer - on this donkey this afternoon.&#13;
TUESDAY JAN. 31&#13;
A perfect day.&#13;
The painter worked this morning on his new picture at Karnak, and met Mr. Stokes &#13;
and Mrs. Portlethwaite of Washington there.   Alobe and Yaaseen took him down&#13;
in the small felouka - as usual.&#13;
In the afternoon worked at Luxor temple on the little head of Rameses wife, behind&#13;
his Majesties (sic) left leg, on the statue recently discovered.&#13;
Jeannette getting better, but Corinna had to be on hand all day with the kids.&#13;
Emory Gardner called and had tea this afternoon.&#13;
Seven American flags are flying at Luxor now - six in dahabeyah's and one on&#13;
a camping outfit, near us on this side.&#13;
 		    No word yet from the owner of the "Bijou"&#13;
One month of the new year gone.&#13;
 &#13;
WEDNESDAY FEBRUARY 1st&#13;
Brought home from Karnak to-day the big picture of the sacred boat, from the&#13;
marble (strikethrough) (insert) granite sanctuary, and in the afternoon worked again on Mrs. Rameses and&#13;
finished her - Corinna and the babies went to tea on the "Bedouin" with - Mr. Andrews&#13;
&#13;
Page 71:&#13;
&#13;
Had a long talk to-day with Legrain, who is a most interesting man - concerning the &#13;
the newly appointed Englishman to take Mr. Quibell's place - he spoke feelingly - &#13;
The shadoufs are at work now - passing the water from the excavations, where any time&#13;
now, we may expect to see something - the water runs into the sacred lake.&#13;
  The Martin's dahabeyah went off up the river this morning.&#13;
THURSDAY. Feb 2	 			*Freeda Mond came and played all morning with (inserted marked with a { connecting to inserted line below)&#13;
The painter went this  		*Totsey, and left an invitation for Joe and Corinna (inserted marked with a { connecting to inserted line above)	&#13;
morning to Karnak with Yaseen and Alobe, in the small felouka - and put in a &#13;
long morning's work - on the picture of the Hypostyle Hall, and a new one.&#13;
  - Letter from owner of the "Bijou" to-day - not very satisfactory, but the&#13;
affair is not off, by any means - and the chance of the Fergersons taking the boat for&#13;
a couple or three days (strikethrough) (insert) months, may help us very materialy &#13;
Maspero, came down the river this morning.&#13;
Began a new picture at Luxor temple this afternoon.&#13;
Heard from Charlie Fitz to-day that the Moorish capitals I bought in Seville&#13;
for Mr. Gardner, have arrived all safe and sound.&#13;
Read in the paper to-day that the Emperess Eugenie, sailed yesterday on a dahabeyah&#13;
for Luxor and Assouan - hope we shall see the famous old lady, on her way up.&#13;
Corinna and Dowe (accent) are going through the day's accounts, and the day, which has &#13;
been one of perfect beauty - is done.&#13;
Dowe (accent) gave us a great scare to-night by suddenly introducing into the cabin the&#13;
wild untamed cat, to keep down the mice which are a little too numerous, and are&#13;
beginning to be somewhat destructive   Corinna balanced up accounts to-day and&#13;
&#13;
Page 73:&#13;
&#13;
finds that we are living as we did last month, for just $2.00 a head, which is&#13;
cheaper living that we can do in Boston, and as reasonable as Italy.&#13;
 &#13;
FRIDAY FEB 3th (sic)&#13;
Work went on at Karnak in the morning, and at Luxor temple in the afternoon&#13;
Legrain has found an interesting ancient drain - between the sacred lake and the new&#13;
excavations which he thinks is a very important affair - running to the Nile, and &#13;
used perhaps to drain the lake.   The Longfellows arrived to-day from Assouan.&#13;
The Ferguersons came down the river to-day - sent a telegramm (sic) to the owner of the "Bijou"&#13;
SATURDAY FEB 4th&#13;
An eventful day.  Karnak in the morning.  Luxor in the afternoon.&#13;
Had word from Cairo about the boat, and by two oclock *we (inserted above text line) had made a contract with the Reis&#13;
- for himself and sailors - one with the owner, for the rent of the boat, for two months or more, &#13;
and made arrangements with the Fergusons, so that they took the boat in the afternoon, and&#13;
we find ourselves with two dahabeyah's, four felouka's and twenty one men in our employ.&#13;
The Fergusons take the boat for two weeks from date - and may go up the river to El Kab.&#13;
  In the afternoon Mr. Brown's [Genoa] sister Mrs. Weyermann and her daughter&#13;
and a Miss Bayley, came and had tea, followed later by the Longfellows, and Joe's &#13;
pictures were shown to them.&#13;
Corinna and Joe went to dinner at the Mond's - met M. Naville and his assistant there.&#13;
Had a cable from Mrs. Gardner to-day, saying to buy the Paris tapestry.&#13;
 &#13;
Page 75:&#13;
&#13;
SUNDAY FEB 5th&#13;
Work at Karnak in the morning, with a pleasant half hour with the gay and cheerful&#13;
Director, who is as pleased with his canal, as a child with a new toy.  Went down&#13;
into a damp cold shaft, and observed a sluice like slot, and peculiar joints of the&#13;
well laid masonry.   		     Corinna took a lesson to-day in Arabic writing.&#13;
In the afternoon Joe went to the tombs which Mond discovered and picked out subjects&#13;
for painting - enough to keep him busy for weeks.&#13;
The Quibells returned to-day from Cairo, *&amp; (different symbol inserted above text line) stopped at the dahabeyah for a call, and&#13;
Corinna and Rebecca walked part way across the sand bank with them when they&#13;
started for home.&#13;
Joe called on them later in the afternoon, and had tea, and met the young man who is to&#13;
take Quibell's place - and Mr. Davis - and returned with the latter to the riverside at&#13;
sunset.&#13;
Carter incident most absorbing at present, the young man is in a most unfortunate position&#13;
and the outcome very uncertain, Maspero went down to Cairo by train to try to straighten&#13;
out the affair.&#13;
Our second dahabeyah - crossed the river to-day, and is now anchored near us on this side.&#13;
 &#13;
MONDAY Feb 6th&#13;
The painter went this morning over to Mr. Mond's tombs and walked in the beautiful carved&#13;
one, and with *his (inserted above text line) Reis, went over all his present diggings which are quite extensive this season.&#13;
Saw Mrs. Quibell, and borrowed a drawing board, which she said belonged to Mr. Carter.&#13;
Corinna and Grandma went aboard the "Bijou" and made an inventory of linen and table&#13;
&#13;
Page 77:&#13;
&#13;
things, and gave orders to the Reis to have the boat thoroughly cleaned, during the day.&#13;
The "Safa" came to Luxor to-day behind a steam tug, and we must go and call on&#13;
the Mancriefs to-morrow.&#13;
- Work went on at Luxor temple in the afternoon, and Totly and Tinie in their little&#13;
new blue galabeah's came over with Grandma and Grandpa, later in the afternoon and&#13;
received flattering attention from all the donkey boat (strikethrough)(insert) boys&#13;
The Artist had his hair cut this afternoon, and becomes a human being in appearance&#13;
again, he took tea at Luxor Hotel, with the Fergurons, and came home with Grandma&#13;
-meeting her at the Chemists.&#13;
Mice and Rats, are now becoming troublesome on board the good ship "Abou Simbel" and&#13;
the cat is not earning her salt.&#13;
Crowned heads will soon be here, and the poor Quibell's will be busy taking them around,&#13;
in the bowels of the earth&#13;
Alobe and Grandpa have great fun, when the latter comes aboard the boat after a walk.&#13;
Alobe rushes to get the feather duster, to dust off his dusty shoes, and Grandpa has&#13;
the smallest coin of the Kingdom to hand him as backshees - the joke consists, in Grandpa's&#13;
endeavors to elude the dusting, or to receive it from other hands than Alobe's.&#13;
 &#13;
TUESDAY FEB 7th&#13;
Joe went to Karnak this morning in the little felouka with Alobe and Yaaseen, and at&#13;
12 oclock got back to the dahabeyah and took donkeys with Corinna and went over to &#13;
the Quibells to lunch.&#13;
Grandpa Grandma and Abdalla - left soon after breakfast and walked to Medinet Habou&#13;
&#13;
Page 79:&#13;
&#13;
and the tombs of the Queens, and in one of the latter tombs, Mrs. Quibell was discovered&#13;
painting, and she made them come home with her to luncheon - and there they were&#13;
discovered by Joe and Corinna.&#13;
A very merry luncheon, Mr. Q was very entertaining and we teased him about&#13;
the great people he must look after, next week.&#13;
Joe worked in one of Mond's tombs and Reis Mousa took him later to see four&#13;
mummy cases, which were found this afternoon: - Navielle found some statutes to-day&#13;
also - and Davis thinks he may have come upon Thotmosis II's tomb - over in the&#13;
valley of the Kings - lots doing over this side these days.&#13;
Corinna and Joe called on the Moncriefs late in the afternoon and after dinner&#13;
went over and called on the Davis boat&#13;
The Ferguson's came in and called to-night on (strikethrough)(insert) Mother and Grandpa.&#13;
WEDNESDAY FEB 8th&#13;
Joe went to the tombs, and painted all the morning, and he had the pleasure of&#13;
seeing a mummy case excavated - where Mr. Mond is now digging - it was quite&#13;
an experience, and there is more to come, the Reis says - four have been found&#13;
in two days, and Mr. Mond has been sent for [he went, with his family to Assouan&#13;
three days ago].&#13;
A cold West wind sprang up, soon after midday and the afternoon was uncomfortable&#13;
- The painter worked in Luxor temple.&#13;
Mr. and Mrs. Quibell came in just before dinner, and took over water and hot water&#13;
and whiskey, before riding home across the wind swept plain.&#13;
The "Bijou" sailed up the river to-day just before noonday.&#13;
&#13;
Page 81:&#13;
&#13;
Contract (signed) came from the owner of the "Bijou" to-day - all O.K. and Grandpa&#13;
sent him a registered letter with L (British pound sign) 25, payment for one month.&#13;
Rebecca had a letter to-day - the first the little girl has ever had in Egypt - from&#13;
Mr. Quibell - enclosing two passes to the temples and tombs of Upper Egypt- for herself&#13;
and Tinie.&#13;
Grandpa is beginning "to take notice" in Arabic - and already has quite a little&#13;
vocabulary.&#13;
  A year ago to-day the war began between the Japanese and their great opponent.&#13;
THURSDAY FEB 9th&#13;
Corinna Grandma and Joe went to Karnak this morning in the little felouka,&#13;
and walked home at noonday.&#13;
The picture of the hall - in Luxor temple was finished this afternoon, and the three&#13;
ladies of the Abou Simbel came over to Luxor *later in the afternoon (inserted above text line) - Corinna and Grandma to call on Maspero&#13;
and Jeannette, to go to the Gymkana, with a friend of hers.&#13;
We did not find the great man or Mrs. Maspero, and consoled ourselves with tea in the&#13;
gardens of Luxor Hotel.&#13;
A letter came to-day from Volpi, giving the news of the Piero della Francesca,&#13;
and telling of three other superbe pictures, Prince Barbarini of Rome has decided to dispose&#13;
of - and which have so far escaped being put in the Governments (sic) list.&#13;
Quibell stopped in a moment at lunch time, and we ran him about his nervousness&#13;
concerning the approaching visit of the Dukes.&#13;
Legrain, has asked us to come up to Karnak on Monday night to see some illuminations&#13;
he is going to arrange for the Royalties&#13;
&#13;
Page 83:&#13;
&#13;
Sir Colin Moncrieff, and his party went off up the river this afternoon - disgracefully towed&#13;
by a tug - with a magnificent breeze blowing.&#13;
Grandpa and Abdalla looked after the babies until our return - with great success.&#13;
A gale of wind and bitter cold weather is reported in Cairo to-day, we had some of the&#13;
wind, but the day was warm.&#13;
 &#13;
FRIDAY Feb 10th&#13;
The Painter made an early start this morning, on Hassans (sic) black donkey and got to work in his tomb&#13;
at 8.30, and Grandma and Corinna came over later on donks with the lunch basket, and while&#13;
Grandma and Joe went to see Monds (sic) excavations Corinna cooked a fine luncheon&#13;
Afterwards they went to Der el Bahri, and were shown all over the recent diggings by&#13;
Mr. Ayerton, and Corinna went down a thirty foot deep pit, - the grave of a Pharoe's&#13;
favorite.&#13;
Later we went to the Quibell's to tea, and had to talk French, as Maspero, and the&#13;
French Ambassador and his large family of girls came and swarmed upon us, and there&#13;
was no escape possible.&#13;
Totly and Tinie had callers this morning, Mr. Davis's nieces, who spent all the morning with&#13;
the babies playing in the sand.&#13;
Grandpa busy doing some drawing, off, from a photograph.&#13;
Last night, a mouse upset a plate of apple sauce, *from a shelf (inserted above line of text) part of which fell upon the terrified Artist&#13;
sleeping below.&#13;
  Grandpa set a trap last night, and this morning caught a fine large rat.&#13;
A letter from the Fergusons, telling how pleased they are with life on our boat, the Bijou.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
SATURDAY 11th&#13;
Dowe (accent) went home to Shellal to-day for a short vacation&#13;
The painter worked in his tomb and Grandpa came over later with Alobe, and&#13;
brought lunchon, which we ate in the courtyard of the tomb.&#13;
Mrs. Quibell arrived late in the afternoon with Mrs. Wilson and Miss Legett,&#13;
and Joe went home with them to tea.&#13;
Mr. Quibell went to Edfou to=day to meet the Duke of Connaught.&#13;
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell had a successful lesson to-day.&#13;
SUNDAY 12th&#13;
Joe went to Karnak this morning, and brought home, at 12 - a study of&#13;
a head, of Thutmosis III, which he finished this (strikethrough)(insert) to-day.&#13;
Mrs. Quibell came to luncheon *she went to Cairo in the evening (inserted above line of text) - and brought the startling news that&#13;
Mr. Davis's Reis had gotten down to the door of a tomb, that Mr. Davis&#13;
had sent word, with Maspero's permission to the Duke - to have it opened&#13;
to-morrow in his presence -   To guard the tomb to-night it was&#13;
necessary to have police - gaffirs, and at least one (underlined) European official - and&#13;
Mr. Quibell being away, in attendance on the duke, it fell to Weggall to&#13;
go and spend the night at the tomb's mouth.   He lunched at Davis (sic)&#13;
dahabeyah, and Corinna saw him, and he said he had got to go there&#13;
and rather dreaded it - would feel lonesome etc. etc - she said to him&#13;
that she and Joe would keep him company, and he accepted her proposition&#13;
and so in the late afternoon they both rode over the mountains and met&#13;
the lonesome young inspector - in the impressive valley, and before we had our&#13;
&#13;
Page 87:&#13;
&#13;
supper, we walked up one of the near by hills and saw the light die out of &#13;
the sky, and the moon shine in wondrous splendor - on the enchanting tho (sic)&#13;
desolate, wild and uncanny scene.&#13;
Corinna cooked a fine supper - and after a moonlight walk, up to the&#13;
end of the valley - joined by young Mr. Ayerton, who had come over from&#13;
Dehr el Bahri, to see if he might be of any assistance - we went to&#13;
bed - thinking of the tomb and its contents, we were guarding.&#13;
12 gaffirs, and a native inspectors (sic) slept near by, and the night was &#13;
warm and windless.&#13;
About 12 - we woke up, and took a little walk, in the wonderful moonlight&#13;
- an extraordinary and beautiful effect - the color marvelous, and the&#13;
light and shadow, entrancing.&#13;
Again we slept, and about 4.30, awoke again, and Corinna made tea,&#13;
and after sitting half an hour talking, we walked up the gebel and&#13;
saw the sun rise in glory - we made a long walk of it, into &#13;
another wild valley, towards the West, and then came back to &#13;
some breakfast.  MONDAY (graphic - orange color under black) JANUARY (strikethrough)(insert) FEBRUARY 13&#13;
About 9.15, Mr. Davis came and said that Maspero, had given&#13;
direction that we should go ahead and open the tomb at once, and he &#13;
would presently arrive, and enter it.&#13;
This was done, and with Mr. Weigall, I had the honor of first going way &#13;
down to the lower door - and seeing the amazing sight, of what will probably&#13;
turn out to be one of the richest finds ever made in Egypt, an extraordinary&#13;
&#13;
[Page Blank:]&#13;
 &#13;
Corinna ran into the&#13;
Duke and&#13;
Duchess of Devonshire, who&#13;
were standing at the mouth&#13;
of the tomb waiting with great&#13;
impatience for Maspero to come out&#13;
to take them about&#13;
  a funny rencontre.&#13;
 &#13;
Page 89:&#13;
&#13;
mass of priceless objects - in perfect condition - except for the two mummies,&#13;
which alone have suffered, at the hands of but one (possibly 2) thieves, who&#13;
was (sic) only after the gold in and around the bodies - who did no (underlined) wanton (underlined) harm,&#13;
to anything else - a wonderful, remarkable - astonishing find.&#13;
  Maspero came, and pronounces it remarkable - extraordinary, even in&#13;
his great experience. - He did Corinna the singular honor, of asking Corinna&#13;
to scramble over the walled up doorway - (which had been partly broken down&#13;
4000 years ago by the thieves) and to come into the maze of objects scattered&#13;
about in a chamber (devoid of ornamentation) about 18 x 12, absolutely full (underlined)&#13;
to overflowing of rich rare treasures, packed full -   it was all like &#13;
dreams - &#13;
Quibell should have opened the tomb, but he was stalled at Edfou, and did&#13;
not arrive until after the Ducal Party, had seen it, (about 2.30).  &#13;
Maspero asked Joe, to make a color study of the thing, before anything&#13;
was done - and he went over the mountain to Mond's tomb, and returned&#13;
with a canvass, and made the study, by electric light. (insertion from last page points to start of this line)&#13;
  It has been a day never, never to be forgotten.&#13;
Corinna and Joe, returned at seven oclock pretty well tired out, and&#13;
told everything to the family.&#13;
We walked over the mountain with Quibell and tried to jolly him up be (strikethrough)&#13;
up a bit - his disappointment was great of course, at not being there at&#13;
the beginning.&#13;
Mr. Lennon of Pawtucket had called this afternoon, and other old friends of ours&#13;
&#13;
Page 91:&#13;
&#13;
have arrived and are staying in Luxor.&#13;
Empress Eujenia also arrived, and Mother saw her a number of times to-day&#13;
in the town.  The place reeks with Royalty.&#13;
Professor Sayce has come down in his boat, and three other dahabeyah's&#13;
lie moored near us&#13;
Grandma and Jeanette went to Karnak to-night, and saw the illuminations&#13;
there, gotten up most effectively by Legrain, for the Duke and his party.&#13;
 &#13;
TUESDAY FEB 13 (strikethrough)(insert) 14&#13;
Joe made an early start and arrived at the tomb, in time to begin&#13;
work, with Quibell, Wygall - and Mr. Eliott, - worked there all&#13;
day - an experience of a life time - &#13;
Empress, Eugenia came and Madame Maspero - Prof Sayce, and other&#13;
distinguished and interested people came - Joe has been asked to&#13;
make drawings etc. for the catalogue - &#13;
- Crossed the mountain with Quibell - late in the afternoon - by the&#13;
steep path, and met Corinna, and Mr. Eliott, who had been&#13;
seeing Dehr el Barhi - with Mrs. Eliott, and had met D. Naville&#13;
who had shown them about, their interesting diggings there.&#13;
Tea with Quibell and his guests and home late to dinner.&#13;
Corinna went with Mother over to Luxor Hotel to call on some friends.&#13;
  Quibell told Corinna that he had never had better assistance&#13;
in the work, than Joe had given him, which was great praise&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
WEDNESDAY FEB 15.&#13;
Joe worked all day at the new tomb with Quibell and Weigall, and late in the&#13;
afternoon came home to tea with Mr. Lennon and some other Pawtucket friends *on our boat (inserted above text line), and&#13;
Corinna and he and Grandma and Grandpa dined later with them at the Savoy, and had&#13;
a particularly pleasant time&#13;
The Dukes of Connaught and Devonshire, and their Duchesses, the Prince of Sweeden (sic),&#13;
and various other celebrities came to the tomb to-day, and kept the workers there, from too&#13;
much progress.&#13;
Lunched with Maspero, and Dr. Sayce - at Davis's invitation to-day.&#13;
&#13;
THURSDAY FEB 16&#13;
Joe went early to the tomb and was there all day, most of the time in complete&#13;
charge - as Quibell went off Duking, (by orders of Maspero) and Weigall went&#13;
early - to Luxor - &#13;
The Magazine, was finished this morning and Weigall and Joe, removed most&#13;
everything up out of the tomb, into it, during the early part of the afternoon.&#13;
Mother went to Karnak this morning, and reports that the big picture the Artist was at&#13;
work on - in the Hypostyle Hall - had been removed - probably because there was lots of dust&#13;
blowing these last few days.&#13;
Corinna and Quibell came over the mountain after Sunset, and we all spent the&#13;
night there again guarding the treasures in the hillside&#13;
We had a splendid night, slept splendidly well.&#13;
 &#13;
Page 95:&#13;
&#13;
Friday.  Feb 17&#13;
&#13;
-Worked all the morning in the tomb - got out all the jars, and outer coffins&#13;
of the "old man" and later unwrapped part of him, and found various treasures&#13;
Lunched with Quibell, and in the afternoon resumed the profession of "Painter" and &#13;
worked at Mond's tomb, home later with Q. after tea with him.  Mr. Davis&#13;
joining us.  	  Dowe (accent) returned to us to-day.&#13;
Quibell came in and made a long call after dinner to-night.&#13;
Mother sold a picture to-day to Mrs. Beal of Boston, who came down yesterday on &#13;
the "Puritan" from Assouan, - the picture was the watercolor of the Hypostyle Hall&#13;
at Philae.   Reis Ali came back to the boat to-day (strikethrough)(insert) yesterday, from his long assence (sic).&#13;
 &#13;
SATURDAY - FEB. 18.&#13;
&#13;
Joe went across the fields again this morning, and worked all the morning on the&#13;
charming little boys, bearing presents - in Mond's tomb - and at 12, walked over the&#13;
steep path above Dehr el Bari - and lunched with - Mr. Davis his two nieces and &#13;
Quibell and Weigall, afterwards made pencil drawings of the old couple whose long&#13;
repose we have thus destroyed, did some more catalogue for Q. and made a plan &#13;
diagram of the tomb and its contents, as at first observed by me.&#13;
Sent home word that I would spend the night there with Q. who would have been&#13;
alone.&#13;
After supper we walked up the other valley, which was most impressive in the moonlight,&#13;
- we heard a wolf barking to another, far off, up in the distant ravines&#13;
What a wondrous place it is - &#13;
&#13;
Page 97:&#13;
&#13;
Weigall dined with the family on the dahabeyah, and was very pleasant and&#13;
entertaining, the Fergusons came in to call this evening, and reported details of their &#13;
trip to El. Kab.&#13;
&#13;
SUNDAY FEB 19&#13;
Mr. Davis came aboard to say good bye this morning - and about one oclock&#13;
the breeze (strikethrough)(insert) wind being strong and favorable.  The great white wings of his boat were&#13;
spread to the breeze, and the "Bedouin" sailed away, up to Assouan.&#13;
Joe had a splendid night in the Royal valley, and in the morning did some work&#13;
on the catalogue, and at 11.30, walked up the "workmens path" and down the steeper&#13;
path on the Dehr-el-Bari. side, and over to the tomb, where he is painting, and at&#13;
12.30 took donkey, back to the riverside, to his deserted family.&#13;
Corinna and Joe called and had tea with the McCoys at the "Savoy"&#13;
A box of "Turkish delights" and a note from Mr. Quibell, saying Mrs. Q. had come&#13;
back from Cairo, and asks us to spend one more night in the valley, guarding the &#13;
treasures there.   A week more in beloved Luxor, and then the family in&#13;
their new boat will regretfully leave - the beginning of our homeward journey.&#13;
Quibell was very interesting last night telling about excavations and discoveries&#13;
and giving various details of the history of the Museum, and the men who have&#13;
ruled there.&#13;
 &#13;
MONDAY FEB 20.&#13;
&#13;
The painter went to Karnak in the "Rebecca and Frances" this morning, and found&#13;
that Legrain had removed his picture of the Hypostyle Hall, owning to the illuminations&#13;
&#13;
Page 99:&#13;
&#13;
and other excitements of this last very full and momentous week, the picture was&#13;
found in the magazine.&#13;
Mr. and Mrs. McCoy came to lunch to-day with their little boy Littlefield.&#13;
In the afternoon Joe went to Monds tomb and painted all the rest of the day, and&#13;
after tea, with Ayerton and Weigall - scrambled over the steep path, above Dehr el Bari.&#13;
and at dusk, was joined by Corinna - and with the Quibells spent another fine&#13;
night the wonderful old valley.  Visited Thotmosis IV after Supper, and another&#13;
- Seknekt.   The Whitakers called to-night, finding Grandma and Grandpa *at home. (inserted below line of text)&#13;
A slight flurry of rain drops woke us up in the morning&#13;
TUESDAY FEB 21.&#13;
We helped pack things during the morning.  Corinna and Mrs. Q. taking a walk&#13;
up the West Valley.&#13;
Grandma and Grandpa came over later, and Mr. and Mrs. McCoy, and also to our&#13;
great surprise and pleasure the Whitakers - we showed them all the things.&#13;
Joe walked over the crest of the hill, with the Q's, and lunched with them, &#13;
and painted all the afternoon in the little tomb, - called on the Ormes.&#13;
 &#13;
WEDNESDAY FEB 22&#13;
Joe went to work over in Gourneh, this morning and finished the picture he has been at&#13;
work on in the Tomb (120) back of the Rameseum - lunched with Ayerton at Dehr el&#13;
- Bahri - and in the late afternoon came home. *THE BABIES HAD THEIR HAIR CUT THIS MORNING, AND NOW LOOK LIKE LITTLE BOYS, INSTEAD OF GIRLS (inserted at end of this line and the next two lines - in mostly capital print instead of cursive)&#13;
Corinna and Mrs. Quibell called on Mrs. Legrain to-day.&#13;
Mr. Quibell and Weigall came to lunch.&#13;
 					Corinna and Joe dined with the Whitakers - at Luxor Hotel&#13;
&#13;
Page 101:&#13;
&#13;
THURSDAY FEB 23&#13;
Corinna and Jeanette went over to the tombs of the Kings this morning.&#13;
Joe finished a landscape of the hills - in the beautiful pink morning light&#13;
The McCoys called and invited us to lunch - and Joe accepted and went, and afterwards&#13;
went up to Karnak, in the "scarab" with Mother, and Dowe (accent) and Yaaseen and Esia,&#13;
and they brought home, the big sketch of the Hypostyle Hall.&#13;
Joe went to the Gymnkana with the McCoys for a little while, and then came home to&#13;
tea with the Whitakers - and showed them pictures afterwards, - they were most appreciative&#13;
Corinna and Joe dined with the Fergursons on board the "Bijou", and the sailors did a&#13;
fantasia for our honor and benefit.&#13;
A Mr. and Mrs. Stewart of New York called this evening by appointment and saw the&#13;
pictures.&#13;
These last few nights on the "Abou Simbel" have been made miserable for us all, by&#13;
rats, who have arrived in numbers, like a plague.&#13;
Alobe's mother died yesterday - or the day before - he had a letter to-day, which Yaaseen&#13;
read to him in the tent, and then the poor old boy walked out over the sand all alone&#13;
with his sorrow.&#13;
One of the signs of his mourning, is abstinence of sugar in his coffee.&#13;
 &#13;
Page 103:&#13;
&#13;
FRIDAY FEB 24th&#13;
Joe went to his Gourneh tomb and began a new study this morning, and&#13;
received a visit later from Corinna and Miss Vaughn - who afterwards walked,&#13;
over the pass, and paid a visit to the new tomb.&#13;
Joe packed some things, with the Quibells, and lunched with them, there.&#13;
Corinna and Miss Vaughn went all over *Dehr-el-Barhi (inserted above the text line) with M. Naville and Mr. W.&#13;
  M. and Madame Legrain came to dinner tonight, we sent the Bijou's felouka &#13;
down to meet them.&#13;
Legrain translated the hieroglyphics on the "Armen" and thought it a very fine&#13;
piece of XXVII - the pictures were shown, and seemed to give satisfaction to our&#13;
guests.&#13;
The Fergersons came to tea this afternoon and saw the pictures, and Corinna&#13;
took the babies over to say good bye to the Whitakers&#13;
 &#13;
Page 105: [text changes here - different writer]&#13;
&#13;
Feb. 25th&#13;
 &#13;
Page 106:&#13;
&#13;
	Crew of the "Bijou"&#13;
Machmoud  		Capts. cook&#13;
Ali  		Fahil&#13;
Abaenifi  		Mahomet&#13;
Barberi	 		Ali (singer)&#13;
Seliman (our boy)  	Seliman&#13;
Achmet  		Mochtaf&#13;
 	Yagoob 		2nd Reis&#13;
 	Eq'azi  	1st "&#13;
 &#13;
Page 107:&#13;
&#13;
Feb. 26th&#13;
  All turned out early and packed for a start to Cairo&#13;
The Fergusons gave up at 9 a.m. and the Smiths piled in&#13;
and after paying for the dahabeyah and the inevitable backsheesh&#13;
we cast off at 11-15/.  The upper deck was half full of newly&#13;
backed (sic) bread for the crew.  Mr. McCoy and wife and Mrs. Weigall saw us&#13;
off and as might be known about twenty arabs on the sand.&#13;
Shahi wept with grief at parting and Yaseen with the *Nagada (inserted in the left margin vertically and underlined in line with this line and one other)&#13;
"scarab" accompanied us down to Karnak when he left us&#13;
for his lonely trip back to Shellall.  It has been a very&#13;
quiet warm day and by current and rowing we have made&#13;
about twenty three miles stopping for the night opposite&#13;
Nagarda (sic).  Joe left us to go to the Quibells while we are away, &#13;
and hopes to join us a (sic) Balleniche &#13;
 &#13;
Feb. 27 Left the shore at 6 15/ no wind and&#13;
made a fair voyage here to Dendera (underlined) arriving at about&#13;
3 p.m. A chair was rigged for mother, and donkeys for *Dendara (written diagonally in the left margin in line with this line and two below)*&#13;
the others and off we all old and young scuttled for&#13;
the temple - about two miles.  After a look around and&#13;
enjoying the beautiful works - home we came all a &#13;
little tired - the exertions of yesterday having now put in &#13;
their work.  I for one am about used up H.T.&#13;
&#13;
Page 109:&#13;
&#13;
Feb. 28 Left the shore at 6-15&#13;
no wind - and good current, and after&#13;
grounding but once (and only once so far) we *Dishneh (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and three more below)*&#13;
arrived here a few miles above the rail-road&#13;
bridge at sun down.  The day has been very&#13;
warm and pleasant and the sundownes are glorious&#13;
about 30 miles today.  C. and I took a little walk&#13;
back of a low mud village accompanied by three&#13;
of the crew on our return Doe (accent) met us and remarked&#13;
that it was not a safe place for tourists to be-alone.&#13;
 &#13;
March 1st Picked up our stakes at 6.15 as yesterday.&#13;
Vairable (sic) head wind - mostly strong, this with&#13;
shoal water made our days (sic) work very small.&#13;
We arrived at the R.R. bridge about noon-moored *Kalid (inserted in left margin diagonally in line with this line and two others)&#13;
and waited for the draw to open, after one slip up&#13;
at which Corinna expostulated we seized the next&#13;
and dropped through but owing to bad wind we&#13;
moored again - startled at about 5 - made two miles&#13;
and moored again *for the night (inserted above line) - the (sic) telegraphed Joe that we&#13;
would be at Baleishny early tomorrow - Impkins - &#13;
2nd reis reports loss of $18 - while purchasing sugar cane.&#13;
&#13;
Page 111:&#13;
&#13;
March 2 Left Kalid early in morning&#13;
No wind and fair drifting.  At or near&#13;
Abaiyeh we were interested in seeing the&#13;
Villagers assembled on the shore to assist *Balliania (inserted in left margin vertically in line with this line and with the next three)*&#13;
in finding the body of one drowned.&#13;
An exciting time for a while caused by a tug towing &#13;
a dahabieyh down - getting aground - and letting&#13;
the boat drift down so as to nearly collide with&#13;
us who at that moment touched bottom.&#13;
Arrived at Balaiena about sun down.&#13;
 &#13;
March 3&#13;
  Packed a camel with tent etc and Mother&#13;
Corinna &amp; (diff symbol) yours truly put off for abydos - arv. 11 a.m. *Girgeh (inserted diagonally left margin in line with text and continuing two more lines)*&#13;
pitched the tent in front yard - Mr. Quibell&#13;
having sent word to the guards to look out for&#13;
us - (one came to Abydos (strikethrough)(insert) Baleine last night to report it.)&#13;
On the way over &amp; (diff symbol) back we were escorted by a &#13;
Greek gentleman - a contractor to build a road - &#13;
- way to Abydos.  - No word from Joe.  It being a &#13;
calm day we thought best to go on to Akhmin at&#13;
east - so left Doe (accent) &amp; (diff symbol) started about 2 p.m and arrived&#13;
at Girgeh about 6&#13;
&#13;
Page 113:&#13;
&#13;
March 4th Left, Girgeh at 6 a.m. with a good&#13;
south wind until about 11 a.m.  Made Atkhmin&#13;
at about 12.30.  Abdallah and I went to the&#13;
town and found that there was no telegraph&#13;
office in town all messages coming from - Sohag &#13;
about 5 miles farther down.  So after a ramble in the&#13;
country with Abdallah (who got lost) we up stakes *Sohag (inserted diagonally along left margin in line with this line and two others).*&#13;
and made for Sohag where we are to spend the&#13;
night.  The reis's reason *given (inserted above text) being no good landing farther&#13;
down and he wanted to clear up the wash which&#13;
had been lying around loose for several days - the&#13;
real reason was that he had friends here that&#13;
he wished to and did see.&#13;
  A boy called with a message from Joe&#13;
forwarded by Dowie which the boy had&#13;
carried to Atkhmin and back saying that&#13;
Joe was to come to Abydos next Tuesday&#13;
So it was as well that we started on and&#13;
made so much headway towards Cairo although&#13;
we miss the painter man very much.&#13;
The reis says god willing we start early and&#13;
have a south wind tomorrow and reach&#13;
Tahtah our next stop, ordered mail to be held Cairo.&#13;
&#13;
Page 115:&#13;
&#13;
March 5 Started at usual time but had&#13;
not made a mile away before the northerly&#13;
wind commenced and forced us to go ashore *opp. Sohag (inserted vertically in margin)&#13;
about two miles below and opposite Sohag&#13;
where we spent the day and night.&#13;
  Sorry that we started as Sohag is the most &#13;
pleasant looking town we have seen since Cairo.&#13;
  The family wrote a combination letter&#13;
to Lois to be forwarded to Aunty.&#13;
Madams (sic) rash does not seem to trouble her much today.&#13;
 &#13;
March 6   Cast off at Six a.m.&#13;
  Rowed for about five hours and made &#13;
about eight miles when the wind having *Tuah (*inserted diagonally in margin)&#13;
become too fresh for us we tied up to a &#13;
mud bank on the West side near a small&#13;
village said to be Tuah.&#13;
  The wind died down about five o'clk&#13;
and on requesting the reis to row for an hour&#13;
or so he was so much concerned at our&#13;
displeasure that he left the ship.  However we&#13;
live in hopes of a better day tomorrow.&#13;
&#13;
Page 117:&#13;
&#13;
March 7   Started 5.45 a.m.&#13;
No wind and a quiet sea for about&#13;
two hours when the wind increased so&#13;
that we made for shore in a hurry *Near Tahtah (inserted in left margin diagonally in line with this line and three below)&#13;
about three miles South of Tartah (I wish  &#13;
had caught it) about noon.&#13;
  It has been blowing hard all the after-&#13;
noon.  The reis was disgruntled because of&#13;
yesterdays work but the promise of a sheep&#13;
at Assiout has put him in good humor.&#13;
 &#13;
March 8&#13;
   Like the King of France with &#13;
his 40,000 men, we started on time, went *Near Tahtah (inserted left margin diagonally in line with this line and three below)&#13;
about a quarter of a mile and then&#13;
moored again.&#13;
  This day has been like one of our&#13;
blizzard days, with sand instead of snow&#13;
  Sent a man to Tahtah for mail&#13;
etc. he spent the whole day and brought no&#13;
mail.  He secured some pretty bad butter.&#13;
  Promised the crew a sheep but found prices&#13;
to (sic) high here so did not secure one.  (2 1/2 guineas)&#13;
&#13;
Page 119:&#13;
&#13;
March 9   Started at 6 a.m.&#13;
Wind light but gradually freshened&#13;
through the day but not as strong as before *near Rahineh (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and three more below)&#13;
we hope it has blown out.&#13;
  At about five p.m. we arrived here a&#13;
short way s. of Raheineh which the reis refused&#13;
to pass it being " a stopping place - we hope to&#13;
reach Assiout and letters tomorrow p.m.&#13;
 &#13;
 &#13;
March 10   Although the reis promised us to &#13;
make a very early start - he did not get us off&#13;
any earlier than usual. *Near Assiout (inserted in left margin diagonally in line with this line and four others) &#13;
 The day opened fine and quiet, but there did&#13;
not seem to be much snap (underlined) about the crew and so&#13;
we dawdled along and reached within say two&#13;
miles of Assiout when we made fast to the shore&#13;
This means a day visiting friends for the crew.  I guess.&#13;
  The reis has a painful smelling on the palm of his&#13;
hand and consequently is not in the best of humor.&#13;
  Mothers rash is troubling her almost unbearably&#13;
I have it a little and we think the children have it also.&#13;
Mr. Davis towed past us to-day going towards Cairo. A fantasia on deck.&#13;
&#13;
Page 121: &#13;
&#13;
March 11  Started early, no wind and a &#13;
quiet sea and reached Assuit about eight&#13;
A.M. Mother Corinna Totsy *Abdallah (inserted above line) and I took a carriage&#13;
and rode up to the town - quite a distance (two miles)&#13;
no telegrams but a number of letters - two from Joe&#13;
which pleased the family - Telegraphed him to meet us *Assiout - (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and two others below)&#13;
at Moutfalul (also Harry Greene) where we expect to be&#13;
Monday sure.  Abdallah spent most of the day in town&#13;
hunting for bread without success.  Mother got some medicine.&#13;
 About 3 p.m. we started for the bridge, but did not&#13;
arrive in time to get through.  No sheep yet. - a Fantasia - &#13;
 &#13;
March 12   Got through bridge 6.30 no wind&#13;
  Found a mud bank and kedged (underlined) off.&#13;
Bad water for navigation and twists and turns in&#13;
the river.  Fetched up here at a small village called&#13;
Iboub in an eddy which held us as though aground *Iboub (inserted in left margin diagonal in line with this line and one below)&#13;
wind blowing hard but moderated about 5 - when&#13;
we hauled down near the town where there is a &#13;
better water for a start tomorrow.  No sheep.&#13;
 &#13;
Page 123:&#13;
&#13;
March 13   Started on time as usual&#13;
with a light wind from the north&#13;
About 8:30 some one hailed us from the shore&#13;
and it proved to be Doe (accent) who afterwards said&#13;
that Mr. Joe was at the Sheiks (sic) house eating&#13;
his breakfast.  We moored to the shore at the&#13;
village of Beni (underlined) Hasan (underlined).  Joe came aboard&#13;
and said that they had come to Moatferut the day&#13;
before and rode on donkeys upstream to meet us *Montferut (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and three more below)*&#13;
and getting to Beni Hassan too late to return the sheik&#13;
put them up for the night.  The whole family except&#13;
Tiney made a call on the Moudir who returned it&#13;
by accompanying us through the crowd - it was market&#13;
day) to the boat when we continued our voyage and&#13;
arrived opposite Montferut in P.M. - Joe and Doe (accent)&#13;
went over and procured a camel and donkeys&#13;
and brought them down to the boat where we are&#13;
moored for the night.&#13;
  Captain reports "bad water" ahead and he&#13;
did not wish to make a start late today&#13;
C. hurt her finger in the window&#13;
Mother is better of her rash.&#13;
We are all well pleased to be all together again.&#13;
&#13;
Page 125:&#13;
&#13;
March 14   Off early with a good water and&#13;
no wind to speak of.  We made a very good&#13;
run of about thirty miles and put in opposite *El Amani (inserted vertically in left margin three lines)&#13;
El Amarna at dusk.&#13;
  It has been a most enjoyable day - then &#13;
most of the way the river runs close to the mountain cliffs.&#13;
 &#13;
March 15   Started as usual, no wind and&#13;
made got (sic) sailing until near Rhoda when the wind freshened&#13;
and we remained nearly stationary in mid channel from&#13;
one to three o'clk. Joe and Dowe (accent) went ashore at the&#13;
ruins on Antionopolis and gathered a number of "antiques"&#13;
  Our crew have demonstrated today more openly *about 4 miles N. of Rhoda (inserted vertically left margin in line with this line and continues for five other lines)&#13;
what we have conjectured before that they were bound&#13;
to make our trip down as long as possible and that&#13;
the reis could not control them.  We think it is his&#13;
interest to hurry but he has said some nasty&#13;
things in our presence which were translated to us.&#13;
  We hailed the tug that took Mr. Davis down&#13;
but he refused to take us down So Janette went&#13;
over to train for Cairo and will try to send a tug up and &#13;
meet us on the river.  Four of crew say they are disabled.&#13;
&#13;
Page 127:&#13;
&#13;
15th continued - Doe (accent) with a gaffer from the Sheikh&#13;
and a pistol strapped around him and Janette&#13;
went up the bank to take donkeys for the 1/2 hour trip to&#13;
the Station - the natives crowded around and wondered&#13;
Why one (underlined) donkey was not sufficient to take both together with&#13;
the valise but as there was neither stirrups nor bridle they&#13;
both objected.  However off they got and about 10 Doe (accent)&#13;
returned and reported all was well.  The Sheik after sending&#13;
off the guard with them came on board and asked for some&#13;
medicine for a severe stomach-ache he had.  Mother got out&#13;
her Jamaica ginger and gave it to him - afterwards we&#13;
found the ache was in his cow.&#13;
 &#13;
March 16 Up and off as usual, no wind&#13;
Met a (strikethrough)(insert) Crew worked a little better than yesterday *Near Mineyh (inserted left margin diagonally in line with this line and five others below)*&#13;
About noon we made Mineyh and on the bank,&#13;
we saw Harry Greene pacing up and down with a&#13;
handkerchief for a turban - he having lost his hat in&#13;
the cars and we were very glad to see him and made him&#13;
welcome.  Janette telegraphed that her train being 5 hours&#13;
late she could not report then, but later sent word that a&#13;
tug was on the way for us.  We left Mineyh at 4 and&#13;
moored about 6 three (strikethrough)(insert) miles farther up A Fantasia going on now.&#13;
&#13;
Page 129:&#13;
&#13;
March 17   Off as usual, no wind, crew worked &#13;
better probably in hopes of more backsheesh, as this is *above Maghadah below (inserted diagonally in left margin in line with this line and four below)*&#13;
the last day for them to work in case the tug came up&#13;
  Soon after starting a South West wind came up&#13;
and we bowled along finely so that by sun down&#13;
or a little before we had gone about 44 miles&#13;
&#13;
March 18   Started on time and by eight&#13;
o'clk we caught a mild Southerly wind which&#13;
was just enough to encourage the men not to row&#13;
but by ten o'clk we made six miles or so&#13;
  On approaching Fachen we were hailed from the&#13;
shore by the Captain of the tug Arrow which had&#13;
come up for us but could not pass the numerous *El. Helf (inserted vertically left margin in line with text and two below)*&#13;
boats that were stuck in the channel (including a&#13;
post boat going down) at the same place we had so &#13;
much trouble in five years ago.  However by skillfull&#13;
management on our part we got by took the tug and&#13;
proceeded a mile or two when we got into another like&#13;
mess but finally got off and finally we put up here&#13;
for the night having made some fifty three or more miles&#13;
  The south wind continues which helps us some and&#13;
we expect to arrive in Cairo tomorrow/Sunday P.M. Early &#13;
&#13;
Page 131:&#13;
&#13;
March 19   Started at 6 a.m. Strong wind&#13;
from the north all day but made good sailing&#13;
  The tug found a native boat across the channel and&#13;
so ran aground, we drawing less water passed along&#13;
side of her and fetched up on the bank.  Our crew&#13;
and male passengers went ashore and hauled the&#13;
tug off after some delay when we proceeded and&#13;
reached our berth below the great bridge about&#13;
three P.M. Much excitement in passing through&#13;
the draw, a large fleet of natives using it at the&#13;
same time Oaths etc was freely used and no accidents&#13;
happened. We are moored just above the Gh(?)(strikethrough)&#13;
Ghezirah Palace Hotel.  Mr. Davis just below us&#13;
J etc. called on the Longfellows.&#13;
Thus ends the voyages on the Nile for&#13;
the Smith family for the season</text>
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                <text>1904-1905</text>
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              <text>Page Blank (folder title):&#13;
&#13;
Log of the "Stella"&#13;
1906./7&#13;
&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank (inside folder):&#13;
Ya Mahomet Ya Habeebe&#13;
  Ya Mohamet &#13;
  rowing ahead&#13;
(Horizontal line across)&#13;
Ul lar ho yallah&#13;
Hully yallah &#13;
  (rowing backward)&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
&#13;
Diary 2&#13;
&#13;
Travel to Egypt, 1906-1907&#13;
&#13;
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   Voyage of the "Stella". (graphic)&#13;
   FROM CAIRO TO LUXOR AND&#13;
   RETURN TO CAIRO, WINTER&#13;
   OF&#13;
   1906-1907. (graphic)&#13;
&#13;
Grandfather, Grandmother, Joe and Corinna, Rebecca and Frances, and Jeanette&#13;
arrived in Egypt from Veince (sic) November 4 1906.  Some of us stayed in &#13;
Cairo.  The rest at Helouan, while Grandfather and Joe hunted for Dahabeyah's&#13;
up and down the banks of the nile - plenty of Dahabeyah's - but all too dear&#13;
for us - at last when Joe had planned to go to Assouan to take the old&#13;
"Abou Simbel", we heard through Michael Casira a Greek Antiquity&#13;
merchant in Cairo, that a countryman of his one, Georges Spiliotti had&#13;
a good boat the price of which came some where near our figures - and&#13;
while Joe and Corinna were at Sakkara, spending Sunday with the Quibell's&#13;
Grandfather went to see the boat, and telegraphed to Joe, that it was a&#13;
lucky find.&#13;
  The "Stella" is much bigger than any boat we have ever had before&#13;
and there is plenty of room in her for us all, with a possible guest - &#13;
Rebecca is to have a room to herself opposite Grandfathers, while Frances and&#13;
Jeanette have the large room in the stern.&#13;
The Greek Spiliottis - is a sharp, hard, miser, and a Greek to boot, a &#13;
combination hard to beat, and we didn't beat him - after many interviews&#13;
in his shop [opposite Shepheard's] we at last came to an understanding and&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
&#13;
  Dowie came Nov. 9&#13;
Achmat (strikethrough last letter) (insert) n and Abdalla came Nov 21&#13;
Took boat Nov 17 went aboard Nov. 17&#13;
Left Cairo 28th&#13;
 &#13;
Sofay Dowie 6 L (pound)&#13;
Abdul Achman 2	" (all three lines connected with horizontal line like  *and food 11 PT per diem for all&#13;
 Paid 1 month in full to Dec. 21 (third line)&#13;
Mahomet 1 " 			&#13;
&#13;
Abdallah 1 1/2 L (pound) including food&#13;
&#13;
(Line across page horizontally cutting through text "at End")&#13;
Mch 21 due men Aharee (?) 6 -&#13;
 		Achmim (?) 2		 		Dowie 19.5 per diem Selfr (? cut off page)&#13;
 		Mahomet 1		 		" 11-			" food&#13;
 		Adallah 1 1/2		 		Achmem 6.5		"&#13;
 		Food 330		 		Mahomet 3.5		"&#13;
 		(horizontal line)	 		Adallah 5.		"&#13;
 		10 1/2 + 330		 		(horizontal line)&#13;
 		3	37		 		45.5 PT&#13;
 		(Horizontal Line)	 		paid workers 25 to March 21 &#13;
 		13 1/2 L (pound) + 37 P.T&#13;
&#13;
Dahabieyh at rate of 430 (strikethrough)(insert above) 60 P.T per diem from Mch 25 to Apl 10 15 da (page cut off - days?)&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank: (page ripped on left margin in way of text)&#13;
&#13;
the price agreed upon L (pound symbol) 160 for four months *from Nov 17 (inserted above text line) - and Joe and Grandpa&#13;
drew up the contract, which was more formal than heretofore, having&#13;
various lawyerlike clauses, and items such as "In consideration of" etc etc&#13;
suggested by Mr. Blanchard, the kind and very obliging American Antiquity&#13;
Merchant, near neighbor of the Greek.&#13;
  Then the contract was signed and sealed, in the presence of&#13;
Blanchard and Mr. Kitikas.. another Antiquity man, in the catters&#13;
[illegible] op - impressive spectacle, and then some tiresome days waiting about&#13;
[illegible] on the boat, while the Ramadan festival ended and Byuram began, and&#13;
[illegible] dawdling ways of the Orient prevailed, and our words of hustle were&#13;
[illegible] ied and of no avail - the pump didn't work, three windows, only&#13;
[illegible] easted of sashes - two wouldn't open - one wouldn't shut, likewise&#13;
[illegible] doors would fly open - or couldn't be made to - the bathtub was a disgrace&#13;
[illegible] usual and the pantry fearful - the collection of plates and dishes&#13;
[illegible] forks and knives etc was a surprise - fairly complete - and sheets and&#13;
[illegible] ter linen more or less abundant, [probably less, as I who write there&#13;
[illegible] es, am a man] &#13;
[illegible] dining-sitting room was presently fixed up, and made extremely&#13;
[illegible] elty and homelike, and very spacious it looks, after those of our other&#13;
[illegible] ar little ships - Abou Simbel - Ameer el Wuz, etc.&#13;
[illegible] Dowe (accent) Mahommed, the same sweet faced Dowe (accent) came to Cairo on the&#13;
[illegible] 9th Nov&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
&#13;
and was present at bargain and finished trade - and with Grandpa&#13;
bought the bulk of our stores, while Grandma and Corinna looked afer&#13;
the "Fleurent" items, which came to about $160.&#13;
Abdulla and Abdulrachman arrived on the 21st and with them came *The dead woman (inserted horizontally in two lines on left margin/page in two lines)&#13;
the "old folk's spring beds, and the babies bath tub - we were then&#13;
ready to start up the river - but delays prevented, and yet, more&#13;
delays [we never got off so quickly though]&#13;
At last on Friday *23 (inserted above line of text) we left the bank and waited an hour near *1st day 13 miles (inserted horizontally in margin two lines of text) &#13;
Giserah for two of the crew, and about 3.30 reached Helouan, from&#13;
whence the voyage was really to commence.&#13;
The little people, with Corinna and Jeanette, came on board next morning,&#13;
and our departure was delayed, by the non appearance, of the small felluka&#13;
with the head, which was to have followed us, from Cairo, with the&#13;
second Reis and two more crew.  Frances was recovering from a&#13;
slight illness, and we were just as well pleased to stay one night, more&#13;
within a Doctors reach.&#13;
  On Sunday, November, 25 we began the Voyage&#13;
with the following crew.		 	Hassam	X  *1st (strikethrough)(insert)3rd (inserted in left margin diagonally in three lines)&#13;
  Reis Mahommed Inowe (accent on w)	 	Hassam&#13;
  II Reis Ausmann 			 	Saide	X&#13;
  Nefadi				 	Mahomet			(Line drawn to connect these words } in a list vertically and says) *left at &#13;
  Yuseff 				  	Ibrahim 	x							     Darr-Muass &#13;
  cook Abdelal			  	Mahomet Kher 									Dec 16&#13;
					 	Sadeek&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
We came to anchor at sundown, near Es=Saf, and the next day&#13;
Monday 26th, a strong South wind kept us all day lying there in *4th day 19 miles (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines of text)&#13;
a poor position - which we bettered towards sunset, by crossing the &#13;
river - a fierce rain squall was an unpleasant feature of the &#13;
afternoon.&#13;
&#13;
Tuesday 27th. South wind.  Joe and Corinna, Rebecca and Grandma,  *5th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)&#13;
and Dowe (accent), took a long walk, and we spent a lazy day at&#13;
Kafr=Amar  	Remar [illegible]&#13;
  (switches author) (author =) Dowie found at Cairo a small boy named &#13;
Mahomet Abdul Rasull from Shellal whose&#13;
uncle had left him alone in Cairo and gone&#13;
to Alexandria The boy wanted to go home and&#13;
we consented to take him - Later we found &#13;
that he could read and write Arabic and was&#13;
very smart and quick to learn - &#13;
  Abdallah put in an appearance one day only&#13;
and then took to his bed where he stayed in&#13;
the dark until tonight when it was decided to&#13;
send him home as far as Luxor with Joe who&#13;
went on the night train.&#13;
&#13;
Wednesday 28 Another day with a south wind *6th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Thursday 29th Another day of South wind *7th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)&#13;
We are getting rather tired of this place&#13;
Only small villages near, and poor place for&#13;
supplies - Market day today &amp; (diff symbol) Dowie is up trying to&#13;
get some milk etc - The Reis has finished his&#13;
awning &amp; (diff symbol) so much is done &amp; (diff symbol) well - In hopes&#13;
of a good day tomorrow the day closes ---(one line)&#13;
 &#13;
Friday 30th And another day at Kafr-Amar *8th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)&#13;
Strong wind storm from the south.&#13;
The crew are getting uneasy at the delay as&#13;
they are hired for a month only (as we suppose)&#13;
and as they mostly live up the river they wish&#13;
the extra time after arriving at Luxor, to be with&#13;
their homes.  Yesterday the writer amused himself&#13;
making a box for Joes canvasses (sic) and today &#13;
he made Giney's house - of cardboard - but no&#13;
sooner was it done than she wanted - front door&#13;
chimney - glass windows - steps - bath tub for dolls&#13;
etc - truly one want makes another.&#13;
Dowie made a trip to Wastor for bread.  Rained again&#13;
last night.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Saturday Dec. 1st   This day opens with a *9th Day 1 mile (inserted in two lines in left margin)&#13;
beautiful sunrise and a light wind from&#13;
the South which however soon died out&#13;
and the men took to tracking at 7.30 a.m.&#13;
12 o'clk The South wind overtook us and at&#13;
this hour we find ourself looking out of &#13;
a window at the mud bank at which we&#13;
are moored only about a mile from our&#13;
starting place.  *West bank (inserted at end of line in smaller text)&#13;
	And the day ends under the lea of the&#13;
same mud bank - &#13;
&#13;
Sunday Dec. 2nd *8 (strikethrough)(insert) 10th day 1 mile (inserted in left margin in two lines)&#13;
  Today we made about another&#13;
mile - and such is the way of living on the Nile.&#13;
 &#13;
Monday Dec 3rd *9 (strikethrough)(insert) 11th day 1 mile (inserted in two lines in left margin)&#13;
  This day commenced fair with &#13;
no wind at all until about 3 P.M. when&#13;
a light breeze from the north set in but soon &#13;
died out after our start and this night we&#13;
are moored - on an island across the river about&#13;
half a mile from the start. *West bank (inserted at end of line smaller text)&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Tuesday Dec. 4th And another south wind *10 (strikethrough)(insert over the zero a two) 12th day (inserted in left margin horizontally one line of text)&#13;
  Its getting monotonous.  Dowie walked up&#13;
to Rikka (across the river) to send a tel. to Joe&#13;
but it was refused as orders were that that&#13;
office was "closed to European Correspondance" (sic) &#13;
  Must try tomorrow at Wasta if we get there.&#13;
Mother and the Kids playing cards at my table don't&#13;
improve my handwriting.&#13;
 &#13;
Wednesday Dec. 5 Day opens with the *11 (strikethrough)(insert the three over the one) 13th day 2 miles (inserted in left margin)&#13;
usual South wind - About 9 a.m. it died&#13;
out and the men took to tracking and - &#13;
we made another mile. *or so (inserted in line) - Rain - &#13;
  We sent Dowie and Yuseff to Wasta to&#13;
try to get a telegram to Joe and find&#13;
more bread etc. Expect him back by midnight.&#13;
  The Reis says that this weather&#13;
was expected at Cairo and that Prof&#13;
Syce and others were waiting for it&#13;
to blow out - We are ahead of them&#13;
and saving hotel bills in Cairo, if that is&#13;
any consolation.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Thursday Dec. 6.   Day opens with *12 (strikethrough)(insert four over the two) 14th day (inserted in left margin horizontally)&#13;
a strong wind from the South - dust&#13;
storm and so passes the day.&#13;
  Dowie returned about 4 P.M. - over a day&#13;
waiting to hear from Joe - no answer to&#13;
our telegram - don't understand it.&#13;
We must wait until we get to Feshen&#13;
  Hassan was possessed with the "spirit" of&#13;
the devil and the others made him go to&#13;
sleep in the little fellucca - G'Ma was some&#13;
what alarmed but we heard nothing more.&#13;
&#13;
Friday Dec 7   Day opens still and fair with *15th day 15 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally in two lines of text)&#13;
light air from the west and ran out anchor several&#13;
times along the river and finally put out the sails and&#13;
now 11 a.m. making headway up the river.&#13;
  Mr. Davis's boat is being towed past us&#13;
going up - too far off to recognize anyone but &#13;
a handkerchief was waved from a window.&#13;
  We hope the hoo-doo is broken.&#13;
We made about 10 (strikethrough)(insert five over zero) 5 miles today and banked a few miles &#13;
above Wasta - East bank.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Saturday Dec. 8.   The day opens fair *16th day 46 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally two lines of text)&#13;
with a good wind from the North which&#13;
kept increasing until it was almost a&#13;
gale and which bowled us along finely&#13;
and we reached Fechen by 6 o'clk P.M.&#13;
  We found postal card at P.O. from Joe&#13;
mailed some letters and telegraphed to Joe&#13;
to answer at Mahagalh &#13;
&#13;
Sunday Dec. 9   Day opens fair but no wind *17th day 19 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally two lines)&#13;
Some trouble getting an early start.&#13;
10.45 we made a start with a fair wind and&#13;
reached Mahaglia at 3.15 where we found a post &#13;
card and a telegram from Joe giving us two weeks&#13;
later news from him - from thence with a gailing (sic) wind &#13;
we fetched up at Sharona about 6 miles farther on -&#13;
after dark. Being tired of doing nothing the old&#13;
folks went to bed early and so ends this day.&#13;
 &#13;
Monday Dec 10   The day opened quiet at Sunrise *18th day 1 mile (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)&#13;
A heavy mist set in with air from the South.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Dec 10.   Mother picked up a Coptic friend in a *18th continued (inserted in left margin horizontally one line of text)&#13;
white nightgown who escorted her through the&#13;
village and visited two of the churches &amp; (diff symbol) a&#13;
private house.  I and Dowie in the mean&#13;
time was interviewing two of the Sheiks.&#13;
  About 12.30 the men took to tracking&#13;
and at present writing are making fair time.&#13;
  I think the crew have a sheep somewhere about.&#13;
1 P.M. stopped tracking and tied up.&#13;
The sheep above mentioned turns out to be a fish a&#13;
yard long, which one of the sailors caught.&#13;
  Progress about half a mile.&#13;
And here we rest for the night unless a good&#13;
wind comes &amp; (diff symbol) if so the reis will put out.&#13;
 &#13;
Dec 11th Tuesday   No wind all day * 19th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line of text)&#13;
  Charcoal getting short, not able to find any.&#13;
  Corinna and Jeanette went to Am. Church&#13;
(Presbyterian) this evening, by invitation.&#13;
  Four watchmen kept guard all night unbeknown  &#13;
to us and kept G'Ma awake by crackling of their fire.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Monday Dec 12   Day opened still but at 9 o'clk *20th day 34 miles (inserted left margin horizontally two lines)&#13;
with increasing north *west (inserted above line) wind we start.&#13;
After working hard poleing and light winds help &#13;
about 9 o'clk we made just a few miles&#13;
below Minea.&#13;
 &#13;
Thursday Dec 13   Fair and still until *21st day 20 miles 172 miles from Cairo (inserted in left margin in four lines horizontally)&#13;
10.30 when a good wind came up and&#13;
we made a start.  12.30 arrived at Mineah&#13;
and as we are out of charcoal, are obliged&#13;
to stop and mourn to see the good wind go&#13;
bye - and for us wasted - Malish - &#13;
  Stones are bought by both Crew &amp; (diff symbol) passengers&#13;
and at 2 P.M. we are again off for Luxor.&#13;
At 7.30 we moored about a mile above&#13;
Beni Hassan &amp; (diff symbol) on the west bank&#13;
 &#13;
Friday Dec 14.   Day opens fair. H.A.U.Co. Str *22nd day 25 miles (inserted in left margin horizontally in two lines)&#13;
Nubia went up early this a.m. towing a native boat.&#13;
8.45 am. we start tracking - to get around a curve.&#13;
Fair wind all day but very crooked river.  Made landing about&#13;
two miles above Tel el Amarna.  At 8 o'clk all a-bed except Jeanette.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
*at village called Miecis Gisis (?)(strikethrough M.G.)(insert) Deir Mues or Daer Muass (written in two lines above striked out text)&#13;
Saturday Dec. 15th   Mostly a still day *23rd day no crew that would work -still- no wind (inserted in left margin horizontally in six lines)&#13;
what wind there was was Southerly&#13;
The men refused to track and nothing&#13;
was to be done but to wait wait, wait.&#13;
 &#13;
Sunday Dec. 16th.   Day opens quiet - no wind *24th day no crew that would work Dier Mues no wind still (inserted horizontally in left margin in seven lines)&#13;
We ask the Captain to have the boat moved&#13;
a short distance up stream to a better place&#13;
as this bank we are at is high *and dusty (inserted above line) and hard&#13;
to climb.  Three of the men absoluely refuse&#13;
to work - claiming a money dispute and when&#13;
the Capt threatens to discharge them at once&#13;
most (strikethrough)(insert) 4 others of (strikethrough) the (strikethrough) others (strikethrough) say they would be afraid to&#13;
go on without them and they would leave.&#13;
  So of our crew of 12 we have the two Reis's&#13;
two sailors - cook and our own men *&amp; (diff symbol) 4 doubtful (inserted at end of line)&#13;
  And here we are, the Reis has gone to a&#13;
village some way off to see the Moudir&#13;
and see what can be done.&#13;
  Hope we will leave no trouble but am ready&#13;
for it if it must come.  Inshallah&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Sunday Continued&#13;
Dec. 16   Instead of paying the men 1 1/2 L (British pound) the Moudir *24th day Continued (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)&#13;
ordered that they be paid 100 (100 written over 100 to clarify number) P.T. and discharged&#13;
which leaves us here short of men to get to&#13;
Assiout and for which we blame the Moudir in as&#13;
much as the mens time of one month had not&#13;
expired.  If we get a good wind we will try to&#13;
get to Assiout where with the help of a sheep&#13;
and a new crew which the Capt. will get we&#13;
hope to continue our voyage.&#13;
&#13;
Monday 17   This day opens quiet with light S. to E. *25th day no crew Deir Mues - still little wind - (inserted horizontally left margin four lines of text)&#13;
winds and so continues through the day.&#13;
This makes 8 days sailing&#13;
  1 " at Helwan&#13;
  16 " idle or tracking a mile or so say in all 6 miles&#13;
(horizontal line)&#13;
25	Idle 11 ds. in succession &#13;
I think the days we lie here - no men or they refusing to&#13;
work should be deducted from our time at the end if&#13;
we so desire.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Tuesday Dec. 18   One month of boat gone and we are *26th day no crew 5 miles Dier Mues &amp; (diff symbol) Sierout after we had left wind came from north (inserted horizontally in left margin 9 lines)&#13;
still at Deir Mues. Dowie and the gov. decide to go&#13;
to Assuit and try to get word to Joe - train goes at 11.45&#13;
but is 1 1/2 hours late.  We arrived at Luxor (strikethrough)(insert) Assuit with a&#13;
sailor whom the Capt. sent to get more crew - I doubt his&#13;
finding them.  We got about 40 letters and several of&#13;
Sais's clippings - no word from Joe later than Dec. 5.&#13;
  Dowie &amp; (diff symbol) I come back arriving at Deir Moes at about&#13;
9 P.M. - no Yusseff &amp; Capt. who agreed to meet us there - we&#13;
got a boy &amp; (diff symbol) a gaffir who led us a weary journey over&#13;
hedges &amp; (diff symbol) ditches &amp; (diff symbol) durra fields &amp; (diff symbol) at last we arrived where&#13;
we had left the boat and it was gone - "What shall we do"&#13;
We go to the little mud village &amp; (diff symbol) try in vain to wake&#13;
up the head man - at last a gaffir unlocks the&#13;
Police Station - furnishes us with a light and 3 -&#13;
blankets &amp; (diff symbol) sleeping outside the door we go to bed.&#13;
I awake at 3 am. Dowie at 5.&#13;
  5.30 the gaffir gets his daughter to put our large bag&#13;
of bread etc on her head - he takes the small packages of canvass (sic)&#13;
&amp; (diff symbol) we trot to the station an hour too early.&#13;
3 eggs some oranges &amp; (diff symbol) native bread has been our food.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Dec 18   We go up to Deirout to chance finding the *26 continued (inserted left margin horizontally one line of text)&#13;
boat and succeed finally&#13;
  What the ladies have to say I hear but think&#13;
they have written somewhere - Certainly they must have&#13;
been worried - I knew nothings about moving the&#13;
boat untill after we were in the train for Assuit&#13;
except that Dowie said that if "there was a good&#13;
wind the Capt would move the boat father up to&#13;
a better place &amp; (diff symbol) nearer the Station and that he&#13;
would leave word at the telegraph office&#13;
Wednesday Dec 19 - Deirout (strikethrough) - Umm El Ousal *27 no crew 15 (strikethrough 5)(insert 8 over the 5)18 miles Umm el Ousel wind fair (inserted in left margin horizontally five lines)&#13;
  It seems that the wind being good the Reis&#13;
took the liberty without cousaltation (sic) to start &#13;
the boat with practically no crew - left no word&#13;
at the station - but was in hopes to reach Deirout&#13;
in time to telegraph us at Assiut of the change - &#13;
but unfortunately he got on a sand bar just&#13;
before reacing (sic) the shore - which when reached we&#13;
rushed up to the RR Station in hopes to get us &#13;
out of the Cars there - but he was too late - &#13;
a miscalculation and misadventure.  11.15 am we start from *here (inserted under the line)&#13;
and make about 18 miles&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Thursday Dec. 20   We left Umm El Ousel *17 miles (strikethrough)(insert above) 28th day bad part of day for crew 2, Reis 1 man &amp; (diff symbol) boy rest of day 2 Reis 4 men &amp; (diff symbol) boy wind fairly good but had to track (inserted in left margin horizontally seven lines)&#13;
at 6.30 fair but light wind - we found very&#13;
bad sailing - the course was nearly a double (underlined) letter&#13;
S. at about 11 a.m. just at the last of bad&#13;
tracking place we found Eufordi with two sailors&#13;
that he had got at Assuit.&#13;
  Yesterday while Dowie and the Gov. was away &amp; (diff symbol) the&#13;
vessel was sailing it got aground just before&#13;
reaching Deirout - all the women on board&#13;
helped work - they hauled up the anchor&#13;
themselves, tearing &amp; (diff symbol) wetting their clothes but succeeded&#13;
To day the Capt &amp; (diff symbol) Yuseff with Dowie &amp; (diff symbol) Abdulachman&#13;
towed the boat a long way while the Gov &amp; (diff symbol) Mahomet&#13;
&amp; (diff symbol) the cook pulled when needed - we all have worked&#13;
our passage so far - &#13;
  We landed about 1/2 mile below the dam at Assuit&#13;
at dusk - The Dahabieyah Dongola belonging to&#13;
an Austrian prince came up behind us&#13;
After dinner the Gov. changed his shirt &amp; (diff symbol) costume&#13;
and with Dowie &amp; (diff symbol) a visiting card made him a call&#13;
and was nicely received - He was 12 days from Cairo&#13;
He offered any help he had &amp; (diff symbol) even offered to loan me money.&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
Friday Dec 21   Early this a.m. all hands *29th day 2 Reis 2 men 2 " went day just below Assuit light fair wind (inserted in left margin horizontally five lines)&#13;
took hold and we made a start with the&#13;
small sail only finally we reached the&#13;
draw of the bridge the big sail being let loose as&#13;
the wind was failing - we went through all&#13;
night and there on the bank was Joe who&#13;
had been chasing us down the river for two&#13;
days - we were all very (underlined) glad to see him - &#13;
We moored at the bank some way above&#13;
the bridge.  The two sailors then left us - the&#13;
money question being the matter - as is usual.&#13;
  P.M. Mother &amp; (diff symbol) I went to find the am. consul&#13;
to have him witness the deed Aunty sent&#13;
us - He had just gone to Cairo for two&#13;
weeks - He is called the richest man in &#13;
these parts and lives in a fine house&#13;
beautifully furnished &amp; (diff symbol) laid out gardens&#13;
His brother &amp; (diff symbol) wife who both spoke excellent&#13;
English entertained us with coffee cigarettes&#13;
&amp; (diff symbol) flowers &amp; (diff symbol) wanted to take their carriage to&#13;
give us a drive about the town which we&#13;
&#13;
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29th (strikethrough 9)(insert 1 written over 9) 21st were obliged to decline - we may *29th day continued Assuit (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)&#13;
see them in Luxor later as they expect to go there - very nice about helping us to get men&#13;
I did not trust the man here to put&#13;
spring in my watch - so bought a clock as&#13;
Xma present for boats accommodation&#13;
and Doe gets his gold watch as promised.&#13;
Telegraphed owner of boat this reply&#13;
if Capt must get men - Capt Cook left.&#13;
[empty line]&#13;
Dec (graphic - star) 22 *Saturday (insert above) No men - telegraphed *early (inserted above line) to *30th day 2 Reis boy (strikethrough) &amp; (diff symbol) two men At Assuit fair wind P.M. light a.m. (inserted horizontally in left margin five lines)&#13;
owner that matter was serious and for&#13;
him to come up at once - We await his&#13;
reply - Its too bad that our Consul is &#13;
absent just at this time.  We have given&#13;
owner time to get here at about noon.  It seems that &#13;
by assistance of Reis of Am. Consul he had obtained&#13;
six men but as he did not tell of we supposed it was &#13;
at last night when he said he had no (underlined) men - so we telegraphed&#13;
great disturbance in the boat - *Capts. (insert) Cook left - &#13;
Owner telegraphed - "Why we wanted him - hope it has&#13;
been arranged - The Capt. ought (underlined) to have told us&#13;
&#13;
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Dec. 22 Saturday   Capt sent to owner for money *Dec 22 contd still to fair wind (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)&#13;
by telegraph but owner said it would come by post&#13;
new crew will not come aboard untill the money &#13;
comes - bread making over the river&#13;
Capts. cook was down with his mother who wanted&#13;
him to go with us - he refuses &amp; (diff symbol) goes off - "impetuious".&#13;
&#13;
Sunday Dec. 23   Day opens clear with brisk *Assuit 31st day good wind 2 Reis &amp; (diff symbol) 2 men 2 " &amp; (diff symbol)  8 " (inserted in left margin horizontally five lines)&#13;
north wind which held through the night&#13;
with our good moon and this wind we&#13;
could &amp; (diff symbol)  probably would have put in a &#13;
good run if the Capt - could have had&#13;
his way about the money from Cairo.&#13;
10.30 *New (inserted at start of line) Crew of 6 men came aboard with&#13;
bread - Capts. cook refused to go.&#13;
And off we go, the Austrian Baron "Dongola" in&#13;
hot pursuit but I venture the statement that we are&#13;
to be neighbors to night. But with only one&#13;
sail up - they could not go slow enough and soon &#13;
passed us bowing &amp; (diff symbol) saluting.  Make about 4 miles &#13;
an hour by a bee line.  6 o'clk off Geou - 7 o'clk aground&#13;
&#13;
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Dec. 23rd At about 9. P.M. after heavy and laborious *31st day. Cont. 29 miles from Assuit (inserted horizontally in left margin four lines)&#13;
pulling &amp; (diff symbol) poleing we got into deeper water when&#13;
our line broke and we thought our anchor gone&#13;
but by skillful management it was secured - one&#13;
of the men stripped and went under for it.&#13;
At 11, I retired - the boat under sail - at 2&#13;
was awakened by the mens cries, while poleing&#13;
2.30 off again - have just passed what I&#13;
suppose is the Dongola tied up at the bank.&#13;
&#13;
Monday Dec. 24   6 a.m. finds us quite near *32nd day 6 am 17 miles by night (inserted horizontally in left margin four lines)&#13;
Maragha - stuck but not bad, this makes the&#13;
fourth time last night.&#13;
12.15 The Dongola passed us just above&#13;
Sohag amidst great excitement - a native&#13;
boat getting in both of our ways.&#13;
We kept on until 2 a.m. with a failing &#13;
wind a (sic) reached within four miles of Nag Hamadi&#13;
 *(x across remainder of page)&#13;
&#13;
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Tuesday Dec. 25   Christmas day opens with no *33rd day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)&#13;
wind to speak of - we got some milk and&#13;
begin to pole *8 a.m. (inserted slightly above line) The children had their stockings&#13;
hung and when dressed in their white clothes they&#13;
came out in great excitement to see what Santa&#13;
Claus had left.  They said "where are the other presents&#13;
that he had" but on the whole they were very well &#13;
satisfied and enjoyed passing to the crew candy&#13;
cigarettes etc to the crew who passed the usual thanks&#13;
  With calm and puffs of wind we kept&#13;
in motion most of the day, we had&#13;
an exciting time colliding with a&#13;
native boat which tried to cross our&#13;
bow.  The native shouts required wind&#13;
enough to have filed our sails if properly&#13;
directed.&#13;
  We reached the R.R. bridge at&#13;
Nagh Hamandi early in the night&#13;
 *(x across remainder of page)&#13;
 &#13;
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Wednesday Dec 26th   Day opens with light *34th day Nagh Hamadi (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)&#13;
south wind (our same old friend who&#13;
hates to leave us) We have through the&#13;
bridge at 8 a.m. &amp; (diff symbol) moor just below the&#13;
Dongola.  The Baron &amp; (diff symbol) his Sect make us &#13;
a call before we are hardly moored &amp; (diff symbol) invite&#13;
us to a walk &amp; (diff symbol) to go aboard his boat.&#13;
  She is a fine one and very comfortable&#13;
but would not be large enough for us.&#13;
&#13;
Thursday Dec. 27   Day opens quiet. *35th day Nagh Hamadi (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)&#13;
The Baron took a tug this am at 6 - &amp; (diff symbol) left.&#13;
We priced a tug to Luxor 15 L (pound) and 10 L (pound) to Kennea and&#13;
we told them to go to - --(combined - but longer length making one line) The wind at night fall&#13;
was Westerly and we had hopes but it did not&#13;
fill the bill so Joe takes the train at 8.52 for&#13;
Luxor and we remain to wait for wind.&#13;
 &#13;
Friday Dec 28 Day opens light wind S.E. - at 8 o'clk *36th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)&#13;
men took rope &amp; (diff symbol) tracked until about 10.30 - Our old&#13;
friend Alobi passed us in a tug.  He is Captain now and&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
is employed at Esna at the building of the new R.R *36th day Contd (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)&#13;
bridge there.   At 1. oclk a gentle breeze&#13;
struck in from the North and "we sailed"&#13;
We reached and went around the bad&#13;
water.  A more serious quarrel occurred&#13;
between the two Reis's - I pity our Reis he&#13;
is not having a very good time and so far&#13;
until this time has kept his temper very well.&#13;
We plugged along with a light wind and about&#13;
dark Yusseff was sent ashore to buy milk as the&#13;
Reis said that if we had a good wind he did not&#13;
wish to delay in the morning.  We drifted some&#13;
way beyond the small village and began to &#13;
think that something had happened to him - &#13;
the sailors said so and that it was a bad town.&#13;
But we sent the boat ashore and after a time&#13;
he appeared.  Not long after in trying to get&#13;
beyond a point of land with light wind the&#13;
current carried us off a back and we collided&#13;
with a native freight boat which was very close&#13;
under our stern - we both met - turned around&#13;
&#13;
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&#13;
with our sails aback - parted and met again *36 contd near Fan (inserted horizontally in left margin two lines)&#13;
and the stern outrigger of the ghagger went clear &#13;
though our "cook shop" scaring its boss so much as&#13;
all hands. We then tied up for repairs at writing 8. P.M.&#13;
There seems to be a large village across the&#13;
river with perhaps 100 dogs and 5 children to each one&#13;
all barking and shrieking - having a fantasiea &#13;
perfect bealance (sic).  On the whole an exciting day.&#13;
 &#13;
Saturday Dec. 29   This day opens fine with a *37th day (inserted horizontally in left margin one line)&#13;
light Westerly wind and as far as it goes is good&#13;
for us - By poleing tracking &amp; (diff symbol) the wind we make&#13;
a mile or so and at 10 o'clk we are again fast&#13;
to the mud on the opposite bank and by good&#13;
luck avoided running into any boats but the banks&#13;
suffered some.  At 9 P.M. we are sailing along&#13;
finely and approaching Kenna and hope to make a &#13;
good run tonight.  So far only 3 Dahabieyahs have passed&#13;
us up 2 with steam and 2 down one with steam.&#13;
Where is Prof Syce? - We sailed all night with&#13;
a light wind and at 6.30 anchored opposite Ballas&#13;
and Yuseff went ashore for milk.&#13;
&#13;
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Sunday Dec. 30   Day opens fine but with a light *38th day at Ballas in A.M. Koos P.M. (inserted horizontally in left margin four lines)&#13;
wind which we hope will strengthen as the day goes on.&#13;
8.30 we start slowly - and by sailing - poleing and&#13;
tracking with a failing wind at 3.30 we reach&#13;
Koos where we expect to spend the night unless&#13;
a good wind comes up, in which case we will&#13;
start.  Corinna Doe I and 3 men took a long&#13;
walk to the station and wired Joe of our position.&#13;
 &#13;
Monday Dec. 31st   This day opens still with *39th day Koos Till 6.15 P.M. (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)&#13;
no wind only a little air from the East at dawn.&#13;
9 o'clk we take to the rope &amp; (diff symbol) pull for an hour or so and then&#13;
stop at another mud bank just around a corner.&#13;
6.15 a huffey West wind put in and we started off &#13;
with great delight in hopes of reaching Luxor this year.&#13;
Dowie has festooned the upper deck with Suset branches&#13;
&amp; (diff symbol) palm leaves so it looks like a German beer garden&#13;
Wind failing we came to achor (sic) at 8.30 - in hopes. - &#13;
 &#13;
Tuesday Jan 1. 1907 Light Easterly wind 8 am started - sailed *40th day between Koos &amp; (diff symbol) Kigam (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)&#13;
&amp; (diff symbol) poled &amp; (diff symbol) tracked 10.30 got into a "hook" of course&#13;
&#13;
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Tues. Jan 1, 1907 Contd and had to put back *40th day Contd (inserted horizontally left margin two lines)&#13;
Backing and filling all day and trying to get&#13;
over all the hooks in the river, with occasional&#13;
puffs of wind from the west at 6 o'clk we are tied&#13;
up temporally (sic) at the shore in sight of Luxor and&#13;
by guess .4 miles distant - no milk, whiskey, chicken&#13;
or any thing else provided for dinner and we&#13;
are all pretty huffey and generally disgreantled (sic). &#13;
Our upper deck is all festooned for the day and it &#13;
will be a past member when we get up.&#13;
After the moon arose we had an East wind and&#13;
tried it again but the wind soon died out and&#13;
we only crossed the river and came to anchor&#13;
We have done our d-st but can't fetch it&#13;
 &#13;
Wednesday Jan 2 Day opens, little air Southerly *41st day 2 Miles North Koraa Luxor (inserted horizontally in left margin three lines)&#13;
we commence to track about 8 a.m - all hands&#13;
except Eufordy who has gone to Luxor for bread for &#13;
crew &amp; (diff symbol) I guess tobacco for Reis.&#13;
About 11 a.m. Joe &amp; (diff symbol) Eufordi came aboard and&#13;
soon after we moored at Luxor &amp; (diff symbol) the voyage up is *finished (inserted below end of line).&#13;
Page Blank&#13;
I wrote Mr. Sherhoht Jan 7&#13;
Joe   Do   Feb 3 (strikethrough)(insert) Feb 16th&#13;
Notified Reis Feb 1 that we leave 26th for Cairo&#13;
Jan 3 commenced taking milk at Luxor&#13;
  " crew left Pumpelling came&#13;
  " Jeanette left for Alexandria&#13;
  " Donkeys of Hassan&#13;
" /1 Abdalla came &#13;
Feb. 2 2 men left only Reis left (last four words strikethrough)(insert) stopped work &amp; (diff symbol) away (finished insert) on board&#13;
  3 " Yusef &amp; (diff symbol) Nefardi left boat for good&#13;
  4 " only Capt.&#13;
  5 Capt &amp; (diff symbol) 1 man&#13;
  6 do do &#13;
Thursday 7 do do &#13;
  8 2 men came PM&#13;
 &#13;
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  Section: The Return&#13;
 &#13;
Tuesday Feb. 26   At 2.00 (strikethrough)(insert 3 over 0)2.30 we cast off and *1st day to Keass 25 miles (inserted horizontally left margin 3 lines of text)&#13;
with a light South wind we started, leaving&#13;
Joe - some visitors and the rabbitts disconsolate&#13;
behind us.  A gaffir called *and (insert above line) for watching &#13;
the boat asked for backsheef (sic) but as it was the&#13;
first time I had seen him I did not respond to&#13;
his desires - Jeanette left us this A.M. early thanks be (underlined).&#13;
  As the Reis wishes to stay a day at Nag Hamadi&#13;
to make bread he rowed till about 11 P.M. making&#13;
about 25 miles and put up opposite Kuss&#13;
 &#13;
Wednesday Feb. 27   Day opens still and warm *2nd day to Dishner (inserted horizontally left margin 2 lines of text)&#13;
  As we overtook him last night he passed us&#13;
just as we started *about (inserted above line) 8 o'clk no milk to be had.&#13;
After rowing an hour or so a good South wind came&#13;
up and we sailed to Kauna (12 o'clk) when wind left us.&#13;
6 P.M. we passed Dishner - Sailors sent for milk.&#13;
7-30 we tied up at bank a mile or so below.&#13;
 &#13;
Thursday Feb. 28 Left the shore at 6 1/4 - no wind. *3rd day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
11 o'clk at Naghamadi.&#13;
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Friday Feb 29 (strikethrough)(insert) March 1   Left. Nag Hamadi at 6.15 am.  *4th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
Crew brought the bread aboard and with a&#13;
gentle South wind we wind our way.&#13;
No answer to tel. to Mr. Weigall.&#13;
12.30 a few (inserted 3 and then strikethrough) miles South of Balliana a Strong&#13;
North wind took us to the bank where we&#13;
now are and remain over night&#13;
 &#13;
Saturday Feb 30 (strikethrough) (insert) March 2   Opens fair light North wind *5th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
  Cast off at 6.45 &amp; (diff symbol) proceeded across the&#13;
river where a strong gust of wind put us ashore&#13;
after much noise we got off and not being able to go&#13;
on we came to anchor at 8 o'clk, where we are &#13;
2.53 Dowie &amp; (diff symbol) I walked over to Abou Coucha?&#13;
and took train to Balliana - telegraphed to&#13;
Joe etc got answer and returned to above&#13;
place where by orders left, if they could the&#13;
boat was to find us, it was well as we gained&#13;
a few miles and saved my old bones a long &#13;
and bad walk - thanks be - &#13;
&#13;
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Sunday March 3   Day opens quiet and we *6th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
take the oars at 6 a.m. in two hours we reach&#13;
Balliana and proceed.  9 o'clk a strong North &#13;
wind comes up and to avoid going ashore on the&#13;
wrong side of the river - as usual - we come to anchor&#13;
in mid-stream a mile or two below Baliana (sic).&#13;
  Quite a sea came up and the Reis upsail and&#13;
made for the other side of the river - 1st the main sheet&#13;
broke - then the felucca went adrift then the shore&#13;
line parted all which seemed natural - &#13;
  I know of one (underlined) good rope on this craft&#13;
 &#13;
Monday March 4   Day opens quiet - at 5 am *7th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
We started and by good luck reached&#13;
Girga just before the strong North wind&#13;
came up at 10 o'clk.  We then all went&#13;
to the Station and met Joe and Mrs. &#13;
McDonald who is to be our guest to&#13;
Cairo.  After Lunch Corinna Mrs. McDonald&#13;
Dowie 4 sailors &amp; (diff symbol) myself went across the river&#13;
and up the hill to see some old tombs.&#13;
*Well I am glad I went (inserted below last line of text)&#13;
&#13;
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Tuesday March 5 -   Fair day with light North *8th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
wind - We started about 5 a.m. and after&#13;
a good but uneventful day we made 27 *27 (inserted above numerals in text) miles&#13;
and moored at Sohag just above Mr. Davis!&#13;
The men worked so well that we gave them the&#13;
money to buy a sheep - hoping that they will be&#13;
strengthened for more exertions.&#13;
 &#13;
Wednesday March 6   The (underlined) Sheep arrived.  *9th day Je(circumflex accent)ma (inserted horizontally left margin 2 lines of text)&#13;
  This day opens quiet - we started about 6&#13;
by 9 o'clk a South wind helped us along&#13;
The Bedouin started before us and keeps&#13;
just ahead perhaps a mile.&#13;
  This PM the wind failed us but by hard rowing&#13;
at moored on the West bank about 33 miles&#13;
from Sohag. One of our sailors took a bad cold&#13;
at Girga and has been ill ever since.  We&#13;
must send him home at Assiut if he gets no&#13;
better.  Asked for brandy which is unusual&#13;
  &#13;
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Thursday March 7   Day opens quiet - we *10th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
start about 6 a.m. Mr. Davis earlier and&#13;
having reached a place last night where the&#13;
water was swifter he has gained upon us.&#13;
The German Baron de Force(underlined)(?) Dahabeiyah Dongola&#13;
passed us down towed by A.A. Barge Str Arab.&#13;
  We stopped a while (by wind) at a small Arab town&#13;
Baru Karus and then ridged (sic) out &amp; (diff symbol) drifted for a mile and&#13;
then put up at noon for good.  Strong North wind.&#13;
Our sailor man seems to be better.&#13;
 &#13;
Friday March 8   Day opens light wind from North *11th Day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
We start rowing about 5.30 - blown ashore - get off&#13;
bang along - about 10 Dowie goes ashore to walk&#13;
to Abou Tig for bread - then we get a bad&#13;
Stuck (underlined) - pull - have - haley haley - ropes and&#13;
blocks break - finally get off and drift towards&#13;
A.T. (graphic) then on until 8 30 we passed Mr. Davis's boat&#13;
and moored on the opposite side of river and about&#13;
7 miles from Assuit -&#13;
 &#13;
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Saturday March 9   Day opens fair - we start *12th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
just after Mr. Davis at 6 30 four and arrive at&#13;
Assuit about 10 - pay visit to Am. Conesul (sic) - execute&#13;
papers and take carriages to the bazarr (sic) where we  &#13;
bought several things and more on coming back&#13;
to the boat.  The Reis concludes to go home to&#13;
Cairo as his eyes are in very bad shape and he&#13;
needs immediate treatment *He does not go (inserted above the line) - We go through the&#13;
barrage at 4 oclk proceed a few miles&#13;
 &#13;
Sunday March 10   Start about 6 - no wind - *13th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
about 8 (next numeral written over)(insert) 9 - wind from South which freshens to&#13;
Strong which bowled us along to 3 or 4 miles&#13;
below Moufalut where a sharp turn in the&#13;
river makes the wind a side wind and we&#13;
moor *10:30 (inserted above line).  We (underlined) think it poor judgment as by the&#13;
rope and pushing off from the shore we ought&#13;
to fairly easy get around the point of perhaps&#13;
a mile then find a good wind to Deirout.&#13;
11.45 we work across the river - the rope breaks before we get&#13;
away from bank - old boat sound on bottom I think but leaky&#13;
on top - ropes &amp; (diff symbol) blocks old and rotten. 1 30 start rowing the *wind having abated (inserted below line).&#13;
&#13;
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Sunday Mch 10 *Contd (inserted above line) we get round point &amp; (diff symbol) wind *13th Contd (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
hauling to West we are forced to anchor in Mid Stream&#13;
4 o'clk we row to &amp; (diff symbol) make fast to Bank in a gale.&#13;
 &#13;
Monday Mch 11 Start at 7 drift a mile wind strong (stop 9 erased at end of line - or written over pencil with pen as appears in multiple places throughout this paragraph) *14th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
Stop at 9 and wait till 1 15 row till 6 not a long &#13;
trip in distance.&#13;
 &#13;
Tuesday Mch 12   Start at 6 quiet - rowed down *15th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
past Deir Moies and at 12 o'clk stuck when quite&#13;
near the landing at Lil Amarna, soon after get&#13;
off - eat open lunch and all but mother take donkeys&#13;
minus stirrups &amp; (diff symbol) bridles and hardly any saddles and visit&#13;
the North tombs on returning visit the Palace which&#13;
being near the boat Mother and Dowie visited - had a &#13;
call from the Head Man who wanted the usual&#13;
Medicine - &#13;
 &#13;
Wednesday March 13 Start at 6 - drifting Joe &amp; (diff symbol) Dowie *16th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
*left at Malari for train (inserted between lines)&#13;
arrived at Rhoda 2 PM went to station &amp; (diff symbol) saw Joe &amp; (diff symbol) Mrs. W&#13;
Go-By started on at 4 - men got a sheep arrive at&#13;
Beni Hassan at 7 25 at upper landing&#13;
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Thursday March 14   Start at 6 get early *17th day Beni Hassan Samalut (inserted horizontally left margin 3 lines of text)&#13;
breakfast.  Mother kindly stays with kids the rest&#13;
take donkeys minus bridles &amp; (diff symbol) stirrups &amp; (diff symbol) with the old Sheik&#13;
for guard - visit the N. tombs &amp; (diff symbol) Rock Temple return to&#13;
boat &amp; (diff symbol) start at 10 30 with gentle air from the South&#13;
Arrive at Minea about 2 15 and found Joe &#13;
&amp; (diff symbol)  Mrs. W. left Miss McDonald - lost 2 hours of&#13;
good wind &amp; (diff symbol) proceeded to Samalut for the night&#13;
 &#13;
Friday Mch 15   Start at 6 - rowing - about * 18th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
9 run aground - get off and the wind blows&#13;
us ashore where we remain all day watching&#13;
native boats - tugs &amp; (diff symbol) dahabieyh, get stuck &amp; (diff symbol) off.&#13;
We are near the Convent of Gebel el-Ter (accent e)&#13;
[empty line] &#13;
Saturday Mch 16 Day opens fair - start early *19th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
Soon after a gentle breeze from the South&#13;
11 30 blown ashore near (18th day up) Coptic church place&#13;
of &amp; (diff symbol) on again - 4 30 another start Joe buys 2 water jars&#13;
&#13;
 &#13;
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Sunday March 17   Day opens still - we *20th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
make an early start rowing soon a fine&#13;
South wind but just below Farchen we get&#13;
aground with a lot of natives - ropes break - we&#13;
pull &amp; (diff symbol) hawl (sic) for about 3 hours finally at 1 we get&#13;
off &amp; (diff symbol) with a fair wind seek for other shoals etc at 2&#13;
Abd (strikethrough)(insert) We stop at Bibba for rest and to enquire (sic) the way&#13;
At 4 we start again &amp; (diff symbol) pass many "stuck boats" and haul&#13;
up at 7 a few miles above Beni Souif&#13;
 &#13;
Monday Mch 18 Day opens fair - rowing *21st day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
At opp Beni Souiff ran aground - looked&#13;
serious for a while but we got off and a &#13;
fair wind coming up we made good progress&#13;
until 11 15 the wind forced us ashore on E. bank&#13;
where we remained till 5 15 the wind seemed fair&#13;
but the Reis was afraid (?) to go on before&#13;
 &#13;
Tuesday Mch 19   Day opens quiet - start 6 - *22rd (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
Meet Str   with Mrs. Gayley &amp; (diff symbol) family with letter introduce&#13;
them from Mr. McVey - mutual calls.  At 3 30 we moored at place &#13;
we left on 15th day up &#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
&#13;
Wednesday Mch 20   Started early - went *23rd day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
out to middle of the river and then put&#13;
back - strong North gale all day.&#13;
 &#13;
Thursday Mch 21   Started about 4 15 a.m. *24 night - at at (sic) Ayatt (inserted left margin 3 lines of text)&#13;
being out of bread the crew are trying to get&#13;
to some town where it can be procured.&#13;
9 o'clk went ashore after making 3 or 4 miles waited hour or so&#13;
put out into the stream &amp; (diff symbol) then went back - gained 10 ft. or so.&#13;
Two men went to next town in hopes of getting bread after&#13;
getting 50 P.T. out of us.  At 4 PM we start &amp; (diff symbol) go till 7.30&#13;
 &#13;
Friday Mch 22   Day opens still - start at 6 *25th day (inserted horizontally left margin 1 line of text)&#13;
by 7 Light wind from South 11 30 put Joe ashore at &#13;
Bedrasheen - at 3 30 we anchor in front of the&#13;
draw of the new bridge at Cairo which they say does&#13;
not open until 10 tomorrow.  111 minutes after this&#13;
writing the draw opened - we went through&#13;
and moored a mile s. of our old place but&#13;
are promised a better place tomorrow and&#13;
the Voyage (graphic) ends at 4.20 --------(single line)&#13;
&#13;
Page Blank:&#13;
&#13;
  Section: New Crew						     	Cook&#13;
Hasseen *(Sopadan Stay-went)(inserted at end of line)	 	Ali  	Tufik&#13;
Seliman							 	Fara (strikethrough)&#13;
Hassan							 	Faragala (s)&#13;
Halleel 						 	Mahomet stay went&#13;
							 	Abdu Fadil stay&#13;
							 	Aburiah? (each letter individually underlined) (this name and name above marked together with {})	&#13;
Abdu en Niem	 					 	Sad ed deen&#13;
 &#13;
1st Reis Mahomet Enoye &#13;
2nd Reis Hassen Ayne&#13;
[empty line] &#13;
(Horizontal line across page)&#13;
  Section: Old Crew&#13;
1st Reis Mahomet Enoye&#13;
2nd " Ausman&#13;
Abrahim	 	Hassan - Yellow Turban&#13;
Saide	 	Hassan - One Eye Red T.&#13;
Yuseff	 	Mahomet - tall&#13;
Eufardi	 	Mahomet - dark&#13;
Abdelard  	Toofeek cook &#13;
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              <text>Bedreschein - Dec. 2d. 1907 This little record of travel should have begun a month ago - as we sailed from New York just a month ago - the 2d of Nov. on the Freiderick (sic) der Grosse. We had a rough unpleasant passage - there was no day on which I could have written with comfort. It was the worst passage I ever made. On some days, the best thing was to stay in bed - and that was a difficult thing to do. A friend of ours was thrown from his berth, and dislocated his shoulder - several accidents occurred - sprains etc. Reached Naples finally the morning of the 15th. Dr. Baldwin of Rome, and Mrs. Peck of Milwaukie, were on the boat, and added much to the pleasure of the voyage - coming when possible to my sitting room for tea. We knew that Nettie and Carrie would be waiting for us at Naples, and we hoped to have at least a night and day with Nettie at the Grand Hotel. But we were so belated that we had only time to drive to the hotel and get them, and drive back to the dock - and that was so disappointing. David Costantini was there also - and Mrs. Baldwin who had come from Rome to meet her husband - the voyage across the Mediterranean was as charming as the other was horrid. We arrived at Alexandria at 8 o’clock on Monday the 18th, stopped at the New Khedivial Hotel long enough to have a lunch put up for us, then paid a visit to the Museum (our first) though it is hardly worth a visit, and were off for Cairo at noon - and found our old rooms ready for us, and were eating dinner on the evening of the 16th day from N.Y. A very good record. We got away from Cairo today - having settled ourselves on the Beduin the 1st. We tried to get through the bridge yesterday - but there was such a crowd of gyassas at the draw, that we waited for most of them, dreading the dangers of that shouting, reckless, unmanageable crowd - but the Bridge time was up before they had all passed, and the draw was shut in our faces. We tied up at the Kasr el Nil barracks, and waited for today. We were so near when the draw was opened at 1 o’clock that we started as soon as the down boats had got through - but there was a good wind, and the reckless gyassas in spite of orders and shrieks of the bridge officers crowded upon us in full sail - and it was a very nasty twenty minutes we had - such noise, such frantic efforts. One of them crashed her bow into us, fortunately broke her bow sprit, and left her anchor embedded in the landing stage, or she would have ripped our side open. She did break one of the window frames, but luckily spared the glass, knocked much of our nice new paint off us etc. One of our men took out the window frame, and we left him in Cairo, to take it to the carpenters and painters. He rejoined us at Tourah by rail and says the carpenters and painters will reach Bedreshein tomorrow at 8 o’clock. As Theo and Carrie are to make a visit to Sakkarah we will not be detained. &#13;
     We saw Capt. Trefusis and his sweet sister Evelyn who is out with him this winter. They lunched with us several times, and she came in to stay one night (they are staying at Helouan) and go with Carrie early the next morning to see the ceremony of the Kishwa. He is now in a large business at Cairo. We also made the acquaintance of Lord Denbigh’s eldest son, Viscount Fielding. He is in the Coldstream Guards, who have lately been sent out here. He is a nice young fellow simple and natural. Mrs. Peck of Milwaukie was at Shepheards most of the time we were there, and we saw much of her. Cairo, and the whole of Egypt is now in serious financial straits, following the absurd speculative craze of the last 2 years. Prices are incredibly high. </text>
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 3rd. I have had a busy day settling - while Theo and Carrie went to Sakkarah. A lovely day. The Ramesis (sic) was lying by us all day - with a handful of passengers - but went off at 6 o’clock. The carpenter and painter have been here all day repairing damages. </text>
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              <text>Wednesday, Dec. 4. 41 miles. We got away from Bedraschein at 7 o’clock this morning - and have had a lovely day - river like glass, both of our sails out much of the time. The river is enormously broad about here. When I went on deck about 4 o’clock, I found a scene of ravishing beauty - the broad smooth river, the distant cliffs and Mts. and desert, with the heliotrope shadows, and the soft brilliant sun. It was too entrancing. We had tea on deck - and are now lying opposite Wasta. </text>
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              <text>Thursday, Dec. 5th. 29 miles. 	A quiet uneventful day - though the tug went on the sand once for a few minutes. It is a slow heavy tug, but was the only one Cook had unoccupied. We are about a mile above Ribbeh. &#13;
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              <text>Friday, Dec. 6th. 25 miles. 	Our tug, Anubis by name, went on the sand soon after nine this morning, and got off at 10:25. The river is so very broad here, that it is difficult to find the channel. The gyassas seemed to be having as much trouble as we had. Such a wonderful sunset - the sky, crimson pink with one long narrow cloud near the horizon, above which shone Venus, quite resplendent, and the new moon, the veriest silver thread of a little crescent, just below the cloud. &#13;
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              <text>Saturday, Dec. 7. 44 miles. 	Made an early start - and tied up at 5:30 within 3 miles of Minia. Lovely day, and perfect evening. &#13;
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              <text>Second Sunday in Advent. Dec. 8th. 28-1/2 miles. 	A very heavy fog on the river this morning delayed our starting until 9:25 - spent about 2 hours at Minia waiting for mail and express parcels - a good sailing day - tied up at Rodah about 6 o’clock. &#13;
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              <text>Monday. Dec. 9th. 41-1/2 miles. Started at 6 o’clock - a cloudy day - and cold wind. Passed Mellawi, Hadji Kandel, and the Gebel Abu Feda and pulled up opposite Menfalout at 6 o’clock. We missed our channel this afternoon and had to go back to find it. It was a wonderful sight passing the Gebel. In all the years I have been on the Nile, I have not see such a transcendently beautiful sunset - and the colour reflected from the rocks made a great effect. &#13;
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 10. Asyût.  8 miles. 	Arrived at 1 o’clock having had the tug one hour on the sand. Theo dismissed the tug at 2 o’clock and we sailed at 3:30 - quite a good wind until 6 p.m. at which hour we tied up for the night, 8 miles above Asyut. It seemed very good to get rid of the tug. They are only tolerable to make speed, and this one couldn’t do it. Last year the Thothmes took us in 10 days to Luxor. This year the Anubis took 9 days to go to Asyût. &#13;
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              <text>Wednesday, Dec. 11th. 19 miles. 	We had no wind until noon - but a very good one until 5:40 when we tied up and with the towing we did before noon we made our 19 miles - lovely and warm. &#13;
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              <text>Thursday, Dec. 12. Sohag.  41-1/2 miles. Started at 7 - the wind freshened finely at 8 o’clock and we came splendidly on until within a mile of Sohag about 7 o’clock we struck the sand sharply - and were there 3/4 of an hour. Earlier in the afternoon we came near having a serious experience, - just as we approached the landing stage at Tahta which was crowded with gyassas and people, the wind shifted, and at that moment a gyassa, crowded with people, pushed out before our prow. We could give her no room - in spite of the yells and cries of our men she came on - and disaster seemed certain for if we had struck her we would have capsized here (sic - her?)and gone over her. It is impossible to say why this kind of thing occurs so often - it is one of the greatest dangers on the Nile. A delightful day. </text>
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              <text>Friday, Dec. 13. 28-1/2 miles. 	We waited at Sohag this morning until 9:30 for mail and provisions. Stopped within 4 miles of Balliana at 6 P.M. A good wind, a heavenly day. The nights too, with the young moon and the resplendent Venus, are wonderful. </text>
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              <text>Saturday, Dec. 14. 8-1/2 miles. 	A perfectly calm morning - but tracking and polling we made Balliana at 4:30 - no mail, so we were off at once, and with a light wind went on until 6 P.M.</text>
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              <text>Sunday - Third in Advent. Dec. 15. 6 miles. 	A perfectly windless day - bright and hot. Our men have worked like Trojans every minute of the day - polling and tracking, we think we have made 6 miles. </text>
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              <text>Monday, Dec. 16.  A repetition of yesterday - clear, hot, windless day. The men have been polling, tracking, pulling to anchor in the burning sun all day. Theo thinks we have made about 12 miles. We are now at Nagh Hamadi, waiting to pass the bridge tomorrow. </text>
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 17. 30 miles. Keneh. We got quietly through the bridge at 8 o’clock this morning. Found the Istar lying there, closed, and with flags down. Her men said that Mr. Sayce had gone to Cairo to see his dentist. We have had a splendid day and fine wind, and are now lying at Dendera, as Theo wants Carrie to see it tomorrow. </text>
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              <text>Wednesday, Dec. 18. 18 miles. 	We got off as soon as T. and C. came back from the Temple, about 11 o’clock - and with good wind came to within 4 miles of Nagadah. </text>
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              <text>Thursday, Dec. 19 21 miles. Started early, 6 o’clock, hoping to make Luxor tonight, but are tied up 4 miles below it. Very contrary and shifting wind - and cold - pulled to the anchor for hours. Beautiful night. </text>
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              <text>Friday, Dec. 20.  Luxor at last, arriving at 10:30 this morning. Came to our usual mooring place opposite the Castle - and soon the men were busy settling us. A huge mail waiting for us. Theo and Carrie went to Karnac this afternoon. &#13;
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              <text>Saturday, Dec. 21. I was at home all day. Theo and Carrie went to the Valley to look at the pit tomb Ayrton wrote about. They opened it - it proved only a pit with large vases - some sealed - some more or less broken. They report our little house finished, but too damp to live in at present - though Ayrton is living in one room. The Miriam, with tug Thothmes got in about 5 P.M. I received a note from Madame Maspero. They leave early tomorrow morning - bound for Aswân, and Halfa. One of the most wonderful moon rises this evening. </text>
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              <text>Fourth Sunday in Advent. Dec. 22nd. Theo and Carrie again to the Valley - but Carrie this time on a donkey - an exquisite day. I have had a beautiful quiet Sunday. This morning I was amused watching the loading of 2 camels with all our furnishings for our house in the Valley. One of the camels had the most delicious young camel with her - about a month old I should think, a lovely creature - so affectionate to its mother and so full of life and pranks. </text>
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              <text>Monday, Dec. 23rd. All went over to the town this morning - Carrie and I to see Miss Buchanan - then to Mrs. Weigalls and saw the new baby - and I delivered the cup I brought over for Corinna Smith. Then I went to see poor Mrs. Murch - who is most sad - but very brave. Then we encountered Theo on our way home - and stopped at the Winter Palace to see the Iddings. Mr. Iddings, the girl, Carrie and Theo went to Karnak at 4 o’clock and Mrs. Iddings came over and had tea with me. &#13;
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 24. I have been busy all day in the boat, first getting my pots of bulbs into order - then the Christmas presents for the men - in which Jones and Carrie helped - and so did not go out - the morning lovely, but cold high winds this afternoon. Theo and Carrie went at 3 o’clock to Medinet Habu. </text>
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              <text>Dec. 25. Wednesday. Christmas. A beautiful winters day - the distribution of presents to the men went off successfully. Mr. Ayrton came over to spend the night, and Mr. and Mrs. Iddings came to dine - and we had a concert from the men, which amused the Iddings very much. </text>
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              <text>Saturday, Dec. 28. A quiet day, mostly at home. Theo and Carrie at the Weigalls for tea, and afterwards met the Iddings at Karnac. </text>
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              <text>Jan. 1. 1908. We went over to the Valley this morning for the day - Theodore having invited Sir Malcolm McIlwraith and his wife to lunch with us. A sister was with them - a quiet, beautiful day. </text>
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